My buddy and myself installed the turbo in my 96 accord this weekend. went to crank it up and it's just horrible. It seems like whenver you hit the gas (boost or no boost) the motor just wants to quit. If you go easy on the throttle, you can get the motor to drive normally, but as soon as you give it a little more gas, it starts to die (the car will barely get to 0 psi). According to my air fuel ratio gauge, I am going severly lean as i approach boost (or even when I push the gas). I am using a 12:1 FMU and have tried reversing to connetions to it to see if that changes anything. I am also using a missing link MAP bypass. Anyone else ever had a similar problem? Thanks for any help.

hey....good luck with that.. youve given us so little to work with. if you have the missing link or the fmu hooked up wrong your car is going to run horribly. let me start with this

- turbo
a great turbo to get is a second generation mitsubishi eclipse turbo/ T3-T4 garret/airresearch

-wastegate
turbonetics deltagate with a 7psi spring

-manifold
can be purchased or custom made at the shop. a simple log style manifold can work very well and is the cheapest. a tubular manifold is more efficient and costs a little more

-intercooler
can also be taken off a mits eclipse but a slightly larger front mount intercooler would work best.

-blow off valve
hks or other quality brand

-boost dependant FMU (fuel pressure regulator)
vortech FMU

-manifold pressure bleeder
synapse missing link

-high volume fuel pump
walbro 255lph




now up there is the fuel pump....did you put a good one in? i think this may be your biggest problem but i will go over some other things.

your map. if it is reading boost your car will misfire....is it? put a guage on the line leading to the map what does it say?

the fmu...you have to have this hooked up right and you should be running a vortech. this may sound stupid....but there are THREE lines that hook up to it. fuel in fuel out and BOOST. make sure that when the turbo starts to spool that there is boost in that line.

if there isnt enough fuel pressure in the line to support boost then your car is going to run bad.

I tried to swap the two fuel lines on the FMU (it is a vortech style). I think i had the fuel line going into the rail coming from the outlet on the fmu that is dead center on the bottom (not the one with the 90). I have the vacuum line connected and it is run straight from the manifold. I checked for vacuum, so I would assume boost would also get to it.

I tried to mess with the missing link. I made sure it was on there and made sure the check valve was functioning (it worked). I never threw a code for hi MAP reading either. The engine seems like it is really lacking on fuel, even before I'm getting boost. I think it's cutting out rather than misfiring, but I could be wrong. I have not replaced the fuel pump or injectors.

Bad FMU? Not enough fuel pressure (even at low RPM?)? Thanks for your help so far, lightshow!

well it sounds like your not getting enough fuel. i have heard of people using the stock injectors on cars making 400 hp so i dont think its that. but....even your stock fuel pump should be able to support 'some' boost. the fuel pump should be upgraded but i think the boost line your running to the fmu is not right or the fmu itself is not right. let us know how its going. another stupid thing though...make sure the fmu is hooked up to the fuel return line and not the line coming into the rail.

This is pretty random but make sure the seals for your MAP are good, if any air can get through there it wont throw a code. I found this out when changing my throttle body.

what no more posts? thats bull you should be up all dang night figuring out why your cars not ripping down the street.

Sorry bro, I know I should be up all night (and I was basically. How could I sleep with my car like this??!). Now wait a sec man. I know that I have the FMU coming hooked up to the incoming fuel line. I noticed a return line that ran from the factory installed fuel pressure regulator, but the FMU isn't hooked up to that. Dang man, I feel stupid as heck. Do you think this is the problem??

if the fmu is hooked up to the incoming line.........this is 100 percent the problem with your car. let me explain.

the fmu essencialy blocks the incoming fuel increasing the fuel pressure so that when the injector opens. more fuel comes out. if you put the fmu before the fuel rail.....it is going to stop the fuel from going to the injectors.



the fmu absolutely positively must be installed aft of the fuel rail AND the stock regulator. so that when it senses boost. it will increase the amount of fuel pressure in the rail. good luck your not dumb turbos are extremely difficult to install. let us know how it worked out.

Here's an update.

The FMU was the major problem. I put that where it should be and that fixed the fuel cut off problem. The manifold I had made for me was warped (like a bow), and was leaking mad on the sides. I machined some metal off and got it even and bolted back up. Time for a test drive.

The turbo spools up very nicely in 1st gear, resulting in a myself getting thrown back in my seat. I like that part! Shift to second (and other gears) and the turbo doesn't spool up as nice. I'm not sure if it's just no spinning (why would it matter gear to gear?) or that boost is leaking out. I also go very lean in second at WOT, so I am instinctively backing off the gas, which could be the cause of the lack of boost.

I noticed that the wastegate (hks style) and bov (raptor style) have 2 vacuum inlets. I am only using one on each (the tops ones). Should I hook up the other ports? Also, I do not have an inline fuel pump, which could cause the lean out I assume.

As soon as this stuff gets all working, I'm looking at one very mean car.
Thanks for all the help!

yea just one hose on each one is just fine. boost creep and surge and stuff and just general maximum boost is something you will have to fine tune when you get it running real good. you dont want to go over 7 or8 psi on the system. as long as you hear the bov blowing off....its working just fine. if you dont hear it, you may have it hooked up wrong and it could be stopping the turbo dead, so it doesnt spool well when you get into second. but i think the reason your turbo isnt spooling well in second is your lack of fuel. you need to get more fuel to that system. a weak a$$ lean mixture is not going to be able to bring the turbo to tip speed. plus i think a few more hard lean runs and you MAY need an engine rebuild. i would think about changing your plugs right now because they are probably toastttt. you need to get an inline pump or the walbro in tank pump. good luck let us know how it goes im glad i was able to help.

I know the motor wasn't pinging and I wasn't real hard on it. As I saw the mix go lean, I really backed off it. I just put in some new platinum 2's, so I hope I didn't kill them. I have the walbro 255 on order, but I heard it wasn't great for a FMU type setup. Should i order an inline one (like the MSD?). I plan to run 6-7 lbs untill I build the motor.

I also noticed that the BOV seems to stay partially open at idle. Do I need to mess with the screww on top?

Turbo sound and BOV sound were good and hope the fuel pump will cure my lean condition. I'm also throwing a CEL code, so i'll have to look into that (probably something to do with my missing link).

Thanks for all the help man!

yea bosch plugs will blow your coil so you should change those out anyway. sounds like your bov is working just fine. the CEL is probably because of the extreme lean condition. yea an inline pump like msd would also work great. i actually recommend using the walbro, i think it works great with honda setup which usually use a FMU, but everyone has their opinion. yea but only use ngk plugs. your car may actually run a lot better with some good plugs in it. those plugs youre using now are producing a very weak spark, which is not what is needed in a boosted environment.

My sister's fiance turned me onto the bosch plugs. I never really understood the point of them, but he swore by them. You say they blow out coils? I had an MSD Blaster coil that lasted maybe a 1/10 of a day before it went dead (using platinum 4's) . Hmm that explains things...

yea thats definately why that coil went toast. they will actually give you bad gas mileage and reduce hp too. bosch plugs in an audi or something german like that are great, but in a honda......ngk only.

I'm considering the Apexi Super AFC 2. Any thoughts on this? I was also wondering what my stock MAP sensor can handle.

I got the NGK's. I'll be tweaking my car today, so I'll have an update later. Hopefully all goes well.

yea the super afc is a good unit, but is not needed. the map sensor is not actually reading any boost because of the synapse. but, if you try to run more than 7 to 8 psi you will probably break your motor (on the stock timing) :) .........save your money cause once you get it dialed in, i have some tips for you to safely turn up your boost and crank up the hp to about 250-270 at the crank. (if running 7 psi right now you should be around 200)

Hahahaha. My accord lives. The lean condition I spoke of happens as the turbo approaches 1 psi or so. Then it goes rich like it should. I'm not sure about this, but it's kind of annoying (I still have to put in the new fuel pump). Any way...

Turbo spools nicley. BOV sounds great. Aside from this minor fuel issue things look good. I thought I bought a wastegate with a 6lb spring, but my gauge has read closer to 8 (once almost to 10). I'm wondering what's up with this. Should I use the little outlet on the compressor housing to give the wastegate what it needs?

I can't wait to hear the tips. Man, this has been an awesome project and I know it's just the begining. Thanks for the help so far, lightshow!

yes absolutely.....the outlet on the compressor side of the turbo needs to be hooked up to the wastegate for it to operate. it doesnt sound like the wastegate is working right now. i bet those new plugs made a difference. the first thing youll need to turn up the boost is a manual boost controller. i like the real simple design of the ball and spring type heres a real cheap one.

boost controller (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo-MBC-Manual-Boost-Controller-300ZX-240SX-S14-S13_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8038670 074QQrdZ1)

then i would recommend a cam shaft with a turbo profile on it. gude and AEBS both make a great product for around 2-3 hundred bucks. it will make more power at whatever boost level your running. also, it would be a good idea to get a front mount intercooler if you dont have one. doesnt need to be real big maybe 12 by 24. now to run more boost you have to change the ignition timing in relation to the amount of boost that you are running. it a real simple ignition system change and should cost around 3-4 hundred. you want to retard the timing per each pound of boost that you run. we can talk more about that later.

you just dont want to have any detonation. your motor was designed to handle about 300 hp, and it should very safely handle 250 without changing out the rods or closing the deck. you have to get the wastegate to work though because boost creep and surge is no good.

Well, thinking ahead, I installed an MSD boost master timing unit before the install. I'm the last person to want detonation in my motor. Currently, it is set to kick in at about 2 psi. I didn't realize that my stock internals could handle about 300 hp, but I guess that makes sense as long as detonation isn't present. I also have a front mount intercooler. I'll look for a good turbo cam and that boost controller. I'll also switch out the line that feeds my wastegate.

Any idea about the deadspot in my fuel system? It seems to lose fuel briefly around 1 psi or so, and then like magic it's back. It's kind of annoying since as the boost kicks in, the car looses power and then regains it.

Even though he says it can handle 300 hp stock....... dont ever take it that high..... If you change the rods pistons and rings by all means then do it, but the pressure you would be putting on the stock rings at 300hp would destroy them, just run 7 or 8 psi until you decide to rebuild the engine. Side note, if you have an auto trans. it wont handle 300hp. and at about 225hp if not lower, you need a transmission cooler.

No auto trans here, but that's still good advice for anyone with auto out there. I think my problem with my fuel system is that I still have to upgrade my pump. Other than that, things seem good for now...

I plan on doing rings, rods, and pistons in a few months. Maybe when I get a week off.

You lucky sob, Im eventually going to break down and convert my auto to a standard. And yes, I am jealous of anyone who drives a standard, which is why I frequently take my friends 05 2door accord for a spin. I love the fact that thing has enough power to chirp the tires in second gear.
But I hope the fuel pump fixes your problem.

you know....your fuel pump really shouldnt cause a not smooth transition between no boost and boost. what lines are you using to hook up your fmu and your bov? you should have a 5 way vacuum 'T' hooked in between your manifold, and your STOCK fuel pressure regulator.......leaving 3 vacuum lines. one should go to the BOV, the other should go to the FMU, and the last one should go to the boost guage inside the car. the new fuel pump may also very well fix the problem, i was looking around at some other turbo honda setups in my area and they all use the walbro fuel pump with an fmu im not sure what that other guy was telling you.. if you have any other line feeding the fmu there might be some lag involved which could cause that dead spot. the setup you have should have a really smooth transition though, i think it just needs to be dialed in. and yea marbro is right i wouldnt go as high as 300 on your motor.....id definately do 250 though :)

I have the FMU and BOV connected to one of the vacuum ports on the driver's side of the car. It was originally capped of since it was not used. I would have ran a tee fitting of the boost gauge line (I think it's running off another port on the side of the manifold), but I didn't want to overload one line.

Yeah, "settling" for 250 is probably the way to go. I don't think I would mind too much...

That boost contoller looks interesting. Might be a good few bucks spent as soon as things smooth out.

thats definately your problem then. you wont overload the line if you put all three on it, thats how it should be hooked up. all three units dont release any of the vacuum. just try it the t fitting is only a few bucks, just cut the line going to the stock regulator and put the t fitting in there and hook everything up on to the fitting. i bet your transition will be so much smoother. yea those simple manual boost controllers work extremely well. an expensive controller will work good too, but my favorite turbo setup is a budget one. turbo xs has a great product that i have seen in action its a solenoid that can have two different settings on it that you can change from inside the car. try that 5 way t though....you seriously wont overload the line.

I haven't tried the T-vacuum thing yet. I'm noticing that when the motor goes into boost at WOT, it seems like I have less power than when I have no boost. This almost sounds like I'm running too rich. I notice if I back off the gas, the power is there. I don't know if I'm too lean or too rich at this point. I'm getting confused....

that could be a problem with your pump.. but if your FMU isnt hooked up to that t fitting, then it isnt working properly....you have to get the right source of vacuum on the FMU.

yea youve gotta get the FMU, the BOV, and the wastegate hooked up right if you want your car to run well. if you dont have the outlet in the compressor hooked up to the wastegate its not going to run right. if the BOV and the FMU arnt hooked up to the line going to the stock regulator then the car isnt going to run right. that t fitting is only a few dollars.

Yeah, the main criteria for getting my car was it had to be stick. Mine would chrip the tires in 2nd too, even after I put good tires on. I even snapped an axle racing my friend when I dropped the clutch. And that was before the turbo...

I think a prelude transmission and axles are in my future.

I changed around the vacuum lines and I'm going to see how things go.

I switched the vacuum lines around, things seem to be slightly better. I'm wondering if FMU's are known for failing. It is a used one, and when boost is present at WOT, the motor has very little power. Oh well, at least it's not leaking oil...

hows the transition from no boost to boost? have you put the new fuel pump in yet? if you havent thats why its not running good at WOT. i have never heard of anyone using their stock fuel pump on their turbo car. your stock pump is really only meant to pump about 30 psi....your turbo system needs so much more than that at WOT. i wouldnt worry about that right so much right now..the transition is the big prob.

also, you cant achieve full boost unless the wastegate is working....

The transistion to boost is fine now. I hooked up the lines from the one feeding the regulator like you mentioned and things are good. I'm sure onnce I get the fuel pump (should be any day now), things will be grand at WOT. The wastegate seems to be alright too.

One thing that I'm still confused about is that I seem to be running rich at idle. Not just a little rich, but fairly rich. Is this normal after doing something like this, or is my FMU stuck closed or something?

ummmmmm you may want to redefine what you said on that one light.... cause achieving full boost on a turbo with 300+ hp efficiency would be a bad thing. ^_^

ORIGINAL: marbro

ummmmmm you may want to redefine what you said on that one light.... cause achieving full boost on a turbo with 300+ hp efficiency would be a bad thing. ^_^


[&:]??? The word "Efficiency" in the turbo world is related to thermaldynamics...what are you saying? I think I missed something.

im saying full boost in the sense of the full boost that you want the engine to run on... in this case 7-8 psi..the boost guage should just absolutely slam into the wall at 7 or 8 psi and stay there rock solid. also MBO it is very common for the car to run rich at idle dont worry too much about it as long as the car idles well. the idle on an engine are the hardest blocks in the fuel map to get right. i see even highly tuned cars with thousands of dollars in stand alone engine management and at idle the auto meter is banging left to right back and forth unable to get it just right. even if the a/f is banged all the way over it is not a problem.

Yeah, idle bounces just like you said. Other than that things are fine. I'm expecting the walbro any day now. Is it absolutley required to install it in tank, or can I get by with it in line? I know i'll have to disable the stock one regardless, and that pumping through it will slightly hurt my psi... just wondering if it's possible to aviod dropping the fuel tank...

hey yea that walbro should be an in tank unit. if it is....when you see it youll know that it has to go in the tank. you shouldnt have to drop the tank though. the pump should be sitting right under the back seat. shouldnt be very hard to get at.. damn it sounds like your is starting to run real good. dont get to frustrated with it just think about how much better its running now as opposed to before. it was only like 2 weeks ago it wasnt even running at all. you officially pimped that install im gonna have to give you an A plus on that one. one more thing though that you should keep in the back of your mind is that your stock injectors have a specific duty cycle which you may or may not be overdoing. if that is the case you will need to upgrade your injectors to a set of 330cc rc engineering injectors. but i think the new pump will probably work just fine.

My hanes manual said I had to drop the tank... I notice there is an access plate though under the back seat. I thought that might have been the pump or the fuel sender. Oh well, that'd be great if I didn't have to drop the tank.

I've read in my research that it's probably not a great idea to do much more than 6 psi with a rising rate FMU, since it will put a lot of stress on the injectors. Any ideas as to what injectors could take the fuel pressures of 8 - 10 psi? Are those rc engineering ones a lot stronger?

This whole install has been a great learning expirience. Yeah, like you said lightshow, last week my car really didn't even run. I wasn't sure if I'd ever get things going when I started piecing together my kit back in october, but things are cookin' now. Thanks all the info!

no prob... glad i was able to help you came to the right place. those rc injectors are outstanding the 330 cc injectors will easily handle 10 psi. and then when you want to move up to about 14 - 20 they have the next step up which i think is around 450cc.

Just so you know theres multiple forms of efficiency when involving a turbo, not just thermal dynamics. When I said said 300 hp efficiency my knowledge of that reference was lacking, but that reference talks about the potential horse power of a car when using a certain turbo. I originally thought it referenced the horsepower that the turbo could produce given the proper airflow, not including the actual engine potential.

its cool marbro we knew what you were talking about. what you said was right that turbo would be easily 72 or 73 percent efficient at 300 hp.

ORIGINAL: lightshow

its cool marbro we knew what you were talking about. what you said was right that turbo would be easily 72 or 73 percent efficient at 300 hp.


I gotcha.

For those who are lost, like I was at first, power potential can be estimated by lbs/min @ x boost pressure, with correct mapping turbos have efficiencies usually around 70% max on older turbos, the x-axis of the map tell the flow numbers, while the y-axis tells the boost preesure in BAR. The graphed area of the map shows the efficiency of the turbo at those two points. The point of mapping is to make sure that the engine will not choke on the air being supplied or burn up, because the turbo is overheating the air and everything else around it. there's more to it, but that's a decent summary.

E.g.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/bthrist/gt30rcompress2.gif

ORIGINAL: lightshow

its cool marbro we knew what you were talking about. what you said was right that turbo would be easily 72 or 73 percent efficient at 300 hp.


I gotcha.

For those who are lost, like I was at first, power potential can be estimated by lbs/min @ x boost pressure, with correct mapping turbos have efficiencies usually around 70% max on older turbos, the x-axis of the map tell the flow numbers, while the y-axis tells the boost preesure in BAR. The graphed area of the map shows the efficiency of the turbo at those two points. The point of mapping is to make sure that the engine will not choke on the air being supplied or burn up, because the turbo is overheating the air and everything else around it. there's more to it, but that's a decent summary.

E.g.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/bthrist/gt30rcompress2.gif

Alright, I installed the fuel pump today. I did have to drop the tank (which sucked) since I only had an access panel that went to the fuel sender. Drop the tank and install the walbro. I had to reuse the stock pick-up filter since the walbro one seemed like it didn't extend as far and wouldn't fit with the stock pump bracket. I also used the stock electric plug.

Reasemble everything and the car doesn't start. You can hear the new pump when you turn the key and stuff. No fuel comes out of the fuel pump outlet directly from the tank. I'm thinking that the polarity of the stock wiring and the pump are reversed, something I should have checked when I had the darn thing out in front of me. Any other ideas? I could swear that I hooked all lines, etc. back in place.

yea i think you have something hooked up wrong....drop that tank again...there is an offf chance that you just dont have enough fuel in the tank to support that high flowing pump...but a full tank is much harder to deal with..

mbo there is a good chance that you just dont have enough fuel in the tank....if you SURE that you hooked everything up right and you can hear the pump doing its thing..then fill that tank up some more.

I'm pretty sure I hooked up everything right. the only thing I'm not sure of is the connector to the pump. The stock plug worked with the walbro, so i just plugged it in, not checking the polarity. I'm wondering if maybe the stock plug and the walbro polarity are opposite. I can hear the pump come on, but nothing comes out. There is just under a quarter of a tank of gas in the tank, is that enough?? thanks man...

Okay I could be a moron at this point but whatever, if the polarity was reversed and you removed the gas cap and the pump was working wouldn't it be blowing air into the tank when you took off the line running to it? So in turn you should be able to hear bubbles in the gas tank if that were your issue correct? Just a thought, could be talking out my ARSE but brainstorming never hurt anyone except my brain

I think that makes sense. Unless the pump can't manipulate air, I would think that would be a sure fire way to check without removing the tank again. It sounded like the pump wasn't really making bubble sounds though, just kinda humming and the hum echoing in the tank. hmm...

Something else I just thought about... I was a petroleum supply specialist in the army for 6 years so pumps entertian me... perhaps it has to be primed? you could attempt to suck some fuel up manually then once some flows through try to start it... or force some down/in from a turkey baster perhaps?

mbo if the plug plugged right into the pump....then its hooked up right...fill that tank up and get to rippin...with all high flow pumps your days of mobbin around with the e light on are over.

yeah lightshow, I think I have to fill it up to get the thing "primed". Maybe using the turkey baster like sir nasty mentioned too, if things won't work. I'm going to put in like 10 gallons tommorow, and see what happens. Wish I could do it tonight, but the car is at my parent's house (my work shop), and I gotta work all evening.

lol my parents house is my official shop too..

Yeah... they love all my fun little projects just taking up their garage. Oh well, they would only put stupid junk in there so I might as well use it to some extent. i hope to have a house in at least a year. Gotta finish school and get a better job. blah blah blah. I just hope low gas is the problem!

I'm off to go fill up the tank today (after work). I really hope it cranks up! I've been reading a lot that people with the walbro can't go much lower than 1/4 of a tank before the car runs out of gas. I could live with that little quirk. Next on my list is bigger injectors.

I won a p06 on ebay last night for like 50 bucks. I want to get it chipped to use with my s200 hondata system that's sitting on my shelf. Anyone know what it takes to chip an ecu? Or where to get the parts? If it's all about solder, then I'm there.

yea chipping ecus are all about the solder.....you take out the old chip...then i would recommend soldering in a 'plug' so you can exchange chips on the fly.

Awesome. After I get the ecu chipped, i'll just need to find the harness from obd 2 to 1 and I'll get my car tuned. My friend actually gave me a harness, but it doesn't fit my car's wire harness. I also need to get the wires to connect the s200 to the ecu. Always a project...

So I topped off the tank and still nothing. I was pretty pissed at that point since I knew I had to drop the tank again and now it was full. So I drop the tank and get the pump out. I take the hose connections off the pump and I see that there is a metal piece that was stuck inside the hose. I don't know how the hell it got there, but that was the problem. Reassemble everything and go for a test drive and things are wayyyyy better. The car isn't starving for gas one bit. I have a boost controller on order (the manual check valve style kind that lightshow showed me) and I'm looking for another f22b2 to build up for some serious boost.

One problem I notice is that the wastegate spring is set for like 12 or 15 lbs of boost. It was supposed to be a 6lb spring (don't believe everything you see on eBay). I'm hoping I can take care of this with the boost controller. Needless to say, I didn't do any hard runs after I learned this.

After coming back from the test run, my nieghbor and his friend came over to check out what they just heard. The funny part is they're both mustang guys, and they had the hood up and the digital camera out taking pictures. haha it was great to see my honda get attention like that.

Congrats on getting it up and working well. Good to hear you finally have gotten about everything taken care of. I've been following this thread like crazy. Enjoy it man; living my dream :D

helllll yeaaa......thats what im talking about...sounds like your getting it dialed in real well...congrats...ok with the wastegate though....is it an internal or external wastegate? if its an external wastegate.....then you will need to change the spring.

if you do have a external there are different wastegate sizes in millimeters..... this spring is for a tial 38mm, and would be perfect for your application.

spring (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tial-38mm-Wastegate-spring-0-6-Bar-small-blue-8-702-psi_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8040617 376QQrdZ1)

the boost controller can only increase boost...it absolutely cannot reduce the amount of boost your turbo is producing.but...

if you have an internal wastegate......just bend the wastegate IN towards the turbo approximately 1/4 inch, and this will reduce the boost to about 6-7 psi and then you can bring it up to the level that you want with the boost controller.

It's an external waste gate. HKS 38mm kind. I'm assuming that I need to take off the allen screws around the top of the things and the spring will be under there, right? But it's crazy how much better it runs. I don't know why I thought the stock fuel pump could deliver the fuel a boosted motor would need.

So I guess i'll find a good spring and use the boost controller to boost from there.

yea sometimes things just dont become apparent until they are pointed out.... and yes the spring is sitting just under the cover on your wastegate its pretty easy to change out. im glad your cars running real good now. just like tom said your living the dream right now, i cant think of too many things more exciting than a freshly turbo'ed honda especially when you installed the kit yourself. let us know when you get the spring and boost controller in and i can give you some tips on how to tweak your ignition. theres prolly 30 or 40 horsepower hiding in there. and how about some pics and video if you can...im sure there are a bunch of people that have been watching this post diligently

No problem guys, I'll put up some pics I have of the project. I can shoot some video of it in action if anyone knows a good place to host something that size. Anyways, I have a spring and boost controller on order. I can't wait to hear the tips for increasing the hp lightshow. I'm all ears man!

I can relate to everyone out there following this post saying that I'm living the dream. I've been dying to do this to my car since I got it back in October of 2003. At first I was just going to buy a kit, but I didn't want to spend 3000 plus on one, so I just did my homework and pieced it together a kit a little bit at a time. Anyone out there who wants to do something like this, just get educated and believe in yourself a bit. It was a lot of work but a lot of fun doing the install. Lots of problem solving. If you're gonna do it, just be ready for the ups and the downs. I think overall I spent like $1500 on my kit (not counting hondata, which isn't being used yet).

I'll get some pictures up shortly..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/SunsetDrummer/DSCF1628.jpg

Here's the stuff set out before the install.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/SunsetDrummer/DSCF1631.jpg

And here's all the parts laid out on the operating table...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/SunsetDrummer/DSCF1629.jpg

The welder seen here helped the project tremendously.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/SunsetDrummer/DSCF1630.jpg

Here's the car on the drive-ups awaiting the install

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/SunsetDrummer/DSCF1635.jpg

This is after the install of course.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/SunsetDrummer/DSCF1636.jpg

Another angle of the new and improved engine bay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/SunsetDrummer/DSCF1637.jpg

Here's a close up of the MSD Boost Timing Master and my new windshield washer fluid container (had to rip out the old one to make room for the charge piping).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/SunsetDrummer/DSCF1639.jpg

Installation complete. Gotta love the front mount intercooler.

I maintain a website for my company.... If you're interested in posting some video you can e-mail it to me and I will post the link in the forum... just let me know... also, if it's over 50 Mb's I may need to give you another e-mail but for now try arealluckyguy@yahoo.com

I know this may be a pain but.... would you be interested in posting what you used/where you got it? (maybe I should scroll back in the message it's probably already there... *doh*)

No problem. Here's a list. Sorry if i don't have specific part numbers (ebay doesn't go back that far). If i forget anything, feel free to call it out. All stuff off ebay unless otherwise noted.

T3/T4 Garrett Wheel Hybrid .63 (new in box off ebay for 256 bucks)

F22B Log style manifold from f22parts.com (was warped when I bought it. May want to look somewhere else before dropping the 300-400 bucks on it).

HKS 38mm external wastegate

Raptor style BOV

Prelude intake pipe kit with BOV flange welded in. (I haven't seen this on ebay recently, but it bolted right up. Just had to get rid of washer fluid tank). Came with all hardware!

Vortech 12:1 FMU

Walbro 255 Intank fuel pump

Godspeed front mount intercooler

MSD Boost Timing Master (jegs.com)

Steel oil line and fittings

Oil drain kit

K&N Air Filter (Advance Auto)

Vacuum line, bolts, clamps, etc (Advance Auto)

Autometer boost guage and air/fuel ratio gauge

Downpipe was used from someone with one for a 97 accord ex. I had to cut off the flange and re-weld it at a different angle. Also had to add o2 bungs. I recommend either getting one from a kit (like drag), or finding a used one like i did and modding it for your use. Otherwise, take it to an exhaust shop. You can even piece together a mock downpipe in PVC and take it to the shop to actually fabricate.

I would also recommend some injectors. I think that's my next purchase...
I'll try to shoot some video thursday if everyone is still interested. Thanks for the hosting offer sir nasty.

still interested???? you bet i am

Awesome, I'll get some video up shortly. i'm still waiting on the 8psi spring, but I notice that it seems like at WOT, the car is still seeming like it's dying out, even at lower boost levels. Could it be that the turbo is blowing the spark out? My ignition is still completely stock (unfortunetly). I couldn't check my A/F gauge to see if it's running out of fuel like before, because the sun was shining right on it this morning, but if I back off the gas just a little, the car comes right back to life.

that could be your engine freaking out from the boost, seeing as 15 psi its a bit more then you should run on stock internals...... but i really dont know....

Yeah, I have a feeling it's something to do with the engine. I just put in the 8 psi spring this morning and things seem better. I think some of the boost may be blowing by the rings. What can I expect out of a motor with 140,000 miles on it?! That aside, I still feel a huge increase in power, and I can't wait to see how the car runs with some harder throttle action (didn't get to open it up this morning since it was one big traffic jam).

I shot some video yesterday of some moderate driving. It's through a residential/rural area, so don't expect any racing. Plus, it's before I installed the spring, so things weren't 100%. My main computer is down (the one that can edit video) so I'll try to have it up for next week when I can get it fixed.


*update*

Boost is so much better now, especially at WOT. After some serious boost though, I smell a weird smell that's like burnt tire mixed with burnt oil. It's not a very strong smell, but I notice it. I suspect that my rings are going or my head gasket is cooking. I plan on buying another F22 down the road, so I don't care if I have to rebuild an engine or too. I love building engines anyway...

I love the power though... hahaha it's great!

Anyways, things seem to be going well. My friend's dad heard about the smell I was noticing and said it might be the wire insulation/vacuum hoses/etc. being effected by the heat. I'm going to heat wrap the whole setup or maybe try to vent the hood a little bit somehow. The car sounds downright evil when you mash it though. :D

I know you mentioned RC engineering injectors, lightshow. What size do you think I should get? Should they drop and plug right in, or do I need to wire up some resistors or something? I think I'll change them out before the fuel pressure kills my stock ones.

And I'm ready for those ignition tips too!

ive got some homework to do tonight but i will get back to you on that.

ok so yea that smell may be your cooking some hoses, which you dont want to do. if you wrap the whole system it is going to make a big difference. first i was thinking you should get 330cc rc engineering but now im thinking you should go with the 450's they will work great now and they will support more boost later on down the line. the injectors are great but they cost quite a bit and they will pop right in with no mods at all. if you have the money then get them, but if you are a little strapped, then you can get a set of 450 dsm injectors from an eclipse, but you absolutely MUST and i mean must get a special little resistor box to use with them or you will fry your ecu quick.

about that smell though. ill need to think about that a little more. how do you have the oil feed and return lines on the turbo hooked up?

so you will need this.

resistor box (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-DSM-resistor-box-with-450cc-clips-crx-civic-turbo_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQitemZ80419 72397QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

and then these

injectors (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/450CC-Turbo-DSM-Injectors-Eclipse-Talon-Honda-b16-h22_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33554QQitemZ8042530 687QQrdZ1)

ive only got one eye open right now so im not sure if these are the EXACT ones that you actually want to buy...if you do decide to go this route. you should do a little research

I might be cooking some hoses, but it seems to only last a short while, right after boosting. I know there is a lot more heat under the hood now and I need to address this. I want to heat wrap everything, and I am also considering venting the hood somehow (maybe buy a vented hood?). The oil feed and return lines are hooked up the way they're supposed to, I think. I haven't been leaking oil from them (at least I don't think so).

At first I thought i was smelling crankcase vapors or something from the boost blowing by the pistons, but I raced a 2004 mustang GT yesterday and things weren't too pretty for him heh heh. And as soon as i learn how to launch the car without tire spin all out through first, things will be really bad ass.

you shouldnt be blowing anything by the rings.....they are actually quite good. they are not the weak point on your system and would probably handle 25 psi. if your oil return line is not a perfectly straight downward path to the oil pan, then oil will build up in the turbo and will spit out the seals...this mixed will all the raw fuel running through the system when you roll on the throttle will cause a smell that i would somewhat relate to what your smelling, and it would only happen after some hard boost..


hows it running now? is it still dying at wot? and hows the transition from vacuum to boost?

it's not a perfectly straight path to the pan. It is generally a straight shot down, but the pipe hose has a slight curve in it since I kept it on the longer side. Hmm, I guess that could be it. Marbro also brought up that it might be the raw exhaust gases from my wastegate opening and venting under my hood.

Other than that smell, things are running fine. Transistions are excellent and WOT is AWESOME. As I said, my friend's poor V8 mustang yesterday ate some dirt of mine. :D

Any video yet? I want to see it move... Help us live the dream through you! *L*

yea i definately like marbros idea, because that exhaust is exiting right out in the engine compartment

definately wrap that pipe that is coming out of the turbo, because it is right in front of the wastegate. so its running good huh?? alright ......let me know what settings you have the msd at right now as far as when it starts to retard the timing, and by how much per pound of boost.

yeai bet that burnt tire smell is that pipe getting so hot and that rubber boot next to the turbo giving off that smell. you dont want the oil return line to be on the long side though. you should shorten it so its the perfect length. hey and your a good welder.....you should weld a pipe that runs off the wastegate, and cut a nice little clean hole in the side of your side fender and have it exit flush with that...that would seriously be sick.

hahah that would be sick. The funny part is I thought about doing that exact thing. When the wastegate opens up, just have it scream out of that hole. haha. Right now I just have a short dump tube going down, but I'm thinking I should do something like that now.

I'll shorten that oil line though. Maybe that will help things.

If you have those ignition tips you mentioned lightshow, I'm all ears!

yep it deals with your msd ignition. what are the current settings on that. like when it starts to retard the timing and by how much per pound of boost or ATM or BAR

The start point is set to about 2.5 psi. Kinda a safety setting for trying things out I suppose. I have the fine tune knob (in car knob) around 1.5. I'm not sure if that second number is in psi... just the numbers on the control its self.

whats the range on the knob inside the car?

ok just got the specs. its 0-3 degrees per pound.. so i want you to start with making sure that the MSD vacuum line is the exact same source as the FMU is using. then set the dial on the unit under the hood at 3 degrees, and the dial inside at 0.5. start with this and you may still be able to throw on some more timing on top of this. your probably going to feel a startling difference...and you now have a lot of room to work with here so this is where the fine tuning will need to come in. you just dont want to have any detonation at all... when you get the boost controller, and you add on some more boost you may want to up the dial in the car to .75 or even one. now if you run higher octane fuel.....or get a better spark.....you can throw on more timing so just keep that in mind. let us know how it goes

also, that bomb that you toasted that mustang i bet he was feeling bad....this will help you lanch and corner alot better.


LSD (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-LSD-HELICAL-90-97-HONDA-ACCORD-DX-EX-LX-SE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33601QQitemZ80427795 61QQrdZ1)

and it sounds like the motor is just about dialed in so some good injectors would be a good idea. the 450cc's would be perfect. but in general now as you go up in horsepower, you will want to use this formula


(horsepower * BSFC)/ (number of injectors * duty cycle)

the BSFC of an n/a engine is usually .5 and on a turbo engine it is .6 or greater.


so if the dial on your MSD inside the car is set at zero and your running 8 psi. your car had 140 hp stock and there is about 14 psi in one ATM or BAR. so for every PSI there is a 10 hp difference so with 8 psi you would have gained 80 hp (if the dial is set at zero). so you should be hovering around 220hp at the crank. so 220 * .6 is 132 and 4 injectors * 80 percent duty cycle or .8 is 3.2.....so your injectors should deliver 41.25 lb/hr and to change this to CC's just multiply by 10.5....so you would need at least 433 cc's.

that timing stuff is the exciting part...i hope your rippin right now.

Time for some injectors! Now with those large injectors, would the FMU still be required?

I'll dial in those settings this morning and drive to school (hopefully traffic won't be a bitch) and tell everyone how it goes when I get there.

And I got the boost controller yesterday. The instructions are as clear as mud. What I got out of them is that I basically just "splice" in the controller to the wastegate vacuum source. I thought I had to use the top port on the wastegate though.

That gave some more power. For the injectors (RC Engineering) high or low impedence. Love the extra kick!

yea im pretty sure that you actually have a resistor box on your car right now and your stock injectors are the 'peak and hold' type which are low impedance. you can, however, run high or low impedence injectors...but as i know it....the low impedence injectors work better for turbo cars, and yes you will want to keep your fmu...when you put in the s200 you wont need to fmu any longer.

so if you run low imp, you need to have the resistor box (which your car may already have)
if you run high imp...you do not need a resistor box ( and if your car has it...it will need to be removed)

you should plug in the boost controller exactly how the instructions say.

im not sure if you should turn up the boost anymore until you get those injectors though......your probably over the 80 percent duty cycle on your stock injectors, and i know at a certain point they may start to cut flow. and heres a list of injectors that you can use just in case you dont have the 3 or 4 hundred bucks for rc's and ill pull out my digi and take a pic of my resistor box in my accord so you know what to look for.



89-94 DSM 5-speed ~ 450cc, Blue tops, low imp
89-94 DSM Auto ~ 390cc, low imp
95+ DSM injectors ~ 450cc black tops, high imp.
84-85 RX7 GSL-SE 680cc, low impedence but only 2 per engine tho.
86-92 RX7 non-turbo 460cc(4 count), low or high impedence depenging on year.
86~92 RX7 Turbo 2 550cc(4 count), low or high imp.

That would be great if you could take a picture of that for me, so I know what to look for. Thanks man!

got those pics ill send them to you.

hey whats your email? i dont want to send any 200kb pics these are like 1.5 mb

Well, so beings the stage of my turbo lx ^_^ I have a t3/04e coming in. I figured 265 bucks is worth it. Can i claim that its greddy or turbonetics no, but everything shows that its true to form.

3" INLET DIAMETER
2" OUTLET
WET FLOATING BEARINGS
1/8 NPT OIL INLET
T3 / T4 FLANGE

SPECS:
. 50 A/R COMPRESSOR
.63 A/R TURBINE
.57 TRIM

TURBINE WHEEL:
EXDUCER: 2.48"
MAYOR : 2.89"
COMPRESSOR WHEEL :
EXDUCER: 2.07"
MAYOR : 2.36"

My only real concern....... will it fit...... lol I may need fabrication because either the exaust pipe will bump into the alternator or the front motor mount on my car. But in the end it all depends on the design of the turbo manifold. But yeah log style with the flange facing the front of the car vs toward the bottom of the car..... im trying to get an image of that. Then i have to deal with the power steering resivoir being in the way of the tubing. I still need to take pictures of my car though lol maybe i am just seeing the turbo as larger then it actually is..... like a t6 size... yup i have a lot to consider

yes you do its all about the placement, so that flange that hooks the turbo up to the manifold is critical. the turbo is actually pretty small but it will take up just about all the space in between the block and the radiator

*nods* i figured that much, when i get the turbo in i will be setting roughly where it should be mounted on the manifold to find if i will have trouble with the 3 inch exaust pipe im not all that concerned about the charge piping because that can be cut to fit

When I got my turbo in the mail, I said to myself "how the heck is this gonna fit??". With the log style manifold with the flange that faces the front of the car, I didn't have much trouble with it. Of course, A/C got kicked out, but it was worth it for me. I did have to take some plastic off the passenger side cooling fan though to get the turbo to fit. I didn't have to mess with the motor mount at all. My downpipe looked like it was going to clip my alternator, but it has a good amount of clearence (it helps to take the electrical connector off the alternator when fitting the d-pipe). I was surprised how it all just kind of fell into place, and as soon as you get more pieces and see how things will fit, you'll have a better idea of what will need to be done, and it may be less than you think.

There won't be a whole lot of room to work with things, but that turbo should fit nicely in there... almost like it should have been there the whole time.

mbo thats awesome that you have that same muffler.....i just put one on my gf's little sentra and it even sounds good on there.

which injectors are you gonna get?

I really want to go with the RC's since I'd like to get some brand new ones, but they're pricey. This coming week is payday, so I might just go for them...

I'm 90% sure I'll invest in the RC's 440 cc low impedence injectors. Otherwise, I'll get some DSM's.

Youll just want to keep in mind the fuel map will have to be adjusted because you dont want 440cc injectors running at full during preboost. I will enjoy the day when i need a larger fuel rail and new injectors ^_^

yeah, my friend has a SFAC 2 he'll give me for cheap, maybe I'll tune things down with that...

the injectors are still controlled by the computor..........they wont run at full when the car is idling. the o2 will still monitor how rich or lean the mixture is, if the mixture is too rich, the computor will reduce the pulse width to the injector. when the boost rolls on, the computer will increase the pulse width, and this combined with the rising rate fuel pressure will make the A/f correct under boost. marbro.....with your car right now with the stock injectors, they dont run at full when your at idle. as you hit the gas, the computer realizes that if it doesnt do something, the engine will start to run very lean. so it fattens the pulse to increase the delivery of fuel, when you take your foot off the gas the pulse is reduced or the motor would run rich.

In order to control the flow of fuel of the larger injectors, you'll need some form of a fuel management system. The factory system simply cannot control the changes that are going to be made beyond the factory specs. Thats why people redo the ecu of earlier obd's. Cause if you could just upgrade everything and not worry about the computer no one would change or chip them. Thats why stand alone fuel management exists and if mbo is going to take the turbo up higher then 10psi hes going to have to change the injectors again to 550cc or higher and heaven forbid he would goto over 25psi, running a second fuel line and pump sucks. ^_^ But yeah, the computer only accounts for so much

well i was just talking about 10 right now. if he goes over that i would recommend him closing the deck. no need to add things that arnt needed right now. the 450's will work perfectly with his stock ecu. the computer doesnt have a set parameter. it takes signals from different sensors and makes its own set of outputs. even right now, the pulse width is wayyyy larger now with the turbo than when he had it stock. that is way out of the normal parameters of the stock engine, but it is working great right now because the computer knows what it needs to do to keep the a/f correct. with the correct size injectors, the computer will actually feel more at home because the signals will actually be closer to what they were stock. lets just put a number on it lets say the pulse is 2 milliseconds stock, and now under boost with the stock injectors, it had to be increased to 4. well with the correct sized injectors it will probably be closer to 2 again. but you are absolutely right, if he does go over 10, then he will need a bunch of heavy duty engine management systems to keep the engine running well, and possibly even water injection. im just trying to help him out a little step by step. he has a hondata, which in sure that hell use later on down the line. i dont want mbo to think that anything else has to be done to run larger injectors because thats already a pretty big step. mbo all you need is

those wiring connectors, because you stock ones dont fit. you can use DSM ones like were in that link earlier or you can by them from RC.

fuel rail. a new aem one or one from RC is perfect....also a dsm rail will fit perfectly too

and then the injectors.

this setup will support 10psi, and you car will run better. for me though, 10 psi would be plenty. **** if im taking on z28's and ****, thats just impressive. mbo if you go to the strip they might tell you that you can even come back until you have a roll cage and kill switches for all kinds of stuff cause i think at like 13.99 or 12.99 they require a cage here in az.

So if I need new connectors, I'll probably go for the DSMs. 10 psi will be plenty of pop for me for a long time.

How do you estimate HP output based on boost? Any ideas what you may be running at now? I noticed an earlier post that suggested like 225 is that correct??

great question....and its rediculously simple. its based on atmospheric pressure. there is natually 14.7 psi of pressure on everything on the planet at all times, including the combustion chamber of your motor. so its directly related to the hp of your motor in stock form. so if you add any boost just add it to the 14.7 already in the system. so if you have a 8psi turbo system the new number you will use for the equation will be 22.7 ....so if your motor has 140 hp stock


(14.7/ 140) = (22.7/ X)


so 140 * 22.7 = 3178

3178/14.7 = 216.19 hp

now this is an estimate, true hp can only be told on the dyno, but even then almost every dyno will show a little different number. and if you retard the timing with the MSD it will lower hp, but increase gas mileage

Thanks for the response that's exactly what I wanted to know.... Now, that being said. Do you by chance (or anyone for that matter) know approximate weight/HP ratios and 1/4 mile times or 0-60 times? Basically how much HP would I need to drop to say a 12 second 1/4 mile for my car's weight... I know there are a TON of other factors in this but are there any estimates or general rules?

you know i cant remember, it is in one of my hod rod magazines though. if i happen to be taking a ****, and see it again, i will definately post it though.

ok youre going to need over 500 whp to hit the 12's most likely 600whp. Theres a 2 door accord with 689 whp and it only got 10.86@136.3mph in the 1/4. So yeah, a lot of engine work and a big turbo.


lightshow, is that equation in consideration of crank or wheel?
Either way i cant run the setup i want on my stock trany lol and this is less then 2000 dollars for the setup....

ha mbo i just put your numbers into the calculator that was posted elsewhere. with 220 hp and i looked up the weight on a 94-97 accord it said 2855, and your tires are 19.61 inches tall and the 1/4 came out to 13.06 at 99 mph. so if that weight is right and the calculator is right then thats about what you would run

I think 13 is a bit overestimated you really shouldnt go based on actual calcuators because im pretty sure thats ideal in the end. Thats the downside to calculations they never consider reality in most of them ^_^

well with that other formula, it depicts crank hp. and if that 1/4 mile formula is correct, there is plenty of fact. when you go to drag in limited classes they use a simple formula to figure out how much hp you have. they weigh your car before you hit the strip and if you blow the doors off something, they know you have too much hp and you get disqualified. there is plenty of accurate fact in power weight ratios. and i seriously would almost bet money that mbo would run a 13 - 13.5 with a lsd and a set of nitto 555r's

I can't wait till I turn it up to 10 psi! a 13.5 1/4 mile would rock. Any ideas on what a 10 psi 1/4 mile would calculate out to?

I'm heading down to the local drag strip for some fun real soon.

i think it was sir nasty that posted the formula. ill find it and plug the numbers in though

it says a 12.73....yea mbo i think you might get banned from the strip if your running 10psi you might want to turn it down a little when you go there ...lol

yeah, i am curious to find out what you clock at, all i know is mbo, you suck cause your car weights 400 pounds less then mine lol

ummm i thought the point of going to the strip was to see how fast your car can go? ^_^

but yeah, based on your math calc for horse power, at 8 psi i would have just under 250hp at the crank..... which worries me cause an auto trany cant handle that in the end lol

What did you do to remove 400 lbs?? I've been looking for crap to take out myself, just really haven't found anything worth removing. Thought about the back seat and realized that it was a foam insert, so I said forget that and kept it.

I don't have a/c, but adding the turbo brought that weight back and more.

I'd be so happy with a 12.73 time.

hehe, i didnt do anything, i was going based on the weight lightshow went on, said that your year was suppose to be 2800ish pounds, my car weights over 3200. The only way to lose the weight fiberglass hood (those are awesome, weigh like... 25 pounds expensive tho), remove everything out of the trunk and the backseat ( about what 35 pounds there? maybe 50), if you want to go the insane route, you can do fiberglass doors which will drop your cars weight over 200 pounds (considering what your willing to lose from the doors and also very expensive) so yeah, save time.... get a viper, everythings already fiberglass lol

Oh yeah, I read your first post entirely wrong. haha my car weighs less. Yeah, I know i can do the whole body panel thing. I was thinking of remocing the heater core and the other A/C crap that's still in there (don't need it in florida!), but I don't know if it's worth the trouble.

well.... i think you might be able to even out the weight you gained from the turbo, plus a little more hp by the fact you wont have the a/c in the belt line ^_^ i think just the alternator on the underdrive pulley will get you about 8 hp ^_^ fun stuff

as it stands im still hunting for a turbo manifold, wastegate, bov, downpipe and piping.....

yeah, I already ripped out the compressor for the a/c. When I do my timing belt next, I'll put an underdrive pulley on there.

I checked ebay for an accord turbo downpipe everyday, and then one day it was there, but I let someone else get it since It went to like $300 bucks. But apparently the person didn't pay so I ended up getting it like a week later.

Your manifold will determine what you'll need to do with your downpipe, so get that first.

alright, I'm going to bid on some DSM's tonight. Here's my question. I have my eye on an OBX fuel rail. Is it any good for my turbo'd car or should I get the AEM one? Any input would be great. Also, while I'm at it, I'm going to type in the directions word for word of the boost controller and then you guys tell me if you think I've got it right. I know it's kinda hard without seeing the boost controller, but it simply has two ports.

1. Remove the hose from the wastegate actuator and cap-clamp the compressor end. If you have a second port on the wastegate actuator you will need to also cap-clamp that end.

2. Now connect a hose from the first port of the wastegate actuator to the side of the boost controller.

3. Locate the pressure line coming from the intake manifold and connect it to the the bottom of the boost controller.

4. If you have a blow-off valve you will need to add a t-fitting in the line.

5. Now tighten the knob clowise and set the boost. blah blah.

Ok, What I get out of it is that I need to feed the wastegate port to the controller and then to a line in the manifold. Right now it's feeding off the compressor port, so I guess I have to change that.

And I'm pretty sure that I need to leave the top port on the wastegate open. Sound right?

hey mbo its actually alot simpler than that. the controller just bleeds boost....thats it. those instructions are fo cars that already have a turbo on them from the factory. just snip that line that goes from the compressor to the wastegate and hook the controller in between there. when the screw is all the way turned in you will be running the stock boost...and usually every 1 turn counter clockwise results in 1psi mroe boost.

dude..my car was doin the same thing...check out this site..it acutally works..i thought i wasa bunch of spam but they payed for my car to be fixed


[]http://spammityspamspamspam.com/affiliate/?a=10120&s=220&d=130[/]

mbo .... the stock fuel rail will be fine to about 250HP.

The boost controller simply vents the wastegate line to the atmosphere until the boost pressure is hit, then it switches from atmospheric air pressure to manifold boost pressure and this pressure opens the wastegate in it's normal fashion .... the only difference is that when the boost is low, the wastegate doesn't see the building pressure that causes leakage.

i need advice on if i can put a turbo from a diesel on my non diesel

OK, I have a 2008 coupe V6. what good quality turbo stuff can I do for about 3000 bucks. It has 270hp stock. I imagine I'm making about 280 with a K&N intake and Magnaflow exhaust. How much can the car take while still running for another 100,000 miles? Also, what is reliable and easy to use?

shabba
a deisel runs much higher CR and higher temp. exhaust. Chances are that it wouldn't work, but you need to learn how to and study the compressor and turbine maps. If they are common sizes like GT20 or 16G or T3, you should be able to compare based on impeller sizes, AR's and trim. Best bet is to email with the engineers at Honeywell, MHI or Garrett.


jason
You could probably get an ebay special for 3 grand, but I would not recommend it for an 08. You will need about double that budget to have a good system, new and tuned properly. I have a mix of new and used parts for my system, but I also plan to upgrade the used parts when I get to my Stage 2 build.

why is this STICKED? it started out a nice DYI build with all the right questions but went to total crap in the end. there is really nothing special here to give it STICKY status. alot more tech advise on honda-tech.

-just sayin