No problem man, it gives me pleasure to help people out. Be sure to set your gains as low as possible, minimum should be good, on your fronts. Also set them to high pass and cross them pretty high I would say 150hz plus. That should keep the power down going to the fronts. The extra power will be fine if you keep those bass heavy notes out. The lows is what really takes the power.

EDIT: Ah well your not running a sub so leave them crossed high for a bit while they soften up a bit more. That won't protect your voice coil from burning, but the kickers should be slightly "overrated" compared to profiles ratings. Once they are nice and soft lower your crossover to what sounds right. I wouldn't go below 80hz though.

 

just got my email reply telling me that the profile amp I ordered is out of stock.

Any thoughts on a Crunch P900.4?

I'm a bit skeptical - any thoughts?

 

While I'm not familiar with Crunch amps I have not heard good things. Try searching to see what people have to say about them, but I would stay away from low quality amps. You'll spend more money in the long run replacing a POS that will burn out.

Also I learned the hard way but you should always email or call the store before ordering to make sure it's in stock, even if it says "in stock" on the product page. Almost everything car audio related I have ordered online without checking if it was in stock first was out of stock. At least you got an email, I didn't find out until a week had past and I called to see what was up.

 

yeah - found some reviews that scared me after I posted.

I'm considering downgrading back to a 60wx4 @4 rms amp. I was really excited by the 80w to better power those rear speakers...

Let me ask too -

Lets say I were to return the kickers I bought - is there a stock HU and replacement speaker setup that is going to sound better than what i'm trying to do here?

Bottom line being - with the amp I'll be around $350 for everything. Is there a set of 4 speakers that I should be looking at that I can just run stock that will sound as good/better than the setup I'm going for - and maybe even cost less?

 

No even low power speakers running of the HU will not sound as good. What I think you should do if you can is return both those speakers. Than get the best speakers you can afford for the fronts and a nice amp for them. The rears are only for the rear seat and can kill imaging making the sound stage bounce from the front to the rear. Now I doubt you will be bale to return the speakers but if you can that is the best way to do it. That's what I did, I was running only front speakers for almost a year.

Now let's assume you are stuck with those speakers. Since you have no sub a smaller amp that is in the range of the front speakers is your best option. With a bigger amp your going to have to cross the bass out of the fronts to keep them from blowing. A smaller amp will let you get the bass up front, and kicker speakers have a bit of bass to offer. The rears running off less power will only be slightly quieter, if i remember correct you have to double the wattage to increase 5 or 3 dBs(don't quote me on that though).

 

I believe that 3dB is double the sound power. Why not listen to what MM has to say if he's done some real fab work??? No response, so probably not though.

For rio: I'm partway through my system install. Right now, I have my head unit and a temporary sub setup with stock speakers. Like yours, my tweeters are paralleled with a capacitor similar to the tweeter on a coaxial speaker. It is in no way done, but with just the HU, before the sub, the sound improved dramatically! The mids and highs still sound flat to me, but most people like how it is now. I'm running a pair of RF12's sealed off of Danny's old Kenwood ..... which I must say was a steal at $70 for 150+150 or 460W ..... 4 Ohm only ..... weird.

DISCLAIMER: My HU isn't what you'd call average. It's a Pioneer DEH-P980BT ...... auto/manual time alignment, variable frequency and slope crossovers, 16 band auto/manual EQ, 5V RCA's, bluetooth and an iPod link.

 

Lol I guess you didn't real his other posts, he's just a Best Buy installer, and so naive that he thinks that's something respectable. The worst installers in the industry work at BB, hands down. You'd be amazed at the utterly retarded crap I have seen them do to some peoples systems on here.

EDIT: Glad to hear you like the amp, it really is a nice amp. Kenwood doesn't make a bad amp, while they're not the best they are good for the money.

 

Nah, I read them ..... didn't expect much, but yo never know. Also, while it may be rare, I'm sure that you could find some really good installers that had learned by screwing up other people's cars at Best Buy!!!

 

Well - the amp arrives on Monday. Can't wait - it hurts to commute everyday if I'm not just listening to Howard.

Anyways - any recommendations on a good place to ground (for both an under the seat mount - and a trunk mount?) [I'm still toying with running trunk and rewiring everything - but realistically, I'd be vertically mounting the amp just inside the trunk of the left side (opposite of where the jack is) - so not sure its worth all the fuss]

Any really clean/big good bolts, etc you recommend?

Also - the amp comes with free tweeters - lol. Now, while I can;t imagine they'll be any better than alarm clock speakers - I'm thinking they've gotta be better than the stocks - esp since I think my drivers side tweet is cracked (or has dirt/debris on it causing it to sometimes crackle).

Not sure if it's already crossed over - but might just use the capacitor on the stock tweet. I'm sure I'll have to examine the wattage when they arrive and listen to them.

I am finding that even ampless - my soundstage has moved 'back.'

I used to keep speakers at R1 fade to nicely balance/give just a touch more to rear/bass. Now I'm at F2. We'll see how far I'll have to go once I amp up. And how much I'll have to adjust my line driver from my satellite.

Here's another questions (sorry - rambling)...

I have my satellite radio hard wired through adapter (thinking HON? was a 4 years ago...) I have the radio, the satellite radio, and line driver all running to the same exact ground. I have 2 ground loop insulators at work. and I still have a hum. pisses me off to end - especially in cold temps - it gets worse. Just thinking - now I'm going to be amping that even louder!

Any thoughts on what I'm missing?

 

Under the seat use one of the seat bolts, and in the trunk there is a nice bolt to use near the gas tank sender unit. Don't mount the amp vertically, these amps use the mass off the heatsink to stay cool. With the amp vertical the top is going to run a lot hotter than the bottom.

Those free tweeters are probably on par in quality with the stock ones, if you have nice speakers I would leave them out, maybe throw them on ebay.

If your in a 7th gen, I can't remember if the stock HU has a whine or a hiss. Once you amp the stock HU that noise will go away(that's what I have heard). If it is alternator whine, try making a new clean ground behind the HU, and not use the ground in the harness.