I have a Pioneer DEH-P3900 MP
I have little experience with car audio system but look forward to do more reasearch
so I may have to have someone else or even bring it in to a shop

Im not really looking for something that blasts the heck outta ya just something that sounds clear with quality
My brother moved out a while back and left me his MTX Thunder 280 Amp and 2 10" Rockford Punch Z
Not sure bout all the specs and wattage but mathematically would this amp work or be ok with my Pioneer and the Rockford 10" ???

Also looking to buy new speakers, thinking of JL Audio kinda new to all this so not sure, anyone prefer that over Infinity Kappas???

 

Here is a link, or two,to a review of this stereo.
http://www.carsound.com/review_archi...DEH-P9300.html
http://www.carreview.com/cat/car-aud...3_2861crx.aspx
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...EH-P9300?tab=B
You can add an amplifier.
Here is what I found on the 280.
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/ampg...X_Thunder_280/
It is a 2 channel amp of modest power...only 160 watts bridged at 4ohms...meaning it may "barely" power 2 10" subs but should power 1 of them in a decent enclosure modestly.

The stereo itself seems to be highly regarded but costly. The cost is mainly due to the OLED screen...fancy.
JL speakersare nice speakers, in my opinion, and there are some co-axials that your hu will power.
I suggest you grab some of your favorite songs and head to your local shops and listen to what they offer for speakers. What we hear is so personal that it is nearly impossible to recommend anything other than brands that are known for quality.
If you do use the amp to power the subs and the hu to power your speakers I believe you will find that the sub dramatically out powers the speakers unless the gain and settings are set to match your hu power output. It can work but will be very limited.

If you go this way, buy the best quality speakers you can afford and your hu will power. If in the future you want a bit more power to the speakers you can buy a modest power 4 channel or 2 channel amp...depending on how many speakers you want to use...that matches your MTX amp/sub and have a nice system that is not a budget buster.
Keep us informed on what you do.

 

I absolutely love my JLs. I have heard infinity reference kappas and I wasn't very happy with the sound. They were way too harsh for my taste. My JLs are so bright and clear yet never harsh. I listen to mostly ska core and rock, and if you do too harshness is a concern.

 

Thanks for the info guys, very informative
I already have the HU Pioneer DEH-P3900 MP, MTX Thunder 280 Amp and 2 10" Rockford Punch Z
So i will be sticking with them for now
Kai Winters not sure which HU u checked but mine was only bout $120 no fancy OLED screen

I most likely will be buying the JL Audio TR650-CSi Component System
(Getting Front only keeping back stock)
I "think" this is correct, my HU should provide bout 30 rms?
And for the JL audio TR650 50 rms?
So in getting this the output should sound ok?

Another thing, i'm not ordering the speakers from this site, but the message shows
Note: JL Audio describes this model as a 6-1/2" speaker. Most manufacturers designate this same frame size as a 6-3/4" speaker. For simplicity's sake we list it as a 6-3/4" speaker.
[/align]I'm hoping if I do buy this speaker component it would fit?
[/align]http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GfkbkSm...0CSI+6%2E5inch

 

I would recomend Boston Acoustics SX60 crutchfield has them on sale for 199.99 they sound awesome in our demo borad at my store

 

[align=right]Yes the 6.5"s will fit with minor trimming of the stock mounting panel. The stock speaker is a 6.5" but the cut out is smaller then the cut out for an after market 6.5". The TR line of JL isn't the best entry level system. The TRs sound a bit more dull and not *** punchy, but still very clear. I recommend doing what I did, invest the $350 get a good pair of speakers up front and a amp. Remove the rear stock speakers as they only make the sound worse. Then when you have enough money get the rear pair get a pair of 6x9s or 6.5" with a mounting adapter. I'm not completly satisfied with my VR6x9s, they have textile dome tweets like the TRs. So they are a bit muffled in the high end, but then they're punchier in the lower end than the 6.5"s. They also don't come in component just coaxial. But invest the money in a quality system and it will be most worthwhile. [/align]

 

The motor structure is small on the sx60 and you probly dont have to modify anything. the sx60 used a neodidum magnet so its way strong and better then a standard magnet

 

I dont recommend buying speakers without having listened to them. I realize some people live out in the boondocks and dont have a lot of shops near by but if you do, youre doing yourself a GREAT disservice by blind buying them. Speakers make or break your system and if you listen the heavy metal and buy a set of bright and thin sounding speakers (as in Infinity) youre gonna be hating life. Look up some different brands online and hit their dealer locator and grab your favorite CD and go hit some shops for a demo.

 

i think the amp would push the punch's fine.... i had a two P1's on a 500wrms amp once and it was decently loud, until one of them froze up..... thus meaning they dont take much power at all to get them moving.. i have 2 12" kicker comp cvr's now, they are really power hungry, im giving them each 500wrms, and with the gain up all the way and even (heaven forbid you use this) the bass boost all the way up they move alot, but i think they could still take more power... they are underrated, they recommend 400wrms iirc but they handle 500 like it's nothing, they actually seem like they need more.. and i know it's getting real 500 watts because it's coming from an alpine mrdm10005

 

For the speakers you can get a speaker as deep as 2.54" for the mounting depth and be fine. I used to run DLS Iridiums in my '01 and they fit fine. I do suggest creating your own baffle. When you take the stock speakers out, you'll see a black plastic piece behind the speaker...that's the baffle, but make one using 1/2" MDF. All you need to do is trace the stock one and cut it out and then cut out the mounting circle according to the speaker. You will have gaps possibly between the door and the baffle so grab some sound deadener (Dynamat works fine but is too expensive and there are other products that are better and less expensive), and apply it to seal the gaps. It sounds like a lot of work, but it is very easy.

If you get anything larger than 2.54" you may be facing some issues. The number one thing is to make sure you have clearance when the window is down and at the shortest point from the window to the door or baffle, whichver you use. I have Zapco mids in the doors now and they are 2.87" deep and I have to use 1.25" baffles but because the basket it big, I had to cut the doors a little bit. Using the 1/2" baffle and provided the basket width wont hit the actual door, you don't have to worry about cutting the door or the door panel.

If you go with a component set, buy an amplifier. The head unit itself won't provide enough power to the speakers. The Phoenix Gold RSD's components have been a huge bandwagon the past few months. I haven't heard them myself though. I've heard Crystal CSX components before and they sound VERY nice. Looking into the Crystal Mobilesound products.

Alot of it depends on how much you want to spend and how you want your setup to sound. I ran my stock speakers off an RF 500a2 and they got considerably loud and sounded much better than being hooked up to the head unit.

Here are specs to your amp: http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/MTX_Thunder_280/

Here are specs to your sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SOpRQ1D...x?I=575RFZ2410

If your subs are single 4 ohm like the link shows, then you'd run each speaker seperately to the amp getting 40w each, which is fine, but the subs will take more than twice that power. I would have recommended wiring the subs together, but that would give the amp a 2 ohm load which the amp can take bridged but I wouldn't recommend it because it can run hot and go into protect. Plus, that amp is rated at 12.5V so expect a tad more out of it.