All fixed, this is just a quick report. First thanks to all the posts on here, it helped me to get a better understanding of the electrical. I've never worked on automotive electrical before so dispelling some of the mystery was great. I didn't find any problems/solutions like mine, so I'm adding this in.

2001 Accord 4D, 4cyl

Problem: Rear power-window (driver side) stopped half-raised. No action in either direction. Under-dash and engine fuses looked fine. After disassembling both rear doors, I confirmed that both switch and motor were functional. No power to the switch.

Troubleshooting: First, found and verified fuses under dash and in engine. Used known good fuses to make sure it wasn't just a fault in a fuse.

Second, disassembled switches on both rear doors and tested known-good scenarios. Failing switch worked fine on passenger-side door. Working switch failed on the driver-side door. So the switch wasn't the problem.

Third, removed rear p/w actuator , plugged in to passenger-side harnesses and it worked fine. So the motor wasn't the problem.

I figured out that the clicking noise when activating the switch indicated power and confirmed my suspicion that power wasn't getting to the failing switch harness. Read the internet for ideas and understanding of auto electrical and the accord systems. Eventually realized that the p/w systems is relatively simple circuit and started trying testing scenarios using my multimeter.

On the working door, I tried to figure out which wires were power, ground, traveller, etc. I crossed circuits or had the wrong setting on my multimeter, b/c I blew the fuse. Put in a new fuse and decided just to start by figuring out the grounding situation.

Test lead to ground at battery, I found that there was only one wire in the switch harness continuous to ground (W/r in my case). Also using the grounded lead, I identified the power-in (W/bl), and and ID'd the forward/reverse wires providing current to the motor.

On the failing switch, I couldn't find any wire continuous to ground. Not sure of myself or of the exact wiring config (with no power to get voltages), I didn't want to snap judge - but then I realized that I had tested both switches in the same harness, so obviously the ground wire must be in exactly the same position (also W/r - be kind remember this is my first foray to auto electrical). Checked and double-checked, no continuity to ground on the failing switch harness.

Soooo, I cut the wire, jumped the cut wire in the harness to ground at the battery, lo and behold I started measuring voltage in the harness. Plugged everything back in, and the motor works.

I never really considered trying to trace an open ground through the chassis of the car. I assumed it probably connected somewhere to the other windows, but those all work fine. I thought it might share a grounding sitch with the power lock and door lights, but those all work fine too.

So my solution was simply to jump the ground from the harness to a screw that I drilled into the interior door frame, cap off the old ground wire, and put everything back together. It's working great!

While I was buying the butt splices and some wire, I went ahead and picked up the Haynes manual. I see now that the grounds all go through the master p/w safety switch. That makes great sense now that I understand the circuit, and I confirmed that the jury-rigged window ignores the safety switch now. No interest at all in disassembling another door on the off chance of finding the open ground, so I'm calling it done.

Thanks for reading and for the helpful forum.

Joel