Question, i have a 09 accord ex with a standard 6 disc head unit and regular sound system, nothing fancy. I wanted to add some bass to the car with out taking out the factory head unit as the newer accord dash boards are large and the radio is a big part of the intergrated dash board. I am wondering if there is a way to add and amp and one subwooferand keep the factory head unit, also if its gonna sound good or just ok. I know if i bought a new head unit and ran it to a sub and amp it would be good but it would disturb the natural feel of the dashboard having an after market head unit ( the real reason is my wife not having it lol, but dont tell anyone ok!). PLease comment looking forward to some pics and user input..

 

all you need is the:
amp
sub
box
wiring
and a line out converter

if you only plan on putting the sub and amp in you can tie the loc into the rear speakers and run the rca's from that to the amp.

the stock system is not terrible in an accord. but as long as you are buying good stuff the more you do the better it will sound. in my opinion if you were just going to do one thing add a sub. i love the extra bass. a lot of people will say that changing the speakers is a better move or even amping the stock speakers. like i said i feel adding a sub is going to make the most significant difference.


stay away from walmart and if you have a little time to do the work and to research how you will save a lot of money by staying away from car audio shops.


my old subs. everything in front of the trunk is completely stock when the picture was taken

also the box is going to have a big effect on how the sub sounds. dont buy a premade box at the store instead build one to manufacturer spec out of 3/4 mdf and you will be much happier.

 

So I take it that the line out converter, converts speaker wired to rca? So that they can be tied.into the amp? If so where does.the converter get tied into somewhere behind the head unit? Or can it tie directly into the rear speaker wires? Also I will need to run a ground and a power line from the battery correct? Is.there a spot on the firewall that allows me to run this wire and did you run the ground power and rca all along the same side if the car and get alternate noise .. thaks again

 

[quote=frezel;238136]So I take it that the line out converter, converts speaker wired to rca?
yes
So that they can be tied.into the amp?
correct
If so where does.the converter get tied into somewhere behind the head unit? Or can it tie directly into the rear speaker wires?
it can be tied in directly to the speaker wires going to the rear speakers. simply splice into those wires and connect your new leads to the loc.
Also I will need to run a ground and a power line from the battery correct?
power wire from the battery. ground wire to somewhere in the trunk . the shorter the better. it needs to be the same guage as the power wire. the best place to ground in the trunk is the top of the strut tower. take one of the nuts off sand all paint from that area and ground there. knukonceptz.com has good pricing on good wire kits. power wire needs to be fused.
Is.there a spot on the firewall that allows me to run this wire and did you run the ground power and rca all along the same side if the car and get alternate noise .. thaks again
there is a gromet where the main power comes into your car on the battery side. if your battery is on the driver side like mine look over the strut tower from in the hood and you can see it. then puncture the gromet go into your cab and pull the kick panel. you should be able to see where your punctured the gromet. the loc can be mounted in the trunk. if you look at my picture you will see the rca cables coiled and sitting on top of my sub box. if you wire in behind the head unit run the rca cables on the opposite side as the power cable. [/quote]
answers in red

what is your budget and what are you looking for. do you want the bass pissing your neighbors off or do you want it to have good sound quality. if you want both you are looking at spending some money.

 

does the loc have a remote amp turn on sensing feature? or do i need to wire amp to ignition or something down that line.

recomendation:

1. For a LOC to support 2 x 8 inch kicker solobaric tube setup with a orion hcaa 225 amp setup.

2. if i decided to replace head unit recommend one for me, either a dvd in dash double din or a regular single din unit with no video

 

Also any one have pics of there 09 accord dashboard, one with a dual din config vs a single config would like to see how it looks

 

just get a pac universal loc if you are going to only run subs. cost about 30 dollars. the loc is only on when it recieves a signal. you will need to run a remote wire to the amp from the accessorie fuse in your car.

that amp is not powerful enough to push solobarics. the l7 requires 325 watts rms and the l5 needs 300. so you will need a 600 to a 650 watt amp rms. also you depending on how you wire them you will either need a very powerful amp say 3k watts to get that kind of power at 4 ohms or a 1 ohm stable amp.

are your ac controls digital through your radio? if so you cannot replace the headunit. you can only add an additional head unit.

 

Hmm I had this amp push both these speakers in the past, it only a 8 inch speaker the Orion competition hcaa amp I use to have did well, I was thinking about reducing that amp, when I get time I will take picks of.he kicker tubes I'm talking about, thy have.been sitting around for many years and was.wondering if I should just replace the woofers.and keep he enclosures. Anyway do you have pics of your dash with your after market unit? Would like o see how.it looks I can't find any o9 accords with pics of replaced.head units.

 

i cannot replace my head unit because my ac controls are digital. i am in the process of reduing the entire sound system in the car right now. i am putting a eq in the lower dash mount kit. when i get it installed i will post pictures.

it will be the stock stereo with an eq.

if the woofers sound good then dont replace them. i had my solobarics forever. they were 2000 models and they still sounded like new when i sold them a couple of months ago. the only reason i got rid of them was i decided that i cared less about spl and more about sq. they were definately loud but they were all i could hear if i turned the radio up. they made my whole car vibrate which was cool for a while but not really what i was looking for.

solobarics will respond at very low levels of power but you arent getting what you paid for if you push them so low. i had two l7 10s in my car. i pushed them with a 600 watt amp and they did respond and put out some bass. i got a 2000 watt amp and it made a world of difference.

the size of the diameter of the speaker does not matter much when it comes to wattage. the manufacturer gives you the specs of what the motor on the woofer requires. they have done extensive testing and development of their product which is why i go with what the manufacturer says. many, many people will tell you when building a box to build it bigger than spec for better results. i still do what manufacturer specs are. they give these parameters to ensure the equipment will work well and last. it is up to you whether or not you do this. it is your equipment.

as i said my solobarics would respond at much lower wattage but you really wasted your money buying solobarics if you arent going to feed them the power they want. if you only wanted to push 200 watts you would get better performance out of subs made in that wattage range.

 

cool man thanks for the advise and look forward to seeing pics of your car. The more i think about it i might just go ahead and get a pioneer avh p2300 dvd head unit, but not sure yet. I know i have to buy an amp but i guess ill spin it around what i decide to do with the subs. ill get some pics up of my progress as i do things