Tony1M
02-22-2007, 07:41 PM
I just succesfully replaced the blower motor in our 1992 Accord LX 4AT, no AC, no power anything.
While I had the duct and fan housing removed I discoverd the ulitimate cause of the sticking heater temperature control sliderthat has caused great trouble and expense tomany owners of this generation of Accord.
As I moved the temperature sliding lever back and forth, I could easily see that the foam gasket of theforward-most flapper-door sticks terribly toits plastic seat on the heater-core housing.
I had to pull pretty hard on that front flapper to finallypry it loose from the gasket. Sticky stuff was on the surface of the foam gasket, as well as on the plastic surface where it seated and sealed.
This is the ultimate cause of probably tens of thousands of repeatedlystuck and broken temperature slider controls on these cars.
WhatI believehas happened fromDay 1 is that this chemically-improperfoam gasket gets stickyfrom the heat of the heater-core sittingmere inches away. Then, when the car is turned off, this sticky material hardens like a glue between the foam gasketand the plastic.
During the summer, there's not too much trouble, but during cold weather it is almost impossible for the cable to exert enough force to break loosethat stuck flapper.
When that cable fails, it's an extemely expensive thing to replace.We had ours replaced shortly after our warranty expired, and the bloody thing broke again within a year.Probably Hoda did not have a clue why this was happening.
I scraped off the sticky stuff on the plastic and removed as much of the sticky surface of the foam gasket as I could. I then considered what to do to keep those surfaces unstuck, soI coated the gasket itself, and the plastic surface it seals against, with a thick layer of silicone grease. Hopefully this will keep those surfaces lubricated enoughso that when the gasket softens again it will have nothing to stick to.
If this doesn't work over the long haul, I think the thing to do would be to cut some one-side-sticky paper to the same dimension as the gasket and stick it to the gasket with the not-sticky side facing the sealing surface. Thatshould be the final solution to the problem, and I'm kinda sorry that I thought of it only after getting the thing re-assembled.
While I had the duct and fan housing removed I discoverd the ulitimate cause of the sticking heater temperature control sliderthat has caused great trouble and expense tomany owners of this generation of Accord.
As I moved the temperature sliding lever back and forth, I could easily see that the foam gasket of theforward-most flapper-door sticks terribly toits plastic seat on the heater-core housing.
I had to pull pretty hard on that front flapper to finallypry it loose from the gasket. Sticky stuff was on the surface of the foam gasket, as well as on the plastic surface where it seated and sealed.
This is the ultimate cause of probably tens of thousands of repeatedlystuck and broken temperature slider controls on these cars.
WhatI believehas happened fromDay 1 is that this chemically-improperfoam gasket gets stickyfrom the heat of the heater-core sittingmere inches away. Then, when the car is turned off, this sticky material hardens like a glue between the foam gasketand the plastic.
During the summer, there's not too much trouble, but during cold weather it is almost impossible for the cable to exert enough force to break loosethat stuck flapper.
When that cable fails, it's an extemely expensive thing to replace.We had ours replaced shortly after our warranty expired, and the bloody thing broke again within a year.Probably Hoda did not have a clue why this was happening.
I scraped off the sticky stuff on the plastic and removed as much of the sticky surface of the foam gasket as I could. I then considered what to do to keep those surfaces unstuck, soI coated the gasket itself, and the plastic surface it seals against, with a thick layer of silicone grease. Hopefully this will keep those surfaces lubricated enoughso that when the gasket softens again it will have nothing to stick to.
If this doesn't work over the long haul, I think the thing to do would be to cut some one-side-sticky paper to the same dimension as the gasket and stick it to the gasket with the not-sticky side facing the sealing surface. Thatshould be the final solution to the problem, and I'm kinda sorry that I thought of it only after getting the thing re-assembled.