another option besides the clean sweep is the PAC AOEM-HON20. this would save you from cutting any wires and provides RCA outputs and a remote turn on (and it's cheaper than the clean sweep).

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28

 

Thank you so much for these resources. I'll be reading over them in awhile and will edit this post if i have more questions.

I do plan to add a sub too, will another amp with a mono channel be necessary? I do believe so, just checking.

??? Do you think that the cleansweep's sound flattening processor is not worth the money??? It also seems as if I'd need to get a separate adapter for the ipod connectivity.

 

some factory head units have a built-in EQ, some do not. it's complicated to determine what your unit has. the benefit of the aftermarket solutions by JL, MTX, AudioControl, Rockford Fosgate, etc. do allow for compensation of factory EQ. it's need varies.

for most people, the PAC-Audio interface is 100x easier and faster to install. If you want the CleanSweep, take it to a shop.

a mono amp (like a JL 250/1 or 500/1) is great for subs. however, you can also use a 4 channel amp for fronts and a sub. you just need to carefully consider your desired impedance load, and match amplifier ratings.

 

I do feel the PAC component will be better suited for me, I am on a budget haha.

so this will allow me to hook up to my headunit, then to the amp, and from the amp to the subwoofer? I know im a bit repetitive with this but I dont know how the amp works now.

 

yes, that adapter will take the amplified signal from the factory head unit and pull a low level signal and remote turn on for additional amplifiers.

you'll run RCA cables and a remote wire from this adapter to the new amplifier. you'll also run power wire from the battery to the amp, and ground the amp.

the amplifier will power the subwoofer.

 

Ok, once again thank you so much for the help. I know it can get annoying repeating the basic info again and again in each thread, but i appreciate the help really.

couple more things, i think i'm getting the Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-4 channel amp to power my system for now.

1. Will this be enough power from the get go?
2. If i get a 4 ohm sub and have two 4 ohm 6x9's in the rear, can i bridge two channels for the sub and send the other two to the rear speakers?
3. If i dont get the sub until later and want to power, say 2 40 watt rms front door 6.5 speakers and the two rears, will the higher power rating damage the front speakers?

 

I wouldn't completely agree with that. I've installed quite a few stereos and I consistently use the $7 Scosche wiring harnesses. However, I ONLY get the dash install kits from Best Buy for $20 or so.

For my subs I bought a 2 or 4 ga (I can't remember) wiring kit off eBay for $30, AudioPipe was the brand and it was a great kit and still is.

I really would recommend the above if you aren't an audio expert who is going to spend thousands of dollars on a system.

 

after reading keep_hope_alive's build log, he must have spent a fortune on his components to make his system shine the way it does. In his situation I would probably only use the good stuff. You're right though, I'm going the cheaper route and keeping it a simple audio enhancement, not an overhaul.

To the OP, i feel I've completely stolen this thread, my bad. It has gotten a few questions that I've had, answered by some pros. Hopefully you too have gotten some things resolved.

To keep things going though, I'd still like to know if that amp I'm looking at (the rockford) will have enough power for me. I'd like to get some bass out of my rears and keep the clarity at high volumes on the fronts, would 50 watts to each component do the trick?

thanks guys.

 

I have a question... I probably know the answer but cant live with that fact because i feel like such a dummy. but here:

I have recently gotten some aftermarket front and rear speakers (in my sig) and have a new amplifier on its way. (Power Acoustik STAX 1600/4 (STAX1600/4)) Now here's the thing, i want to power my 4 main speakers with this amplifier but just realized the rated RMS power of the amp would blow away the 6.5s in the front... Is there anything i can do to make this work?

A subwoofer will be coming soon too, but in the meantime i'd like to have my whole system powered up. Is this a lost cause?

 

i haven't spent a fortune on components, i'm a savvy shopper and i bought very nice gear used from nice people. so while the retail value of my gear is high, i got some great deals.

my biggest investment is time - hundreds of hours logged so far. example, one evening i'll spend 3+ hours terminating and labeling wires at the amp. I take my time and do it right. sometimes i redo something because i want to make subtle changes, and i don't want to cut corners for a change. in the coming months i'll be fabricating a new trunk layout from scratch. that means all of my custom mounts and the time spent brainstorming a very functional layout is gone... but not wasted. i learn something new every time i fabricate something.

I like Metra and Scosche adapters and kits. I like PAC-Audio OEM interfaces. Walmart has some very basic wire harnesses or mounting kits. I don't hate on their split loom, heat shrink, terminals, etc. But Walmart's amp kits, speakers, head units, amps, etc. are bottom barrel stuff - nothing i'd trust in my car or an install i'm doing for someone else. course, i don't shop at Walmart in general, i can buy anything they have elsewhere for damn near the same price and better quality.

simple installs usually suffer from poor installation techniques. doing it right takes time. each connection is important. wire routing is important. heat shink is cheap, and it only takes a few minutes per termination to protect it properly.

all of the extra effort i've put into my connections and routing ensures that i won't be plagued by problems. My installations work well, and do so for many years.


first, Power Acoustic amps are very overrated. second, music is dynamic and power output is always varying. most of the time, you're only giving the speakers a few watts (regardless of the amp you have). the speakers will only get as much power as the volume **** and gain adjustment allow. having more power than you need is the key to low distortion. you'll be just fine with that amp on the speakers listed as long as you are careful with gain settings.