Suggestion for my audio setup
#1
Suggestion for my audio setup
Im about to add a LOC to my stock head unit and i want to know how many channels will I need for the LOC? I want to have two amps for my system. One for the subs and another to run the rear and front door speakers. Only the stock head unit will run the tweeters in the front. I also want to add an equalizer. Does this sound like an OK setup also? And will there be other parts i will need to buy in order to make all this happen?
#3
thanks for moving it.
you want a 4 channel LOC so you can use your fader.
i recommend this LOC:
N-RHL4 a 4 Channel, 50 Watt per channel , Line Output Converter - $39.95 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
it gives you a remote turn-on for the amps. you want to avoid using ignition for amp turn-on.
there are several ways to wire the amps to the LOC. it depends on the amps. some 4 channel amps require all four inputs to be filled. some have a switch for 2ch or 4ch input. some amps have RCA outputs to feed other amps.
i recommend you buy new component speakers (6.5" woofer and tweeter with passive crossover) for the front. replace both door woofers and tweeters. you want to avoid coaxial speakers in the front doors. see the door speaker installation sticky in this section.
note that any speakers in the rear deck will be distorted by the subs. it is usually best just to leave them out to let more bass into the cabin. rear speakers in these cars are for bass only (no tweeters).
an EQ can help a factory system. but it is another component in the signal chain, takes up space, and may or may not be helpful. it may or may not take the place of a LOC. if you want an EQ you can put in the front pocket, you could use the EQ to just adjust the speakers. Then get a sub amp with a built-in parametric EQ. Feed the EQ from the Front HU out and the sub from the Rear HU out. that way the fader acts as a sub level control. or just get an EQ with 6 channel out and sub level control - then you only need the front HU output and a 2 channel LOC. regardless, a 4 channel LOC is a good first step so you have flexibility.
an OEM integration processor (JBL, Alpine, Audio Control, Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, etc) can also work well and take the place of both a LOC and an EQ.
you want a 4 channel LOC so you can use your fader.
i recommend this LOC:
N-RHL4 a 4 Channel, 50 Watt per channel , Line Output Converter - $39.95 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
it gives you a remote turn-on for the amps. you want to avoid using ignition for amp turn-on.
there are several ways to wire the amps to the LOC. it depends on the amps. some 4 channel amps require all four inputs to be filled. some have a switch for 2ch or 4ch input. some amps have RCA outputs to feed other amps.
i recommend you buy new component speakers (6.5" woofer and tweeter with passive crossover) for the front. replace both door woofers and tweeters. you want to avoid coaxial speakers in the front doors. see the door speaker installation sticky in this section.
note that any speakers in the rear deck will be distorted by the subs. it is usually best just to leave them out to let more bass into the cabin. rear speakers in these cars are for bass only (no tweeters).
an EQ can help a factory system. but it is another component in the signal chain, takes up space, and may or may not be helpful. it may or may not take the place of a LOC. if you want an EQ you can put in the front pocket, you could use the EQ to just adjust the speakers. Then get a sub amp with a built-in parametric EQ. Feed the EQ from the Front HU out and the sub from the Rear HU out. that way the fader acts as a sub level control. or just get an EQ with 6 channel out and sub level control - then you only need the front HU output and a 2 channel LOC. regardless, a 4 channel LOC is a good first step so you have flexibility.
an OEM integration processor (JBL, Alpine, Audio Control, Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, etc) can also work well and take the place of both a LOC and an EQ.
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