Subwoofers
#11
12-03-2013 | 12:13 PM
Senior Member Stereo Guru..Almost A Mod :)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 862
From: louisiana
Ina good box it will still put out some sound. Just make sure you match the gain right. Don't try to turn it up all the way (gain is not volume). And don't try to turn the bass up on your stereo to try and compensate or get more bass. You will blow your door speakers doing that.
#12
12-03-2013 | 02:57 PM
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Ina good box it will still put out some sound. Just make sure you match the gain right. Don't try to turn it up all the way (gain is not volume). And don't try to turn the bass up on your stereo to try and compensate or get more bass. You will blow your door speakers doing that.
Last edited by skillsforilz; 12-03-2013 at 03:43 PM.
#13
12-03-2013 | 07:12 PM
Senior Member Stereo Guru..Almost A Mod :)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 862
From: louisiana
the sub, is a good sub. The one I recommended was to stay within your price range.
either of those amps I posted will do the power. just make sure it will do 1000 at 1 ohm. which means basically you will need 100 amps of fusing.
the one I recommended is a pretty basic one there are nicer ones out there but for just adding a sub I wouldnt worry about getting a nicer one too much. I think once you get your sub hooked up, you will find you can turn the bass setting down on your headunit and your mids will clear up. if not we can see what you want to do about that when the time comes, but mids and highs can be a bit pricey.
either of those amps I posted will do the power. just make sure it will do 1000 at 1 ohm. which means basically you will need 100 amps of fusing.
the one I recommended is a pretty basic one there are nicer ones out there but for just adding a sub I wouldnt worry about getting a nicer one too much. I think once you get your sub hooked up, you will find you can turn the bass setting down on your headunit and your mids will clear up. if not we can see what you want to do about that when the time comes, but mids and highs can be a bit pricey.
#14
12-04-2013 | 12:13 PM
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Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2013
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the sub, is a good sub. The one I recommended was to stay within your price range.
either of those amps I posted will do the power. just make sure it will do 1000 at 1 ohm. which means basically you will need 100 amps of fusing.
the one I recommended is a pretty basic one there are nicer ones out there but for just adding a sub I wouldnt worry about getting a nicer one too much. I think once you get your sub hooked up, you will find you can turn the bass setting down on your headunit and your mids will clear up. if not we can see what you want to do about that when the time comes, but mids and highs can be a bit pricey.
either of those amps I posted will do the power. just make sure it will do 1000 at 1 ohm. which means basically you will need 100 amps of fusing.
the one I recommended is a pretty basic one there are nicer ones out there but for just adding a sub I wouldnt worry about getting a nicer one too much. I think once you get your sub hooked up, you will find you can turn the bass setting down on your headunit and your mids will clear up. if not we can see what you want to do about that when the time comes, but mids and highs can be a bit pricey.
Last edited by skillsforilz; 12-04-2013 at 03:18 PM.
#15
12-04-2013 | 04:34 PM
Senior Member Stereo Guru..Almost A Mod :)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 862
From: louisiana
its PAC so it is a solid brand. I read some of the reviews.
the guy who said he had to change the wires around, probably had a bad schematic and started with them wrong in the first place.
the guy who said it doesnt filter highs well is right. It is not a crossover, it is not supposed to filter highs. that is what the crossover on the amp does. this just converts from high output to low output.
its like getting mad cause your car wont float you to europe. that is not what it was made to do.
the product does was it is designed to do. are there better options out there. of course there are but for a basic install I didnt see much since in an active crossover with built in line driver or anything to that extent. It will do what you need it to do.
the guy who said he had to change the wires around, probably had a bad schematic and started with them wrong in the first place.
the guy who said it doesnt filter highs well is right. It is not a crossover, it is not supposed to filter highs. that is what the crossover on the amp does. this just converts from high output to low output.
its like getting mad cause your car wont float you to europe. that is not what it was made to do.
the product does was it is designed to do. are there better options out there. of course there are but for a basic install I didnt see much since in an active crossover with built in line driver or anything to that extent. It will do what you need it to do.
#16
12-04-2013 | 05:39 PM
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Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12
its PAC so it is a solid brand. I read some of the reviews.
the guy who said he had to change the wires around, probably had a bad schematic and started with them wrong in the first place.
the guy who said it doesnt filter highs well is right. It is not a crossover, it is not supposed to filter highs. that is what the crossover on the amp does. this just converts from high output to low output.
its like getting mad cause your car wont float you to europe. that is not what it was made to do.
the product does was it is designed to do. are there better options out there. of course there are but for a basic install I didnt see much since in an active crossover with built in line driver or anything to that extent. It will do what you need it to do.
the guy who said he had to change the wires around, probably had a bad schematic and started with them wrong in the first place.
the guy who said it doesnt filter highs well is right. It is not a crossover, it is not supposed to filter highs. that is what the crossover on the amp does. this just converts from high output to low output.
its like getting mad cause your car wont float you to europe. that is not what it was made to do.
the product does was it is designed to do. are there better options out there. of course there are but for a basic install I didnt see much since in an active crossover with built in line driver or anything to that extent. It will do what you need it to do.
#17
12-04-2013 | 06:28 PM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 16
You could splice some wires to the factory head but it might not sound as good with a deck that's meant to handle an amp. Plus some factory heads, not sure about honda , limit frequency levels. A second head unit in the trunk could work. You might blow many fuses if you use the amps power supply from the battery. Possible fire hazzard, dead battery issues. Go with a Kenwood in dash unit. Those things look good and work great
#18
12-04-2013 | 06:44 PM
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Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12
You could splice some wires to the factory head but it might not sound as good with a deck that's meant to handle an amp. Plus some factory heads, not sure about honda , limit frequency levels. A second head unit in the trunk could work. You might blow many fuses if you use the amps power supply from the battery. Possible fire hazzard, dead battery issues. Go with a Kenwood in dash unit. Those things look good and work great
#19
12-04-2013 | 06:45 PM
Senior Member Stereo Guru..Almost A Mod :)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 862
From: louisiana
Alright, so I have everything now besides a box. What's one that you'd recommend besides the one you already did?
My honest suggestion is to build a box. if you are not able to do that and dont want to have a local shop buy you a box, all of those prefab boxes are gonna be similar. they are undersized with a small port and high tuning. I posted that one because it is a decent sized port. but really if you are buying prefab they are all about the same.
And three more questions.
One, how do you make sure the sub won't slide around in the trunk?
You can get some L brackets and bolt it to the bottom of the trunk. make sure when you drill the holes for the bolts you dont hit the gas tank.
Second, how do I know how loud to set the amp to because I don't want to blow the amp if it can't put out that much power as I want.
ok the theory behind this is you want your amp gain voltage to match your output voltage. so if you are getting 2 volts on the rca's you want the amp set to accept 2 volts. anything more than that is just clipping.
but unless you have an oscope or another form of a meter to test this, you are just going to have to set it by ear. start with the volume on your stereo at the maximum amount where there is not distortion in the stereo and your amp gain all the way down. you want to slowly turn the amp gain up until you hear distortion. if you are not sure what distortion sounds like. the increase in the sound as you turn it up is going to be fairly linear. it will gradually increase. at some point it is going to change in the way it sounds and get noticebly louder at a very small increment. that is where it clipped. stop there and back it off just slightly. and that should do it.
Also, what do I do about a head unit? Is there a way I can use my car's stereo to do that? I feel like the console of my car looks nice and I don't want to ruin it. Unless I can stick the head unit elsewhere.
that is the purpose of the LOC. with the LOC you do not need to replace the headunit. it converts the factory high out puts to low outputs. if you are going to replace the stereo you will not need the LOC.
the options with replacing the headunit on that car is either putting the second stereo in the lower cubby and leaving the factory unit in as well. the kit to do this is about 30 dollars. or replacing the headunit with a metra kit and new stereo. the metra kit is about 250 dollars.
My honest suggestion is to build a box. if you are not able to do that and dont want to have a local shop buy you a box, all of those prefab boxes are gonna be similar. they are undersized with a small port and high tuning. I posted that one because it is a decent sized port. but really if you are buying prefab they are all about the same.
And three more questions.
One, how do you make sure the sub won't slide around in the trunk?
You can get some L brackets and bolt it to the bottom of the trunk. make sure when you drill the holes for the bolts you dont hit the gas tank.
Second, how do I know how loud to set the amp to because I don't want to blow the amp if it can't put out that much power as I want.
ok the theory behind this is you want your amp gain voltage to match your output voltage. so if you are getting 2 volts on the rca's you want the amp set to accept 2 volts. anything more than that is just clipping.
but unless you have an oscope or another form of a meter to test this, you are just going to have to set it by ear. start with the volume on your stereo at the maximum amount where there is not distortion in the stereo and your amp gain all the way down. you want to slowly turn the amp gain up until you hear distortion. if you are not sure what distortion sounds like. the increase in the sound as you turn it up is going to be fairly linear. it will gradually increase. at some point it is going to change in the way it sounds and get noticebly louder at a very small increment. that is where it clipped. stop there and back it off just slightly. and that should do it.
Also, what do I do about a head unit? Is there a way I can use my car's stereo to do that? I feel like the console of my car looks nice and I don't want to ruin it. Unless I can stick the head unit elsewhere.
that is the purpose of the LOC. with the LOC you do not need to replace the headunit. it converts the factory high out puts to low outputs. if you are going to replace the stereo you will not need the LOC.
the options with replacing the headunit on that car is either putting the second stereo in the lower cubby and leaving the factory unit in as well. the kit to do this is about 30 dollars. or replacing the headunit with a metra kit and new stereo. the metra kit is about 250 dollars.