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Where can i run my power wire?

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  #11  
Old 05-25-2010 | 07:03 PM
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I like Streetwires the most. I'll also use Stinger, Rockford Fosgate, and i've heard some good things about Knu Konceptz. Avoid AGU (round) fuses. Stick with ANL, AFS, MAXI, MIDI, etc.

I use a Stinger fused distro block, with 1/0 in and (4) 4awg out that uses MAXI fuses. Great for loads under 100A. Above 100A youwant ANL fuses.
 
  #12  
Old 05-25-2010 | 09:52 PM
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I'm ordering the Stinger SPD8203 (Gold) and the Stinger SPD813 (Gold) as my main fuse and distribution block, for my 4 gauge wire to 8 gauge will this do just fine? i see the block accepts more inputs than i have, that wont affect anything though will it?

But back to my old question for a second, what side effects am i suffering right now by using 8 gauge power wire? my system sounds fine to me... will it get louder with this cable improvement?
 
  #13  
Old 05-25-2010 | 09:54 PM
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is the 8awg properly fused at the battery - 60A? what kind of fuse?

also,

the latter in your suggestion isn't fused. i don't recommend reducing wire sizes without a new fuse protecting it.
The Stinger SPD5623 or it's gold cousin, would be more suitable. Plus, you can buy MAXI fuses at any autoparts store. You won't find ANL fuses except at local audio shops or online.
 

Last edited by keep_hope_alive; 05-25-2010 at 10:06 PM.
  #14  
Old 05-25-2010 | 09:58 PM
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im not sure of the amperature or type, its a round fuse holder, i did look for some numbering but nothing haha, where should i look to find this info?
 
  #15  
Old 05-25-2010 | 10:18 PM
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it's an AGU fuse. the rating is printed on the ends of the fuse. you need to remove it to see.

If you're not drawing more than 60A than the fuse is fine, it also tells you you're output is less than 350W total with both amps.
 
  #16  
Old 05-25-2010 | 10:46 PM
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which is hard to believe since they are both rated at much higher than 350W rms each...
 
  #17  
Old 05-25-2010 | 11:07 PM
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it's easy to believe since you're not blowing the fuse. a 60A fuse will allow at most 720W average power input to the amp. The amps are 50-60% efficient, so you're down to <400W RMS output from all amps combined. Futher consider that you must be below the fuse rating and you're down to about 350W. you'd be surprised to know how little power it actually takes to drive speakers for your average listening volume.

increasing your power wire will reduce the voltage drop at the amps = more output power available. also, by increasing the current handling capability of the power and ground wiring - you'll have more power available.
 
  #18  
Old 05-25-2010 | 11:16 PM
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I can see where your calculations are coming from haha, sorry to sound disbelieving, is it possible the fuse is rated at higher than 60 amps? or is that the highest amount the wire can handle or something? I'm not at all knowledgeable with electricity and whatnot.

even so, I'm not going to mess anything up by going with the new wire, fuse and distribution block correct? i may be down 50 bucks but that's alright haha.

I was looking at my stock battery negative wire and even that looks like its smaller than or near 4 gauge standards. can that be replaced with 1/0 gauge to improve my overall voltage?
 
  #19  
Old 05-25-2010 | 11:35 PM
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i recommend upgrading your factory grounds when adding an aftermarket sound system. refer to my alt upgrade thread in this section.

8awg is good for 60A. fusing higher than that would be a fire hazard. You'll be glad you upgraded to 4awg wire. Definitely upgrade the grounds at the battery.
 
  #20  
Old 05-27-2010 | 12:50 PM
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So i got the chance to check out my current fuse, the one connected to my 8awg wire from the battery, and it only says: AUE 30... Does that seriously mean the fuse is rated at 30 amps??? are my speaker amplifiers that bad? the fuses on the amps themselves are rated at 2 x 25 on the 4 channel, and 2 x 40 on the monoblock. what does that mean?
 


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