Newbie - Electrifying a '91 Accord
#11
08-25-2011, 03:41 PM
As I get closer to diving in on this EV project, I haven't found a pre-designed adapter "plate" for the Honda transaxle and the Warp9 motor. No biggee, but I hate to have my '91 Accord off the road while I take it apart and develop and have parts and bracketry machined and fabricated - I'm enjoying driving the car as-is, the 500 miles a week I have to do.
Today, I found a GA-titled (non-salvage-title) '92 Accord, running but with a bad engine at a nearby yard. I bought it, and will do my disassembly and development design work on it, starting this weekend.
When finished and form, fit, and function checked on the '92 Accord, I can do the electric conversion quickly on my '91 daily driver, put my current good engine into the '92 car, and sell it as a used car - 91-93 Accords seem to be selling well in GA just now - $1500-4500 in Auto Trader!
Forrest
Today, I found a GA-titled (non-salvage-title) '92 Accord, running but with a bad engine at a nearby yard. I bought it, and will do my disassembly and development design work on it, starting this weekend.
When finished and form, fit, and function checked on the '92 Accord, I can do the electric conversion quickly on my '91 daily driver, put my current good engine into the '92 car, and sell it as a used car - 91-93 Accords seem to be selling well in GA just now - $1500-4500 in Auto Trader!
Forrest
#12
08-26-2011, 02:28 AM
Administrator
Seems as tho this would be a good project write up with pictures on your part..keep good records of your work and good smaller pictures in say photo bucket and if it's good, we just might publish it in here as a Forum Write up..
WheelBrokerAng
WheelBrokerAng
#14
08-29-2011, 10:42 AM
Use the "Insert Image" button above the text-typing window and refer to a URL from someplace like photobucket.
Or create the post with the "Go Advanced" button and use the attachment feature. But then they appear across the bottom of the post as thumbnails. Pros & cons of each method...
Or create the post with the "Go Advanced" button and use the attachment feature. But then they appear across the bottom of the post as thumbnails. Pros & cons of each method...
#15
08-29-2011, 10:47 AM
Good to know. I just did a projector HID install thread (in the Appearance forum), attaching the thumbnails. It's not as clear and sequential to follow as I'd like for a more complicated procedure. I'll have to investigate PhotoBucket.
Forrest
Forrest
#16
08-29-2011, 11:48 AM
Doesn't have to be photobucket, just one of those sites. Any site that can host photos. One thing is those links might go bad after a year or 2 when the pic-hosting site changes their referring syntax.
If you attach thumbnails, then you can "write" your procedure as a collection of posts. Just keep posting to your own thread with each post having the pictures that go with that post.
If you attach thumbnails, then you can "write" your procedure as a collection of posts. Just keep posting to your own thread with each post having the pictures that go with that post.
#17
08-29-2011, 01:16 PM
I would recommend using a h22 prelude trans since it has shorter gears...won't put as much stress on the electric motor. Also what clutch do you plan on using? Won't you need something that will have a little slip to it so you don't burn up the motor?
#18
08-29-2011, 01:26 PM
The motor's plenty strong - third gear is all I would normally use around town. Electric motors have 100% torque at zero rpm, and I'll use a DC motor, which deals better with the current at the first few revolutions.
The same motor is available with a GM Turbo-Hydramatic 400 tailshaft housing and U-joint yoke (the "TransWarp9"), where it can just connect onto the front of the existing driveshaft of a RWD car or light truck - no trans at all, and the whole motor fits in the tunnel.
The only reason for the clutch is to be able to easily "idle" while stopped, to run the AC compressor.
Forrest
The same motor is available with a GM Turbo-Hydramatic 400 tailshaft housing and U-joint yoke (the "TransWarp9"), where it can just connect onto the front of the existing driveshaft of a RWD car or light truck - no trans at all, and the whole motor fits in the tunnel.
The only reason for the clutch is to be able to easily "idle" while stopped, to run the AC compressor.
Forrest
#19
08-29-2011, 01:31 PM
Just joined - this seems to be a well-attended forum, and I've got lots to learn! I'll be electrifying this 1991 Accord - my brother bought it new, and save for the paint, it's in good 211K-mile shape. I'll drive it a few months to get a baseline characteristics - I'd like the swap to be transparent.
I'm a member at an electric-vehicle forum (Endless-Sphere) but will need Honda-specific information from here.
I'll be using this motor and controller -
The EMC-SM300 (Mars ME1002) is a Series Wound DC motor perfect for light truck and small car EV conversions. Continuous current of 200 amps, and 550 amps for 2 minutes. Voltages from 48 to 144 VDC. Efficiencies of up to 92%. The power is 26 KW (35 HP) continuous, and 63 KW (85 HP) peak. More powerful than the NetGain Warp 9 and ADC FB1-4001 motors.
Batteries will be lithium iron phosphate; something like a 40-60 kWh pack. My goal is a reliable 100-mile daily range, with the ability to interstate cruise at 70 and merge comfortably. Oh - and spin the tires, as well - gotta show off the torque.
First thing was to get tires; I've ordered some LRR Bridestones in the original 195-60-15 size from TireRack. I think I'll powder-coat the wheels black to match my play car.
Anyway, I hope I can pass information back to the group, should anyone else contemplate a similar project - or you can just laugh at my mis-steps
Forrest
I'm a member at an electric-vehicle forum (Endless-Sphere) but will need Honda-specific information from here.
I'll be using this motor and controller -
The EMC-SM300 (Mars ME1002) is a Series Wound DC motor perfect for light truck and small car EV conversions. Continuous current of 200 amps, and 550 amps for 2 minutes. Voltages from 48 to 144 VDC. Efficiencies of up to 92%. The power is 26 KW (35 HP) continuous, and 63 KW (85 HP) peak. More powerful than the NetGain Warp 9 and ADC FB1-4001 motors.
Batteries will be lithium iron phosphate; something like a 40-60 kWh pack. My goal is a reliable 100-mile daily range, with the ability to interstate cruise at 70 and merge comfortably. Oh - and spin the tires, as well - gotta show off the torque.
First thing was to get tires; I've ordered some LRR Bridestones in the original 195-60-15 size from TireRack. I think I'll powder-coat the wheels black to match my play car.
Anyway, I hope I can pass information back to the group, should anyone else contemplate a similar project - or you can just laugh at my mis-steps
Forrest
If you haven't gotten your rims powder coated yet, you should try Plasti Dipping them instead. It's a lot cheaper and if you decide you don't like it you can peel it off and you're only out $12 for 2 cans of it and a couple hours of work+dry time. Just a thought before you spend a couple hundred on the rims! If you want black Plasti Dip is the cheap way to go. Cheap and durable and you could always clear coat and buff it if you want a shinier and tougher finish to it. You sound like a DIYer so I figured I should throw that idea your way
#20
08-29-2011, 01:45 PM
Hey - I like the Plasti-dip idea!
What I wound up doing was getting 15" spun aluminum MoonEyes discs, like on a rat rod or LSR car. I'm painting them now to match the Bordeaux red body color - using many coats of color-matched, thinned, foam-roller-rolled-on enamel from Sherwin-Williams, then cut with 1000-grit on up to rub-out and wax.
I painted most of the white car in my album that way, with a roller and enamel.
Forrest
What I wound up doing was getting 15" spun aluminum MoonEyes discs, like on a rat rod or LSR car. I'm painting them now to match the Bordeaux red body color - using many coats of color-matched, thinned, foam-roller-rolled-on enamel from Sherwin-Williams, then cut with 1000-grit on up to rub-out and wax.
I painted most of the white car in my album that way, with a roller and enamel.
Forrest