Tapping factory fuse panel
#11
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
Definitely. If its an in-dash unit than the factory power lead will work. Im assuming he's wanting to use a remote changer thatll mount in the trunk. For that, he'll need to run off the power wire he has ran for his amp.
#12
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
Yeah .... I got that from your last post ..... I guess we have to wait to see what he is actually using.
Thumper: 1) What is your amp's RMS Wattage?
2) Is the changer in-dash or trunk mounted?
Thumper: 1) What is your amp's RMS Wattage?
2) Is the changer in-dash or trunk mounted?
#13
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
i'm using an alpine hu. i'll use a harness to power that. i'd just like to power the 701 in the trunk and alpine changer in the glove boxwithout using a distro. so, i can't use an open slot in the fuse block to power it? also, that's a no on tying into the HU power? (i thought that was a bit much for that one feed).
on the amp, it does 60x2, 170x2, and 750x1 @ 4 ohms. i have 1/0 running to the back for the amp. the amp has 2 gauge wire inputs on it, so i figured I'd run 1/0 straight to the amp, then use reducers to actually screw into place.
I appreciate the help on this. I've just been trying to think outside the box a little bit. If I need something like an 8 gauge with a distro for the changer and 701, I can do that. I'd just rather not if possible.
on the amp, it does 60x2, 170x2, and 750x1 @ 4 ohms. i have 1/0 running to the back for the amp. the amp has 2 gauge wire inputs on it, so i figured I'd run 1/0 straight to the amp, then use reducers to actually screw into place.
I appreciate the help on this. I've just been trying to think outside the box a little bit. If I need something like an 8 gauge with a distro for the changer and 701, I can do that. I'd just rather not if possible.
#14
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
1) Radio lead can't be used for the changer; too much draw & not allowed for competition per MacLeod.
2) Why run the lead from the changer to the 701? Just power the 701 from the 1/0 lead. It has the spare capacity that you need.
3) I'd trust the Sr. Electrical Engineer that I work with that a 110 Amp load should be carried by a 1 guage wire rather than using a 2 guage because that is the connector size. I know that you are using 1/0 which is fine.
4) The sound processor isn't going to take that much power, so again there won't be any problem in tapping off of the 1/0 lead. That 1/0 lead can be fused as high as 125 Amps safely per the National Electrical Code.
2) Why run the lead from the changer to the 701? Just power the 701 from the 1/0 lead. It has the spare capacity that you need.
3) I'd trust the Sr. Electrical Engineer that I work with that a 110 Amp load should be carried by a 1 guage wire rather than using a 2 guage because that is the connector size. I know that you are using 1/0 which is fine.
4) The sound processor isn't going to take that much power, so again there won't be any problem in tapping off of the 1/0 lead. That 1/0 lead can be fused as high as 125 Amps safely per the National Electrical Code.
#15
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
it's more of a nuance than anything else...i just don't want to have to put a distro block back there for a single dinky little wire. i'll just run a dedicated 8 gauge and agu distro to power the 701 and changer. i'll put the HU on it as well.
also, on the 1/0, the 12v wiring codes we've seen gives 1/0 at least 250 amps to be fused for, and I think some go up to 300. My understanding was 4 gauge could be fused at 125. Just a thought. Was you guy figuring for house current?
also, on the 1/0, the 12v wiring codes we've seen gives 1/0 at least 250 amps to be fused for, and I think some go up to 300. My understanding was 4 gauge could be fused at 125. Just a thought. Was you guy figuring for house current?
#16
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
I'm guessing this is an obvious no, but if the changer and 701 have their own fuses, can I just solder the power leads to the 8 gauge cable? I've done something similar before, and just covered everything in heatshrink so it's secure and there's no exposed leads. The 8 gauge would be fused at the battery, so there wouldn't be any open or loose ends.
#17
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
I thought that you wanted a CLEAN install!?! A distribution block is a lot neater than soldering the leads together ..... also, I'd expect MacLeod to smack you with a safety rule for competition. Who knows how good your connections are inside the shrinkwrap? If you want to run a power lead for the accessories and HU, I'd suggest getting the battery terminal from the big 3 upgrade that is posted in DIY. That will give you a distribution block under the hood to make those connections neat. You'd still need a dist. block in the car to split up the smaller line. Also, if I were you, I'd get 1.5-2 Farads of capacitance on the 1/0 line to the amp which again points to a dist. block there. The neatest install is also the simplist which is to use the 1/0 for the 701.
#18
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
yeah i totally agree. i'm not trying to cut corners or anything like that, just trying to keep things very minimal. to me, it's a bit of overkill to run a distro block to power the two small accessories. Even if I did that, it's going to look odd soldering an 8 gauge wire to a single 18 gauge power lead. I just wish there was a safe way to use the existing fuse blocks in the car for the 701 and changer.
I'm using a streetwires battery terminal. It has the hookups for everything I need on it.
I know how to correctly do everything with a distro block, I'm just trying to avoid that. I'll just get a smaller fuse block for the accessories.
I'm using a streetwires battery terminal. It has the hookups for everything I need on it.
I know how to correctly do everything with a distro block, I'm just trying to avoid that. I'll just get a smaller fuse block for the accessories.
#19
RE: Tapping factory fuse panel
http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/FU...GE_p_2095.html didnt see that there was a main thread, but that distro is awesome ^_^
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