A new user has some questions about sub/amp setups
#21
go with 4awg.
Streetwires makes great stuff - and for $60 with RCA's
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-PSK04RI-Po...7680694&sr=8-2
if you don't need RCA's it's even cheaper
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-PSK04B-Sin...7680694&sr=8-4
Streetwires makes great stuff - and for $60 with RCA's
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-PSK04RI-Po...7680694&sr=8-2
if you don't need RCA's it's even cheaper
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-PSK04B-Sin...7680694&sr=8-4
#22
your stock deck doesn't give you a sub level control - very important to have. just adjusting bass isn't the right way to turn up/down the subs since bass adjustments affect the speakers also.
some sub amps offer a remote level control. some aftermarket head units offer a sub level control.
some sub amps offer a remote level control. some aftermarket head units offer a sub level control.
#23
Well, I've had everything installed for a little over a week and I'm displeased. I'm not sure if the amp isn't set correctly or the HU adjustments aren't quite right or if the placement of the sub isn't good enough.
The bass hits pretty hard, but not hard enough. It isn't nearly as clean as I was expecting it to be either. I don't know if my expectations were too high or if I should have gone another route. I've already invested so much money into it that it's unlikely I'll be able to change anything. I'm hoping that it's simply the settings on my amp or HU.
I'll post some pictures and more detailed info a soon.
The bass hits pretty hard, but not hard enough. It isn't nearly as clean as I was expecting it to be either. I don't know if my expectations were too high or if I should have gone another route. I've already invested so much money into it that it's unlikely I'll be able to change anything. I'm hoping that it's simply the settings on my amp or HU.
I'll post some pictures and more detailed info a soon.
#25
The amp settings were left however they were when installed by Best Buy employees so I know that could have a lot to do with it. I got a custom sealed enclosure fit for the subs airspace.
Enclosure: http://tiny.cc/crrd9
Pics incoming.
Enclosure: http://tiny.cc/crrd9
Pics incoming.
#26
Since my amp is mounted on the back of the sub it was difficult to get a full shot so I'll have a mix of pictures and text to explain the settings. These are untouched from whatever the BB installer did. I didn't want to go tampering without help. (this will be edited with more pics in the next 30 mins.)
Pre-Amp Output Selection
Output Mode - Full Range
Filter Slope - 12db
Filter Freq (Hz) - 45
Filter Mode - LP
Infrasonic Filter - Off
"Q" - 1.1
Bass EQ - Off
Center Freq - 50
Boost (db) - +5
Amp LP Filter - 12db (Filter Freq - 60)
Input Voltage - Low
Signal Sensing - Off
That's it all of it.
Pre-Amp Output Selection
Output Mode - Full Range
Filter Slope - 12db
Filter Freq (Hz) - 45
Filter Mode - LP
Infrasonic Filter - Off
"Q" - 1.1
Bass EQ - Off
Center Freq - 50
Boost (db) - +5
Amp LP Filter - 12db (Filter Freq - 60)
Input Voltage - Low
Signal Sensing - Off
That's it all of it.
Last edited by ShadowWolf9; 08-02-2010 at 02:29 PM.
#27
it looks like a nice cosmetic install - a good example of building a baffle. though, i would have opted to have the sub facing the cabin instead of the trunk. then you could have left rear speakers in place.
what does the back of the box look like - zoomed out?
did you leave the rear speakers or remove them? is the factory sub in the rear deck?
feel free to play with the EQ on the amp if you find a setting that gives you more kick drum punch (probably around 60Hz). the tough part is that you cannot play with the settings while listening in the front seat.
try opening the trunk and listen inside the car - does the bass response improve? if so, then you have cancellation issues and sealing the rear deck may be necessary.
also try swapping the phase on the sub (swap sub positive and negative wires at the amp).
you may want to verify how they wired the voice coils - series or parallel?
what does the back of the box look like - zoomed out?
did you leave the rear speakers or remove them? is the factory sub in the rear deck?
feel free to play with the EQ on the amp if you find a setting that gives you more kick drum punch (probably around 60Hz). the tough part is that you cannot play with the settings while listening in the front seat.
try opening the trunk and listen inside the car - does the bass response improve? if so, then you have cancellation issues and sealing the rear deck may be necessary.
also try swapping the phase on the sub (swap sub positive and negative wires at the amp).
you may want to verify how they wired the voice coils - series or parallel?
#28
After having the sub for a few months I decided I want to switch things up. Since I bought the sub for pretty cheap, I was just able to sell it to a friend and broke even. I just purchased a 13w6v2. I wanted to go bigger for multiple reasons.
After taking you recommendations, adjusting the amp over and again, I still wanted more power. I feel like the size of the sub along with the sealed enclosure (with its inefficient placement) led to a disadvantage. I thought I might as well take the risk seeing how I'll only be losing what I paid for the enclosure. I just have to dismount my amp from the box when I take everything out shortly.
My 500/1v2 should be able to power the 13w6v2 alright, no? Many reviews I've read had people powering it one and they said it was fine yet many buy the 1000w as well. I also plan to get a sub level control ****, which I failed to do before. I never even removed the factory sub, which would probably help as well, but the method looks extensive.
Concerning the box I'm puzzled. I was looking at the Fatbox brand, but they're extremely pricey. www dot fat box dot com
I'm also not sure how it would fit along the side of the trunk cleanly. Does it matter whether it's snug against the wall of the trunk or out towards the center a little more? Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated
After taking you recommendations, adjusting the amp over and again, I still wanted more power. I feel like the size of the sub along with the sealed enclosure (with its inefficient placement) led to a disadvantage. I thought I might as well take the risk seeing how I'll only be losing what I paid for the enclosure. I just have to dismount my amp from the box when I take everything out shortly.
My 500/1v2 should be able to power the 13w6v2 alright, no? Many reviews I've read had people powering it one and they said it was fine yet many buy the 1000w as well. I also plan to get a sub level control ****, which I failed to do before. I never even removed the factory sub, which would probably help as well, but the method looks extensive.
Concerning the box I'm puzzled. I was looking at the Fatbox brand, but they're extremely pricey. www dot fat box dot com
I'm also not sure how it would fit along the side of the trunk cleanly. Does it matter whether it's snug against the wall of the trunk or out towards the center a little more? Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated
#29
snug in the corner performs better, closer to the rear is key though. your best bet is a having a fiberglass box made, or see if you can pick up a JL stealthbox enclosure.
with the same power you probably won't notice a huge difference in output just increasing cone area - what you'll mostly notice is an increase in low frequency response. but overall output will be comparable. changing the enclosure and orientation will give you the most change. might as well start with your 500/1 but plan for space and mounting of a 1000/1 or other 1000W amp.
with the same power you probably won't notice a huge difference in output just increasing cone area - what you'll mostly notice is an increase in low frequency response. but overall output will be comparable. changing the enclosure and orientation will give you the most change. might as well start with your 500/1 but plan for space and mounting of a 1000/1 or other 1000W amp.