install subs to a 2006 stock deck~Help Please
#2
visit the Pacific Accessory Coporation website, enter your vehicle information, and you will see a selection of OEM interfaces. David Navone (google it) has good products as well (less sophistated). A standard line output converter (with auto turn-on) can be wired in parallel with your rear deck speakers (6x9). that will give you the RCA output needed for the sub amp. Obviously, you'll also need an amplifier wiring kit (power and ground) with appropriate fusing, grommets, etc.
the biggest trick is the remote turn-on. if you get a LOC that includes auto sensing it makes it easier. or some amps (JL Audio slash series) incorporate high level intputs and auto turn on circuitry so it's simple plug and play (no interface needed).
how much more detailed do you need? have you done successful installations before?
the biggest trick is the remote turn-on. if you get a LOC that includes auto sensing it makes it easier. or some amps (JL Audio slash series) incorporate high level intputs and auto turn on circuitry so it's simple plug and play (no interface needed).
how much more detailed do you need? have you done successful installations before?
#3
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In general, it would be more easy to also buy an aftermarket head unit that has RCA pre-outs. 4V and higher are better, but 2v are usually most common.
Power wire with an inline fuse UNDER THE HOOD to the amplifier.
Negative wire from amp to a bolt in the trunk.
RCA wires plugged into back of stereo, run on opposite side of car as power wires, plug into amp.
The wires should also have a small wire between the RCA's. This is the remote turn on wire.
wire the outputs on the amp to the subs correctly. If not you can fry the amp.
Thats it. Besides the wiring harness kit $7 and dash install kit $20. Buy your wiring kit off eBay. Got mine, came with everything needed, 2 ga wiring, brand new for $30. Best Buy will charge you 80-100. The brand was audiopipe.
Power wire with an inline fuse UNDER THE HOOD to the amplifier.
Negative wire from amp to a bolt in the trunk.
RCA wires plugged into back of stereo, run on opposite side of car as power wires, plug into amp.
The wires should also have a small wire between the RCA's. This is the remote turn on wire.
wire the outputs on the amp to the subs correctly. If not you can fry the amp.
Thats it. Besides the wiring harness kit $7 and dash install kit $20. Buy your wiring kit off eBay. Got mine, came with everything needed, 2 ga wiring, brand new for $30. Best Buy will charge you 80-100. The brand was audiopipe.
#4
the stock unit is an in-dash 6 disc changer with XM sat radio and has integrated cosmetics. the Metra 99-7864 and American International kits look like crap in comparison. unless you need specific features not offered by a stock HU, or are looking for high sound quality, retaining the stock HU is much easier than replacing it. besides, his HU has integrated climate controls. he isn't going to remove it.
more often (anymore) replacing the stock HU isn't an option for >95% of the population with new vehicles - due to factory integration/theft deterrence/price/etc. the increase in good quality OEM interfaces (Rockford Fosgate 3sixty, JL Audio clean sweep, Audiocontrol LC8i, etc.) allow people to easily and cleanly integrate with the stock HU while replacing speakers, adding amps, processing, etc.
besides, if all you want is some subs and are happy with the stock speakers, an add-on sub and amp combo is pretty straightforward.
in fact, in that model/year, it is much easier to just add an aftermarket HU in the pocket beneath the factory HU - there is even a kit for it: Metra 99-7862
to the OP. the best solution for you is the JL Audio Clean Sweep with Sub interface (and remote level control). but your cheapest option is the PAC SOEM-T 2ch line output converter w/ auto amp turn-on (google it).
#5
i am just transferring my system from my 4runner. got all the wires and stuff. where do i hook up the remote wire from the amp too? i've always hooked this up myself but never to stock radio. thanks for all the help...
#6
the LOC's i described above include a remote turn on by sensing the signal. otherwise, you need to get inside the factory radio and solder a wire to a pin in the harness (that is missing a wire) in order to get a turn-on signal. to find that pin you need to use your DMM. use a blue wire (or blue/white for consistency) and put a 0.5A inline fuse on it just as it leaves the radio. lastly, but an insulated spade terminal on the end so you still remove the radio without cutting that wire each time.
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