I have a 92 Honda Accord 4 door automatic. I bought off of a guy who quit trying to fix it. Aparently the car stopped running so they put a new distributor in it and when they went to start it the 50 amp ignition fuse blows. It blows when you turn key right before you would start it? I unplugged all the fuses (and with continuity tester went load side of fuse to ground) and and it still shows dead short on the 50 amp ignition fuse under hood. Does the key switches go bad in these cars to cause the 50 ignition fuse to blow? I even unplugged the distributor harnesses and still shos dead short??? could some one please help me?

 

It could be ignition switch or wiring short. Suggest you disconnect the ignition switch from harness and check blk/yel harness wire at connector for short to ground w/ distributor also disconnected. If you still see a short, the Blk/Yel wire is shorted somewhere in the path to the distributor.

Check circuits branching off the Blk/Yel. My manual shows a number of circuits. There is a fuse in each branch which has much lower amperage rating, so it's extremely unlikely the fault would be in any of the branch circuits since the 50A fuse has blown.

good luck

 

After a couple fuse I finaly got the distributr to smoke when I turned ignition to start. So you think the switch has a short in it? the key is loose in the ignition. should I get junk yard or new? This what the guy said that's why there were 3 distributors in the trunk. Should I still test it or just go get a new key switch?

 

All you would need is the electrical portion of the ignition switch (new for ~$50).

Since you know how to test for a short to ground, I would definitely test things first.

Start unplugging from the ignition switch, test for a short, then work backwards.

The ignition switch has a wire harness that plugs into the main harness. Follow the harness from the ignition switch to unplug it. If the short is gone, then replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch. If you still have a short, then unplug the wire harness from under the engine bay fuse box. No short = wiring harness is the problem. Still shorted = fuse box internal short.

 

Ok I followed the ignition harness down to fuse block and unplugged. I check from the factory connector on the switch side to ground nothing. Went down to the fuse block and found Blk/Yel dead short to ground. Went out to distributor and tested Blk/Yel and it's shows coninunity to ground. So looks like the wire is shorted between distributor and interior fuse block. where should I start at the fuse block or distributor?


Thanks for all your help!!!!

 

Why is it that with the distributor unplugged nothing trips.? If i disconnect battery and run ohm meter onBlk/Yel shows 22. If I hook up the battery it shows 12v. I must be reading through a ciol or soething. Just can not figure out wht it smokes the Blk/Yel wire in the distributor.

 

That blk/yel wire powers the coil and ICM. If both are unplugged, I'm guessing that the wire isn't drawing enough current to blow the fuse when it is unplugged from the distributor?

Start from either end to locate the short. Maybe the fuse box first to rule that out. I don't know how that wire is routed through the engine bay, so good luck finding the problem.

 

I test ignition switch and when I get to step 4 it does not test out.

With key in start position I do not get continunity between Wht/Blk and or Blk/Wht, Blk/Yel. With key in on position I get continunity between Wht/Blk and Blk/Yel but when I turn the key to start the continunity goed away and I move my lead over to Blk/Wht I have nothing on that wire either? Now If i put my leads on Blk/Wht and Blk/Yel and turn key to start I get continunity between those two wires ad I don't think I should???