a high output alt is only gonna do so much unless you upgrade the big 3. and i dont know why you say a 300 amp alt wont fit in stock location. are you refering to your accord? cause it fits in my blzer no problem. btw, i like your link to that maxximus. even that overrated piece of crap prolly needs a couple runs of 0awg. my merlin md2 needs 1 run of 0awg alone

 

Thats Elite Summer Nationals. Its one of the largest shows of the year. I will be at that one for MECA SQ.

There is also a big show in Nashville this Sunday that Ill be going to. $500, $300 and $200 prizes for first 3 highest scores. I guarantee you none of them will be me but the money will bring out the big dawgs and its always fun competing against them and seeing how I stack up next to them.

I dont post on caraudio.com. I browsed there a couple times and seemed like everybody only wanted to fight and argue. I post regularly on the Polk Audio forum and Carsound.com. The Polk forum is a pretty basic forum where Carsound is more advanced. It used to be frequented by major industry gurus and big wigs and the forum archives are a wealth of knowledge. Elitecaraudio.com is also a great forum. Very advanced. I dont post over there but it is a superb resource.

 

dont care about your blazer, this was all in reference to an accord, odd thing being an accord forum and all, and once again, the main one you need to ground is the alternator cause ultimately thats the only one of the 3 that doesnt have an existing ground beyond the connection to the engine

but yeah, you kinda need 0awg for any high current amp thats over 1200 watts, at least if the batterys not sitting next to the amp of course, but then you leave the recharge to a 0awg connection lol

 

well you never specified, so your bad. and either way, a 300 amp alt is nothing to be bowing down to. my farts produce more power than 1200watts. if 1200watts is all your talking about, then do the big 3 and leave it at that. i thought we were talking about real power here. and maybe im just not understanding your point of view here, but it plain and simple...bigger wire = less resistance. there is no down side to that. unless you consider spending an extra $10 on wire a big deal. id much rather spend a little more on wire than have to worry about it later.

btw, the ground from the alt to the block is most likely the best ground youll ever have in your accord. all you gotta worry about it the block to the chassis.

 

not really my bad, you assumed and i didnt really care that you assumed. its all about getting other people to rant and rave more, oh, and dont forget changing the premise of comments in the middle of it. but any way you look at it this thread was started by someone most likely having a system in an accord, and theres no room in an for a 10kw system and even with a 2kw system you have to make sacrifices to have it fit the trunk and 1kw is real power, its just in spl if you want to set records you it wont be enough no matter what enclosure you have, but you can still manage 150db off a properly designed sub/case. and yeah, bigger wire in most cases does mean less resistance but like i said before unless youre running a system that justifies it you wont ever need more the 4awg, but im glad to see youre prepared to run competition spl.

but sorry to hear that you farts produce more then 1200w's.... you must have bleeding ulcers but im sure thats not the only problem you have ^_-

 

I didnt know a battery question could cause 3 pages of comemnts! lol

I may do the big three, and see how that goes. Then maybe a yellow top.

 

if youre current battery is on its last leg, thats also a good excuse to get one

 

well i dont see why i couldnt fit a large alt in my accord, and i got a v6. my 260amp alt is just a tiny bit bigger than stock.

saying a 10kw system wont fit in an accord is just ignorant. just b/c a system is 10kw, doesnt mean it needs to take up an entire astro van. you know, there are very powerful subs out there that are very efficient in small enclosures, right? more likely than not, with 10kw you wont have any trunk space, but thats not to say 10kw system=impossible. im running 2600watts, and when i complete my box it will only take up about half my trunk if that. and im talking about 5-6 cubes here.

you are right about high sound pressure levels being hard to achieve in a trunk. i never said that wasnt true, nor did i say im even trying for that, let alone competing. hell, i dont even know how we got on this subject. point is, there is no downside to doig the big 3 and doing it in 0awg, unless you consider spending a couple extra bucks a downside. i really dont get why you think you have to be a pro or something to be using 0awg. i know not everyone is pushing 1500+watts, but still why not do it? i dont show off my "0awg big 3". i dont even know why anyone would give 2 ****s about the size of your wire, thats just stupid.

original poster just needs to do the big 3. its the most econimically feasible solution for the problem. if hes filthy rich, then do it all up, but the big 3 (in whatever gauge wire you chose) should be the first thing tried.

 

its not ignorant to say a 10kw system wont it and im saying subs and amps, cause think about it, you can have all small enclosures but when it defeats the purpose of having that kind of system to being with assuming it would be running at that level, so really unless you can show me a 10kw system that fits in the trunk, the alternative takes up a bit more then just the trunk. Besides, you can have a small encloser but i dont know of any subs off hand that are amazing in a minimalists enclosure either.
I know for i4 accord alternators doesnt go much higher then 180amp for the stock location because no one makes a larger housing for the stock location, that may not be true for the v6 models, i dont really know, but my searches havent shown high output alternators that break the 200 amp range for any accord. When i was trying to get a higher amp alternator for my car i tried to use the stock housing and they said they couldnt do over 120amps with it.... and all i could think to myself was bs. At least i found my 180 amp one
As for caring about wiresizes being stupid, yeah, i have seen plenty of forums showing off their big 3 wiring and people going, omg that looks so cool! but those are the same people that want turbo wistlers and the bov sound without actually having a turbo. If you want i can reference many bottom feeders that think their car is the best thing on the street just cause they put ground effects and a cheap body kit on their civic. I can probably get pictures for you too.

 

marbro: I really hate to agree with Fat Ryan, but if you look at this, you'll see one of the highest rated subs pushing 2700W taking up 1.3 cu.ft. Three of them plus a 1900W mid/high amp hits the 10k mark.

http://www.sunfire.com/TrueSubwooferEQSigPR.htm