If you hear a clicking noise on turns , most likely you got a bad outer cv joint,,..

Joints go bad if the rubber boot protecting it , has been torn open , thus all the grease has been lost and water, dirt, dust get into the bearings,

Different year Accords require different tools

For the 86-89 accords

Tools needed : ( the reason to use impact is that , it is a lot stronger than chrome socket ) . 32 mm impact socket, 17 mm 1/2 inch socket. punch,

lug nut tool, ( should come with car ) or just get a 19mm 1/2 inch socket, side cutter, 17 mm wrench, 1/2 long pry bar,extension pipe ,flat tip big screwdriver, medium size cutter pin, big hammer, Oh and the heaviest , biggest person you can find :-) ..floor jack and jack stands,,wd-40..or any penetrating lubricant in case of rusty nuts, bolts, etc etc.

For the 90 and newer Accords, you need a 36 mm impact socket instead on the 32 mm

parts needed : new axle,( Do not get a Honda axle way way too much money,, you can get one for around 60-75 dollars at Autozone, Checker, etc etc,) possibly trany fluid, you might loose some ,, Honda fluid ATF-Z1 if auto,,, 10w-30 motor oil if manual ,

First off, make sure you get the right part, auto and manual tranny require different axles, as does a car with ABS and no ABS,
You can install an ABS axle in a NON-ABS car but you cannot install a NON-ABS axle into a ABS car, if you do the ABS lite will stay on, and of course get the right side ( left- right)

Now we are ready to get the hands dirty.
If car has the big wheel covers with the plastic rings on the lug nuts,,( dx-lx)
remove 2 lug nuts, remove the plastic rings from the lug nuts, reinstall the lug nuts, remove the other 2 lug nuts, now the wheel cover should come out, reinstall the other 2 lug nuts , so all 4 lug nuts are back on and tight,
Make sure car is in park ( auto ) or in gear ( manual ) , E-brake engaged,

You now need to loosen up the axle nut, use the 32 or 36 mm socket ( depends on the year), get the pry bar and the extension pipe,Remember i asked you to get the biggest friend you got ??? Have him ( her ) step on the pipe and loosen up the nut ( counterclockwise),Once nut is loose, jack the car up, set car on jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, remove the cutter pin on the lower control arm ball joint, loosen but do not totally remove 17 mm castle nut,the reason being, that you are going to hit the control arm to separate the ball joint, and if you miss you could ruin the threads on the ball joint ..so hit the control arm till ball joints separates, once done, lift the knuckle assemly up, to separate from lower control arm, tap on the axle to separate from hub assembly, once separated, swing the knuckle so it is out of the way,

On accords up to 89, you need to remove the lower bolt for the fork , that conect the strut to control arm, get the 17 mm socket and 17 mm wrench and remove the bolt,swing the fork over so axle can be removed, you need tp pry down on control arm , get the screwdriver and pry axle out of the tranny ,,

For the 90 and newer accords the axle will slide out throught the fork, so there is no need to remove the lower bolt, The only way it will not slide out , is if you have non honda struts, Some Non honda struts are a bit longer and it will restrict the axle from sliding out ..
In most cases you will not loose any tranny fluid, but have some at hand just in case you have to top off the tranny

To install new axle, make sure the retainer clip is there, where it goes into the tranny , fit axle into the tranny and make sure axle pops all the way in,,tap on it gently with hammer if needed ,,, reinstall everything in reverse order,,....Make sure to stake the axle nut with a punch once it is tight,,

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