Welcome, boys and girls, to another installment of KHA's build log. I've done several, and over the past 20 years I have learned a lot.

Starting with a new platform. A 2014 Accord Sport.

System will consist of the factory head unit (BT with Pandora and vehicle integration) that will feed an Alpine CDA-9887. The Imprint kit will be used with the HU.
An Audison LRx-5.1k will likely be the amp and will be ran active to the Hertz MLK-165 and a Hertz ML3000.

I will connect the factory HU output into a LOC with source equalization (like a JL Cleansweep or similar) and feed the 9887 AUX input.

The 9887 will act as a pre-amp in most situations. It will be interesting to see what I need to do to control noise.

The active noise cancelling mics (there are two) will be defeated using relays that also tie to the sub output. I want the ability to take advantage of noise cancelling when the music is low or off while driving clients and co-workers around.

I pulled the door panels soon to examine available space... more on that later.

Step 1 will be to remove the interior panels and find a spot to hide the alarm system. A Viper 5706v is planned. Brain will not be under the dash in a standard location. I believe in security systems and hiding all components. You won't see pictures of this just as you didn't see pictures of the alarm in my 2001 Accord.

Step 2 will be to build the mount for the 9887 in place of the silly pocket in the dash.

Step 3 will be to pull the door panels and build mounts for the Mille woofers. I need 3" for the Mille woofers. it will be tight. The tweeters will first be mounted using stock sail panel tweeter mounts from an EX sedan. $20 each.

Step 4 will be to build the amp rack to mount the Audison LRx-5.1k. I have two locations planned, the preferred location is in place of the factory foam piece that holds the jack and spare tire accessories. I can build a mount that incorporates a hinged amp rack AND spare tire accessories.

Step 5 will be a sealed fiberglass enclosure in the trunk that holds the Mille sub. This enclosure will likely feature a locking quick release mount that will allow me to remove it for family trips. End result will be the ability to remove the sub enclosure and the trunk will be stock.

This will be built to compete in Stock class but maybe Modified if acoustical treatments or removal of metal push me into it.



Here are some pics of the car. I'm a huge fan of the cosmetics. I like the inside even more than the exterior.

 

time to open the door and see what i'm working with.










The black rubber covering is very thin. This will be quickly replaced (or covered) with Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) for improved noise isolation.


the factory 6.5" speaker has a plastic adapter that is 3/4" thick on the top and there is about 1/2" of thickness on the stock door panel where a thin plastic lip meets up with the speaker foam ring:






the speaker opening has a mushroom shape because Honda thought using screws at three corners was time consuming.




this limits available diameter and explains why most sites (like Crutchfield) recommend a 5-1/4" speaker for the front. a shallow mount and/or neo-magnet 6.5" speaker would probably fit fine with a standard adapter.


the good news is that the window stops before it gets too far into the opening


but depth is nearly unlimited


the depth from the metal opening to the window (at the top of the opening) is 2".



... so it looks like i'll be cutting metal to get the Hertz ML165 woofers in the doors. Woo Hoo!

one alternative to cutting metal is to cut out the factory grill opening, then fabricate a filler for the factory grill that allows the woofer to come up flush with the door panel - using the speaker's grill instead. this wouldn't be that difficult to fabricate and if covered in black vinyl it could look decent. the stock grill looks like it could be restrictive to high frequencies... and for the nearest speaker it is. this trim level doesn't have tweeters and the stock woofers play pretty high up into the treble range. i can quickly tell that most of the treble comes from the right speaker. an RTA of both will confirm if the angle of the door is limiting response below what I want. if so, then the door panel will need to be modified.

 

thought you wanted an exl?

cant wait to see more pics.

 

can't justify another $5-7k for leather, plus with "smart start" you cannot do a remote start and keep the car running when you get in. I got this with 26k miles for $22,250. The Sport is just fantastic value with features I wanted.

I found some companies that can do full custom leather seats for under a grand. if i wanted leather, that is how i'll do it. I like the seats as-is though.

you made a good choice too!

 

coo man.

did quite a few mods. sure you dont need advice but i did a lot to mine.

 

i appreciate anything you share. any tips or tricks for disassembly, etc. are appreciated. any wiring diagrams, etc.

 

9th Gen Aftermarket Stereo Install Links - Drive Accord Honda Forums

and on wiring at the radio harness. if you pull back the split loom some, the wires for speakers are twisted together for each pair.

 

also i used the purple wire(bigger gauge wire) for my 12v on my LOC. it is a non-constant 12v.

 

Lake Michigan in the reflection.



recent 900 mile trip yielded excellent economy

 

wow nice. ive hit 38 a few times but never 40. im sure if i kept if below 70 i would though