I havent bought a voltmeter yet, but I ran through all the wiring and re-screwed every cable at the amp. Changed the fuse in the amp as well since I had a spare, although the fuse isnt blown. I checked the voltage while the engine running with the DMM on the amp, it doesnt show anywhere less than 12.4.
It did happen again(head unit restart) in the morning, but after I re-did the cables, hasnt happened yet.
Its annoying to know something is wrong but not knowing what is wrong.

 

12.4V with the car running is low. you want 14V with the car running.

 

Thanks for a quick reply, I just put a new battery 2 months ago. Is it possible that the battery is too weak?
I will check the voltage at the battery terminals today and post the readings.
I remember that I helped a friend to jump start his bmw from my battery a week ago, I had put the terminals connected for almost 20 mins(with my car engine running) to get his car started.
Would that have caused this problem? I noticed that my clock was showing wrong time next day and the check engine light went off(I had that light on ever since I bought the car). But usually it comes back on after a couple of days after I disconnect the battery.
I hope by adding an amp and sub I have not started a chain of electrical problems.
I do have a couple of questions regarding the dash lights. I will make some new threads for them though.
I am sorry I am very new to cars, this is my first car, So I have a lot of questions that still amuses me. I had been a motorcycle person till I moved here in Colorado, US.

 

I checked the voltage with car running again today.
The voltage accross the power and ground is 14.7V at the amp.
And the voltage accross the remote and ground is 13.4V at the amp.
Checked the voltage accross the positive and negative terminals on the battery, it shows 14.7V as well.

I guess I did something wrong yesterday while taking the readings, so I got the readings to be around 12V.

I hope reconnecting the cables did the job for me.

Thanks for all your help keep_hope_alive.

 

a bad connection can increase resistance and result in a lower reading. the key with any connection is low resistance. (resistance also causes heat).

14.7V is great - that tells you the alt is working properly, the battery is fully charged, and the current demand by the car/system is lower than the alt output.

next, turn the system up to listening volume and monitor the voltage - at idle it may drop below 13.8V, but at speed (>1000 RPM) you want it to maintain >14V.

be sure to PM me links to any new threads you want my attention on, i don't always have time to check other sections.

it's possible you drained your battery jumping your friend, or at least your voltage was low enough while connected to the battery that your system reset (your car should have been running during that time).

pick up a Haynes manual for your Accord and you can read your own check engine light codes. it's good to know what that code is saying without paying a shop for a diagnostic.

note that the clock memory is usually tied to the check engine light and pulling the clock fuse will reset the light.

 

Got it bro.
I will check for all the fuses if the weather is good this weekend.
The head unit and the amp is working fine now.
May be the jump drained the battery out.
I will certainly PM you if there is something that needs immediate attention.
For now the clock is fine and the check engine light has not been ON for almost 5 days.
As I said I will check the all the fuses over the weekend.
I had a question about activating seatbelt warning light/chime, however I put a new thread for it a couple of days ago. I hope some one notices it.
Thanks for all your help.

 

Hurray, We can mark this thread as solved.
The sub, head unit and the amp all are working fine now. No restarts and no clipping.
I believe the restarts were being caused because of the loose wiring. After redoing all the wires, all is working fine.
Thanks a ton for all your help.
Other questions in the other threads.

 

good deal. we like solving problems.