Subwoofers
#1
Subwoofers
I am getting subwoofers for my car for Christmas and I feel this is probably the place I can most likely get help. I have a Honda Accord (obviously); I believe it is 06', if that matters.. 4 door. I'd like to know if there are any specific places I should be looking for subwoofers. I'm mainly looking at 15" subs. Will probably only get 1, depending on the price. I probably can't spend any more than $400, but I may be able to push out an extra hundred. I also need help looking for an amplifier and any cables I might need.
I listen mainly to electronic music, rap/hip-hop, and reggae.
Another thing I have to ask is how much does it normally cost for them to install subwoofers into a car like this. My car already has built in factory subwoofers, if that makes a difference in ease of installation or not.
I listen mainly to electronic music, rap/hip-hop, and reggae.
Another thing I have to ask is how much does it normally cost for them to install subwoofers into a car like this. My car already has built in factory subwoofers, if that makes a difference in ease of installation or not.
#4
For the price of everything. I guess the subwoofers wouldn't be difficult to install myself.
#5
amp kit:
4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Amp Installation Wiring Kit
LOC
PAC SNI-15 (sni15) LOC 10:1 Reduction - Sonic Electronix
SUB:
RE Audio SEX15D4 (SEX-15D4) 15" Dual 4 ohm Car Subwoofer
AMP:
Precision Power PPI S850.1D (S8501D) Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp
That 360 dollars. there are plenty of other options out there too. that would leave you 40 dollars for a box. I personally would build the box myself. you will get a much better box.
if you were to get a prefab box, go with something like this:
Ground Shaker GSP 1 15 (GSP115) 15" Single Ported Enclosure
if you feel you are not capable or dont have the time to build a box the best results would be going to a local audio shop and having them build you a box, but that is gonna cost a couple hundred bux. the box is the biggest element to the sub.
if you have a shop install it you are probably looking at 75 to 100 in labor. but most shops require you to buy the wire from them. the 4 guage wire will probably end up costing you about 3 dollars a foot. and that is where the cost is going to come in.
4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Amp Installation Wiring Kit
LOC
PAC SNI-15 (sni15) LOC 10:1 Reduction - Sonic Electronix
SUB:
RE Audio SEX15D4 (SEX-15D4) 15" Dual 4 ohm Car Subwoofer
AMP:
Precision Power PPI S850.1D (S8501D) Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp
That 360 dollars. there are plenty of other options out there too. that would leave you 40 dollars for a box. I personally would build the box myself. you will get a much better box.
if you were to get a prefab box, go with something like this:
Ground Shaker GSP 1 15 (GSP115) 15" Single Ported Enclosure
if you feel you are not capable or dont have the time to build a box the best results would be going to a local audio shop and having them build you a box, but that is gonna cost a couple hundred bux. the box is the biggest element to the sub.
if you have a shop install it you are probably looking at 75 to 100 in labor. but most shops require you to buy the wire from them. the 4 guage wire will probably end up costing you about 3 dollars a foot. and that is where the cost is going to come in.
#6
amp kit:
4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Amp Installation Wiring Kit
LOC
PAC SNI-15 (sni15) LOC 10:1 Reduction - Sonic Electronix
SUB:
RE Audio SEX15D4 (SEX-15D4) 15" Dual 4 ohm Car Subwoofer
AMP:
Precision Power PPI S850.1D (S8501D) Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp
That 360 dollars. there are plenty of other options out there too. that would leave you 40 dollars for a box. I personally would build the box myself. you will get a much better box.
if you were to get a prefab box, go with something like this:
Ground Shaker GSP 1 15 (GSP115) 15" Single Ported Enclosure
if you feel you are not capable or dont have the time to build a box the best results would be going to a local audio shop and having them build you a box, but that is gonna cost a couple hundred bux. the box is the biggest element to the sub.
if you have a shop install it you are probably looking at 75 to 100 in labor. but most shops require you to buy the wire from them. the 4 guage wire will probably end up costing you about 3 dollars a foot. and that is where the cost is going to come in.
4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Amp Installation Wiring Kit
LOC
PAC SNI-15 (sni15) LOC 10:1 Reduction - Sonic Electronix
SUB:
RE Audio SEX15D4 (SEX-15D4) 15" Dual 4 ohm Car Subwoofer
AMP:
Precision Power PPI S850.1D (S8501D) Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp
That 360 dollars. there are plenty of other options out there too. that would leave you 40 dollars for a box. I personally would build the box myself. you will get a much better box.
if you were to get a prefab box, go with something like this:
Ground Shaker GSP 1 15 (GSP115) 15" Single Ported Enclosure
if you feel you are not capable or dont have the time to build a box the best results would be going to a local audio shop and having them build you a box, but that is gonna cost a couple hundred bux. the box is the biggest element to the sub.
if you have a shop install it you are probably looking at 75 to 100 in labor. but most shops require you to buy the wire from them. the 4 guage wire will probably end up costing you about 3 dollars a foot. and that is where the cost is going to come in.
Amazon.com: Brand NEW Re Audio Sxx12d2 12" 1,000 Watt Rms Rated (2000w Peak) Dual Voice Coil 2 Ohm Car Subwoofer with Triple Stacked Magnets and a Cast Aluminum Basket: Car Electronics
Last edited by skillsforilz; 12-02-2013 at 09:14 PM.
#7
assuming that amp is around 70% efficient (which should be close to about right for most amps. high end amps maybe a bit more) that amp is only going to put out about 600 watts at 1 ohm.
and you got a dual 2 ohm sub, which means it is either going to be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. that amp is not 1 ohm stable so you are looking at 4 ohms. so I am thinking you are looking at somewhere around 150 watts rms out of that amp at 4 ohms. you can run the amp at 1 ohm till it burns up. could be a week could be a year. I am thinking with a boss it wont last long at 1 ohm though.
I am not trying to be a jerk. just trying to be realistic. the sub is a good sub, I just dont think you are going to be happy with the amp.
and you got a dual 2 ohm sub, which means it is either going to be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. that amp is not 1 ohm stable so you are looking at 4 ohms. so I am thinking you are looking at somewhere around 150 watts rms out of that amp at 4 ohms. you can run the amp at 1 ohm till it burns up. could be a week could be a year. I am thinking with a boss it wont last long at 1 ohm though.
I am not trying to be a jerk. just trying to be realistic. the sub is a good sub, I just dont think you are going to be happy with the amp.
Last edited by neophyte; 12-02-2013 at 10:54 PM.
#8
assuming that amp is around 70% efficient (which should be close to about right for most amps. high end amps maybe a bit more) that amp is only going to put out about 600 watts at 1 ohm.
and you got a dual 2 ohm sub, which means it is either going to be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. that amp is not 1 ohm stable so you are looking at 4 ohms. so I am thinking you are looking at somewhere around 150 watts rms out of that amp at 4 ohms. you can run the amp at 1 ohm till it burns up. could be a week could be a year. I am thinking with a boss it wont last long at 1 ohm though.
I am not trying to be a jerk. just trying to be realistic. the sub is a good sub, I just dont think you are going to be happy with the amp.
and you got a dual 2 ohm sub, which means it is either going to be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. that amp is not 1 ohm stable so you are looking at 4 ohms. so I am thinking you are looking at somewhere around 150 watts rms out of that amp at 4 ohms. you can run the amp at 1 ohm till it burns up. could be a week could be a year. I am thinking with a boss it wont last long at 1 ohm though.
I am not trying to be a jerk. just trying to be realistic. the sub is a good sub, I just dont think you are going to be happy with the amp.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s-AR3000D.html
From what I'm seeing here, it does more than you say so I'm kind of confused here.
Last edited by skillsforilz; 12-03-2013 at 07:00 AM.
#9
That is because they misrated it.
rms power is from the center of the electrical wave to 70% of the peak. they way those amps are rated is from peak to peak which is more than 140%. It is not CEA compliant so they do not have to comply to any guide lines on ratings, so they dont.
a good way of telling about what an amp will do:
you take the fuses add them together and add a zero. that is 60 amps of fusing. so at 10 volts which is about 70% of what the alternator puts out is 600 watts. no amps are completely efficient so some power is lost in heat which is why you would you ten volts for an estimate. but even if it were 100% effeicient you are looking at 864 watts.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a-BB2000D.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...RX1500.1D.html
rms power is from the center of the electrical wave to 70% of the peak. they way those amps are rated is from peak to peak which is more than 140%. It is not CEA compliant so they do not have to comply to any guide lines on ratings, so they dont.
a good way of telling about what an amp will do:
you take the fuses add them together and add a zero. that is 60 amps of fusing. so at 10 volts which is about 70% of what the alternator puts out is 600 watts. no amps are completely efficient so some power is lost in heat which is why you would you ten volts for an estimate. but even if it were 100% effeicient you are looking at 864 watts.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a-BB2000D.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...RX1500.1D.html
Last edited by neophyte; 12-03-2013 at 10:04 AM.