I'm not sure where to post this, so I figured this would be the best place.

I need to tap two factory fuse locations to power a cd changer and an alpine 701. I've never done this before, and honestly haven't even looked at the fuse panel on my car. Is there a quick and easy way to tap into the factory power to get juice for these guys? If not, I can run a power wire from the battery and go at it that way, but I'd rather not do that if possible. The sig says it all, 05 EX v6 5AT. Thanks!

 

http://bussauto.com/6/BladeFusesandAccessories.html

 

awesome, thanks!

I was thinking about it some more earlier, and I realized both of the devices I want to hook up have inline fuses already built in on their power wires. should I just use a fuse tap instead? if so, is there a certain fuse I should or shouldn't piggyback on?

 

Since your speakers are amp'ed externally, the CD changer and sound processor aren't going to take that much power. Also, the changer already has an accessory lead to turn it on and off and the SP has a remote. I'd say that you're good to just use the stock radio power lead. Otherwise, the device above would work as would a direct run to the battery. The simplist is the radio lead. Where do you have the SP located? I'd kinda expect it to be near the amps in the trunk. If that's the case, I'd power it to your battery mainline's distribution block.

 

701 will be in the trunk, however, I'm using an Audison 5.1k amp for the stereo, so no distro block.

So, if I can run power and turn on from the deck's harness to these, that'd be great.

On a side note, I'm planning on doing the install to be ready to compete in IASCA. I haven't read any specifics in the rule book about splicing the wires like that. Is there something I should be aware of before doing it that way?

 

I'm not familiar with the amp, but if you are pulling 5100 Watts (RMS or peak?) you're going to need a bit more power, like a high power alt and I'd do caps as well (1F for every 800W-RMS) & a big 3 upgrade. MacLeod is your guy when it comes to competition. I just listen, I don't compete. What size power lead do you have? I'd oversize it majorly and add a distribution block to hook up the caps, second battery, A701, amps, etc. to rather than pull a lead from the radio. Direct to the battery is always the best.

 

lol, the 5.1k is the model number. it's a 5 channel amp. It's fused for 110 amps. I'm running 1/0 to it, even though 4 would work. Grounds will be upgraded as well.

Macleod has helped me with a ton of questions I've had, since he has the same model car that I do. Right now I'm just trying to get everything straight in my head before d-day comes.

thanks again for the help!

btw, the thing about the 5,000 watts is pretty funny. i try to help a lot of people on sounddomain, and they'll throw something like that out from left field, so i can just imagine your reaction when you read that.

 

So what is the RMS Wattage??? 110 Amps gives you a max draw of 1580W. I had an electrical engineer look up your minimum size and it's 1 guage, not 4. If I were you, I'd run the hot lead to a distribution block and another 1/0 to the amp. This would give you the connections that you need for accessories like the 701.

 

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!! and one to grow on - NO!

Do not run from the fuse box to power anything. Its ok for a remote turn on but not for source power.

Youre going to have to break down and get a distribution block and tap into that for both the 701 and the changer.

If you were to use the fuse box as power, you would be laughed out of any IASCA competition not to mention disqualified for safety issues on the install......that is assuming you didnt catch anything on fire on the way there.

Do it right the first time dude.

 

1 sec ..... I've been assuming that this changer is an indash type. Is it? Mac, if it replaces the HU, it couldn't use the stock power lead?