Engine Won’t Start?

Check Coil & ICM Â* ( Igniter)

On models with single-coil ignition systems, if the
engine cranks but there’s no spark at the plugs, check the
ignition coil and the ICM (ignition control module
[igniter]) by using this procedure:
NOTE: Wire colors for wires referenced here can vary
between models, so use the appropriate ETM to ID them.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL
(malfunction indicator lamp).
• If the MIL doesn’t come on, or it comes on and
stays on, refer to MIL Basics on this page.
• If the MIL comes on for two seconds and then goes
off, go to step 2.
2. Check for battery voltage at the positive wire going
to the coil, and at the positive wire going to the ICM.
• If you have battery voltage, go to step 3.
• If you don’t have battery voltage, check for an
open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and the
coil.
3. Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative terminal
and ground, and record the cranking voltage two ways:
first with the wire between the coil and ICM connected,
then with it disconnected.
• If you get about 8 V with the wire connected and
10 V with it disconnected, install a new coil, and
retest.
• If you get about 10 V with the wire connected and
disconnected, install a new ICM, and retest.

Another way to test it is with a test lite,,connect a test lite
1 lead to the neg side of the coil the other to any good ground,
have someone crank the engine,
if test lite pulsesÂ* it is a bad COIL ..
if test lite does NOT pulse it is a bad IGNITER