monster cap
#11
RE: monster cap
ORIGINAL: steviebix
i just bought a 1 farad monster cap for 150 dollars, expecting it to take ALL the dim outta my headlights, tails, gauges, etc. i ONLY HAVE one 400-watt amp for my subs. thats it. and they still dim, after i installed it. shouldnt it be not dimming at all? i dont have that much power running thru my car...
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i just bought a 1 farad monster cap for 150 dollars, expecting it to take ALL the dim outta my headlights, tails, gauges, etc. i ONLY HAVE one 400-watt amp for my subs. thats it. and they still dim, after i installed it. shouldnt it be not dimming at all? i dont have that much power running thru my car...
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#12
RE: monster cap
tru: I agree that he paid a bit too much, but not that bad. I think that my cap with voltage readout cost about $100. What do you mean by "charge"? A capacitor will get to it's full charge in under 1-2 seconds. Remember, their purpose is to charge and discharge very quickly.
#13
RE: monster cap
i bought a 2 farad power acostik farad for 100..2 farad was suppost to hold up to 2000 watts, my crossfire amp only puts out 1200 watts and my headlights still blink.
Overall, upgrade the alternator then the battery. I learned my lesson. Never buy a cap unless u got money to throw away. Its nice to show off, especially the cap i have cuz its lights beat to the bass.
You should upgrade the alternator first before getting the battery. The alternator is what recharges the battery.
Overall, upgrade the alternator then the battery. I learned my lesson. Never buy a cap unless u got money to throw away. Its nice to show off, especially the cap i have cuz its lights beat to the bass.
You should upgrade the alternator first before getting the battery. The alternator is what recharges the battery.
#14
RE: monster cap
chances are good that your 2F cap doesn't hold even half of that charge. If your amp is putting out 1200W RMS, then the stock alt can't handle it. 600-900 W RMS is about the limit.
#15
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
RE: monster cap
I had the same problem but insted of getting a new battery or alternator, I added a self made ground wire kit to my car. check out this link:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ubbthread...e/1#Post312025
It is called the "Big Three"
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine
http://www.sounddomain.com/ubbthread...e/1#Post312025
It is called the "Big Three"
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine
#16
RE: monster cap
ORIGINAL: falkore24
hmmmm ..... where's the logic in the HID thing ....... HID's take LESS power than stocks.
hmmmm ..... where's the logic in the HID thing ....... HID's take LESS power than stocks.
#17
RE: monster cap
first u got played paying 150 for a 1 farad cap. i bought 2 farad power acostik for 100 at the local audio store.
well for some reason my lights still dim. and i was pushing a 1200 watt amp. But i recently changed headunits. i upgraded my old alpine to the new 2007 version and my lights all of the sudden stopped dimmming. i dont think it helped out much but im just letting u know how my dimming stopped on my car
well for some reason my lights still dim. and i was pushing a 1200 watt amp. But i recently changed headunits. i upgraded my old alpine to the new 2007 version and my lights all of the sudden stopped dimmming. i dont think it helped out much but im just letting u know how my dimming stopped on my car
#18
RE: monster cap
well since the money has been spent on the cap already, i will still recomend selling the cap for as close to the 150 you paid , and turn around and buy a "batcap 800" for about the same price +- 40-50 dollars, its not a cap but a small battery with fast discharge sim. to a cap but it can also start a small car ...
but as far as diming off of 400 watts thats crasy take your car to autozone ect. and have them test the alternator, i wouldnt be surprised if you were running a solid 12.3 - 12.5 volts with the car running reasuring you that the alt is going bad and not puting on the needed 13-14.5 volts needed
but as far as diming off of 400 watts thats crasy take your car to autozone ect. and have them test the alternator, i wouldnt be surprised if you were running a solid 12.3 - 12.5 volts with the car running reasuring you that the alt is going bad and not puting on the needed 13-14.5 volts needed
#19
RE: monster cap
ORIGINAL: t00fatt
[sm=dontgetit.gif] Thats why I mentioned I have HIDs and LEDs in all my lights... They draw less power then halogens so maybe dimming isn't as noticible when the voltage drops.
ORIGINAL: falkore24
hmmmm ..... where's the logic in the HID thing ....... HID's take LESS power than stocks.
hmmmm ..... where's the logic in the HID thing ....... HID's take LESS power than stocks.
#20
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
RE: monster cap
ORIGINAL: falkore24
Sorry, I misunderstood you the first time I read your post.
ORIGINAL: t00fatt
[sm=dontgetit.gif] Thats why I mentioned I have HIDs and LEDs in all my lights... They draw less power then halogens so maybe dimming isn't as noticible when the voltage drops.
ORIGINAL: falkore24
hmmmm ..... where's the logic in the HID thing ....... HID's take LESS power than stocks.
hmmmm ..... where's the logic in the HID thing ....... HID's take LESS power than stocks.
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