Hi 1st post here, need some advice.

I drive a 2007 Honda Accord Coupe EX - thinking of ordering Polk Audio DB-651's for my front doors. My rear speakers are blown and I plan on removing them and just purchasing a sub and an amp.

Being the complete car speaker noob that I am, I have no idea what to get. Any suggestions for the best speakers/sub/amp for 400-500 bucks? (front 6 1/2" speakers plus an affordable sub with enclosure/amp)

Thanks in advance,
J

 

Polk speakers are fine - but don't get coaxials up front. you have factory components - get components up front. There are plenty choices out there in the $100 component set category. Alpine, Polk, Infinity, MB Quart, Pioneer, etc.

Here is my recommendation (prices from Sonic Electronix):

Amplifier - Powerbass ASA-600.4x. $200. A 4 channel amp that can run the front components and a single 12" sub (bridged @4 ohms)

Speakers - Boston Acoustics S60. $110. Shallow 6.5" comp set with good sound.
or - Alpine SPS-600C. $90. Standard entry level Alpine

Sub (needs to be 4ohm SVC or 2ohm DVC)- Xtant A212S enclosed 12" sub. $75. A killer price on a good quality 12" sub.
or - Kicker 07VC124 enclosed 12" sub. $125. Standard entry level Kicker.

And you'll need a 4awg amp kit (Streetwires or Rockford Fosgate)
You'll need 4 channel RCA's (you can get one set in an amp kit).
And to get the signal from your factory radio - you need a Line Output Converter (LOC) with an auto-turn on feature.
PAC-Audio AOEM-HON20
http://pac-audio.com/productDetails....&CategoryID=28

 

Other amp options for less money (and half as much power)
MB Quart DSC-480
Powerbass ASA-400.4x
Rockford Fosgate R300-4

It is important that you don't power aftermarket speakers from a factory system. the factory system is very low wattage - 20W or so, and the factory speakers are very efficient. aftermarket speakers need more power to really perform and sound decent.

use the factory tweeter locations for ease. locate the component speaker crossovers behind the dash or in the glove box to keep wiring short. you can access the factory speaker wires behind the head unit, but you'll have to run a wire from the crossover to the tweeter (don't use factory wiring for the tweeter).

i agree with your idea to just remove the rear speakers and do a components set up front and sub in the trunk. that's a very good platform.

 

Wow keep_hope_alive, thanks for all the great info man, truly appreciated

Looks like I will go with the front components instead. I am very anxious to install a system in my car. I financed this car 5 months ago and the speakers have been blown since...I NEED MY MUSIC!

I am prepared to purchase all of your recommendations from Sonic Electronix that you've mentioned in the first post. (Powerbass ASA-600.4x, Boston Acoustics S60, Xtant A212S) As for the 4awg amp kit and RCA, can you also link me to them on Sonic or another site with the best prices? You linked me to the LOC already, correct?

Again, thank you for your help. Is there any other info you can share before I submit my order today?

J

 

StreetWires ZN1K-04
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s+ZN1K-04.html

Monster Cable 401-XLN-4C-4M
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...01+4C-4M-.html

And you need some 16awg speaker wire (available anywhere, even walmart)

Or one kit with everything (amp kit with RCA's and speaker wire)
Rockford Fosgate RFK4D
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ate+RFK4D.html

 

as far as the installation goes - check out my build log. i take very detailed photos of the entire process.

link is in my signature.

 

Awesome. All ordered and the waiting begins.

Here's what I got:
Powerbass ASA-400.4x
Boston Acoustics S60
Xtant A212S
Monster Cable 401-XLN-4C-4M
StreetWires PSK04R

TOTAL: 440 plus shipping

Gonna pick up the 16awg wire and Line Output Converter sometime this week. I have a friend who is going to help with the installation - I wanna have the system wired to the best of its ability. The link from your sig is very helpful too. Hoping to have everything installed this time next week...wish me luck.

 

that's a very decent system for $500, you saved a lot of money. Having the larger amp would have gotten you more output from the sub, but you could always add a sub amp down the road and bridge the 400.4x to your front speakers if you feel you need more power. regardless, i think it'll be better than whatever was there before!

installation is so important. don't rush anything. i spent over an hour just perfecting my sub wiring (solder, heat shrink, split loom, etc.)

the speaker installation is very important. I have a sticky thread in this section as an example. the key is weatherstripping foam - closed cell. you need to make a good seal between the door and speaker. It is important to make this a rigid baffle. you also need a good seal between the front of the speaker and the factory door panel/grill. foam is key here as well. make good seals in those two key locations and you'll have much better midbass response.

tweeter placement is also important. i find velcro handy for testing. put the soft side on several places - dash, apillar, sail panel, etc. and test the tweeter locations before you mount them. i do tweeters last. once everything is installed, speakers, crossovers, amps, sub, etc. you should test your speaker locations. this may take hours, a day, or weeks depending on how picky you are. velcro lets you drive around during testing, if necessary.

i can do an entire basic system in a car in a full weekend - so about 20 hours of labor.

here are some example installations - basic installs of mine for friends
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre...=3#Post1400581

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre...=3#Post1755977

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre...=3#Post1625041

this was another install that may give you some ideas for mounting. I had this before the Accord while in college (hence the lower budget)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/337617

really, the Accord build log is detailed enough to show you what good connections look like, how to route wire, etc.

don't be afraid to remove panels, seats, console, etc. The first thing I do is remove the front and rear seats, remove the center console, remove the door panels, remove the trunk panels, and remove the head unit. you can usually route signal wires (RCA) down the center fishing the wire under the carpet without needing to remove the carpet. power wire can be on the driver's side but on the floor (not just under the trim panels). you'll probably have to remove the b-pillar panels and the front seat belt bolt to pull the carpet back far enough - the wire routing in my Accord build log should give you the idea.

mounting the amp and sub is key. mounting them separate is recommended. cut a wood board just larger than the amp. screw the wood board to the vehicle somehow, and screw the amp to the board. don't screw an amp directly to the vehicle. use some L-brackets to hold the sub box in place once you finalize the location. test the sub location - in every location you can think of. try the rear corners, front corners, etc. try facing in, back, forward, up, etc. i found the rear corner to be a great location for a single enclosed sub.

i like to dress my wires with split loom whenever they are visible - especially in the engine bay.

 

this is a good link for more info:

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre.../1#Post1318392

especially check out the MECA, IASCA, and USACi installation rules. If you follow those rules you will have a very safe installation.

 

Ugh....

I've installed the everything.

Powerbass ASA-400.4x (800 watts max)
Boston Acoustics S60 (RMS 130 watts)
Xtant A212S (RMS 250 watts)
Monster Cable 401-XLN-4C-4M
StreetWires PSK04R
PAC A-OEM HON20 Line Output converter

And I have 2 major problems:

1. The speakers work and sound good but there is an obvious hissing sound.

2. I listen to them for 10 minutes and the sound from the speakers cut out. My friend tells me the Line Output converter is bad. My initial thought is my amp is too weak. All the connections from the wires are secure.

Any thoughts? I drive a 2007 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L, no nav with seat heaters..