Mounting Depth - 96 Accord
#4
^that is how you find out exactly. also, it gives you a chance to see what you have for front mounting depth. you won't be re-using the factory speaker basket/mount, so you'll be making your own mount out of wood (painted). the wood mount will take the same shape as the factory bracket, giving you additional depth and helping it mate up with the plastic door panel.
it is very important that you maintain a seal between the new speaker and the factory door panel/grill. i use weatherstripping foam (closed cell) between my wood baffle and the metal door, between the speaker and the baffle, and between the baffle and the plastic door panel/grill. the result is increased midbass response, no rattling, and better overall performance. avoid plastic mounting adapters - make your own out of wood, and seal/protect the wood from water ingress.
the installtion of your speakers is 90% of how good they will sound. not including sound deadening, a pair of front door speakers take me about 3-4 hours total - most of which is baffle design/construction and running/terminating new wire, but also including test fits, panel removal/replacment, etc. course, once you get the first baffle correct, the second one is just traced so you make up time. and that time has come down since i've made dozens of them. to properly sound deaden your doors you're looking at about 3 hours per door, 100% coverage inside and out.
your first time, you may spend an entire day doing the front speakers correctly. don't let that discourage you. make sure you don't cut corners, and that you take the time to do it right. note the key word "correctly".
you can see an example of the baffle construction/wiring here:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre...1755977&page=2
while it's for a 2008 Scion xB, the methods are identical for a Honda/Toyota. also note how i terminate my speaker wires (heat shrink with disconnects).
it is very important that you maintain a seal between the new speaker and the factory door panel/grill. i use weatherstripping foam (closed cell) between my wood baffle and the metal door, between the speaker and the baffle, and between the baffle and the plastic door panel/grill. the result is increased midbass response, no rattling, and better overall performance. avoid plastic mounting adapters - make your own out of wood, and seal/protect the wood from water ingress.
the installtion of your speakers is 90% of how good they will sound. not including sound deadening, a pair of front door speakers take me about 3-4 hours total - most of which is baffle design/construction and running/terminating new wire, but also including test fits, panel removal/replacment, etc. course, once you get the first baffle correct, the second one is just traced so you make up time. and that time has come down since i've made dozens of them. to properly sound deaden your doors you're looking at about 3 hours per door, 100% coverage inside and out.
your first time, you may spend an entire day doing the front speakers correctly. don't let that discourage you. make sure you don't cut corners, and that you take the time to do it right. note the key word "correctly".
you can see an example of the baffle construction/wiring here:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre...1755977&page=2
while it's for a 2008 Scion xB, the methods are identical for a Honda/Toyota. also note how i terminate my speaker wires (heat shrink with disconnects).
Last edited by keep_hope_alive; 05-04-2010 at 01:10 PM.
#6
i use 1/2" or 3/4" MDF for my baffles - mostly depending on the distance from metal door to plastic panel/grill.
Raammat is the best bang for the buck - as cheap as i'd go.
Second Skin Damplifier is the best stuff on the market today.
I don't recommend using Fatmat, i'm not happy with their product compared to the others.
There are other companies, about a dozen or so, that make a butyl based viscoelastic dampening compound with an aluminum layer. That Scion xB is not deadened yet - that is going to happen in the future.
In my garage now is 200 sq. ft. of Raammat BXT II and Ensolite (foam) - it's planned for a 2005 Scion tC.
Raammat is the best bang for the buck - as cheap as i'd go.
Second Skin Damplifier is the best stuff on the market today.
I don't recommend using Fatmat, i'm not happy with their product compared to the others.
There are other companies, about a dozen or so, that make a butyl based viscoelastic dampening compound with an aluminum layer. That Scion xB is not deadened yet - that is going to happen in the future.
In my garage now is 200 sq. ft. of Raammat BXT II and Ensolite (foam) - it's planned for a 2005 Scion tC.
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Drakivaz
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03-07-2011 11:00 PM