I have a 2002 Honda Accord ex v6 coupe. I am getting ready to install an entire new set up in it, I have two Polk Audio db 6.5" for the doors, the component db tweeters for the dash, and Polk Audion mm 6x9"s for the rear deck. I have an 8" bass tube (temporary) in the trunk, and a Sony WX-GT77UI head unit. I am going to be powering it all with a 16-PR4x50 Memphis Audio Amplifier.
Since this is my first time dealing with sound systems, needless to say, I have some questions. First, how do you remove the dashboard to install the tweeters? Does anyone have a guide for this? Second, what is a good area to put my amp (it is pretty large) so I do not have to run wires back and forth all over the place, and so it can get enough air flow so it won't over heat.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Welcome to HAF! start with my build log - link in the sig.

the tweeters have removable covers. those mesh covered pieces just come off. to access and rewire them you'll want to remove the instrument cluster and the glove box. both are pretty straight forward and i can guide you through that process by memory.

amp locations are plentiful in the car. i don't recommend going under the front seats though, so the trunk is really the place for it.

if you want to discuss in more detail, send me a PM and maybe we can have a phone convo to discuss.

after looking at my build log and the sticky's in this section, come back with more questions! i think you'll find a lot of info there.

 

step by step for removing dash panels to run wiring easily:

* remove radio and A/C trim. two screws on bottom, one behind the hazard/clock (pops off). two wire harnesses for A/C.
* four 10mm bolts for the radio.
* trim below radio pops off (four clips) - this is easy to push out when the radio is out
* passenger lower dash trim has a screw in the middle below the radio, and two screws behind the passenger side fuse panel cover.
* driver's lower dash trim has a screw in the middle below the radio, and two screws behind the drivers side fuse panel cover (see pic below - one black and one copper screw)
* instrument cluster has a trim panel with two screws on top. you don't need to remove the actual instrument cluster - just the trim.
* apillar trim pops off and slides out - gives access to tweeter wiring
* glove box is held with 3 screws bottom, two on the inside behind plastic covers (one each side) and the latch has two screws. there is a metal bracket with 10mm bolts below the glove box that i remove first (makes sliding out the glove box easier) and IIRC it has four black 10mm bolts. when you loosen the glove box, disconnect the light wire harness (left side).

to wire the door speakers - it's fairly easy. start by removing the door panel - one screw at door handle lets you remove the plastic handle cup (slides forward or back). once the cup is loose you need to disconnect the door bar (rotate plastic clip and lift up on the bar). one screw in the door controls pocket under a plastic clip. now you can remove the window/door controls and undo the harness. remove the sail panel trim piece (one clip), remove the round door panel plug (near hinge). the rest of the door panel is held with clips. start on the bottom and pop them off as you work your way around. take note of any that remain in the door and not on the panel and replace them. once you have the clips off, lift to get the panel off teh window ledge.

running wire to the doors is easy. start by removing the fuse panel cover and lower dash trim. next, trace the wiring harness and unplug it. now loosen the rubber door wire grommet from the cabin side. now maneuver the harness out of that hole and you have the grommet and harness in your hand. routing wire into the door is now easy.

 

Nice pic, didn't thinki of pulling that harness, that will save a lot of bs when I put my components in, thinking of trying to hide the crossovers in the door somewhere, not sure yet though, they might land in the trunk???!?!?!?!? Aaaarrrggghhh, where do I put them?!?!?!?

 

the glove box location worked out very well for me for a while

 

don't put crossovers INSIDE the door - they will get wet, rust, and short/fail.

maybe in the door pocket like i did on this Elantra GT:



me putting in the Alpine Type-R comps in the doors - you can see the crossover wiring (blue) routed and zip tied to factory wiring down to the crossover location. Type-R tweeter in factory location.

 

I'm pretty positive at this point that I am going to put the crossovers either in the trunk where the amps will reside or in the center console, there seems to be some room in there on either side just in front of the shifter. I don't have them in my hands so it is a question of space, and if I am going to have to glue them in, don't really want to do that.

 

do the crossovers have any adjustments - i.e. tweeter level? hiding crossovers is fine when there isn't any adjustments. in the case of the Type-X crossovers in the first pic - there are a ton of adjustments so i wanted them easily accessible. for the second pic, there was just tweeter level that was only tweaked once.

 

As far as I know they are only adjustable for the tweeters. Boston Pro 60SE is the component set that is going in. I haven't even received them yet, didn't take the time to download the manual yet either, but I might today once I finish the big 3 in 2ga.

 

you'll want the ability to adjust the crossover settings after they are powered up. keep that in mind with placement. of course, the closer to the amp they are - the more wire is required. but if you keep them close to the amp you are already wired for an active setup.