Need Info on how to change rotors for 06 accord
#2
Brake Pads: Remove the lower slider pin bolt holding the caliper to the caliper bracket, swing the caliper up and tie it there with twin or wire, pull the pads out, lube the shims (back) of the new pads and slide them in. Compress and turn the caliper piston back into the caliper, install everything in reverse order, but take out both slider pins this time and give them a healthy coating of high-temp moly grease or "brake grease".
Brake Rotors:
Take the wheel off, remove the two screws on the rotor (these are probably rusted and need drilling), remove the caliper, pads, caliper bracket from the hub, tap on the rotor with a hammer to free the rotor from the hub, slide new rotor over hub and reinstall everything. Install wheel and torque lugs to 80 lb. ft.
I probably left a few things out, but nothing a Haynes/Chilton/Helm's manual won't cover.
Brake Rotors:
Take the wheel off, remove the two screws on the rotor (these are probably rusted and need drilling), remove the caliper, pads, caliper bracket from the hub, tap on the rotor with a hammer to free the rotor from the hub, slide new rotor over hub and reinstall everything. Install wheel and torque lugs to 80 lb. ft.
I probably left a few things out, but nothing a Haynes/Chilton/Helm's manual won't cover.
#3
Pads
1)Lift the car in a place that you can easily remove the wheel and get access to the brakes.
2)Remove the wheel
3)Remove the two pin bolts on the top portion of the caliper
4)Slid out the slid pins
4)Remove the two set bolts on the bottom portion of the caliper
5)Gentle remove the caliper (be sure that you don't ever have the working
mechanism suspended by its own weight)
^Seriously very important do not let it hang by the brake line suspend it somehow I usually use a wire hanger cut in half
6)Now the that you can remove the pad portion of the caliper you can take it and put your new pads in. Be sure that you greased the pads and pins.
If all your doing is changing your pads repeat in reverse order.
Once the wheel and caliper has been removed it's pretty easy to get to the disc
Disc
Looking head on at the disc there should be several bronze screws in the disc. There are three for the front and two for the rear.
1)Remove the set screws (these usually will need to be removed with carefully taking an air hammer and starting the motion, 90% of the time they strip if done otherwise.)
2)With some effort the disc should come off with the screws removed
3)Once the disc has been removed simply install the new disc in the reverse order.
4)It may be needed that you will have to install new set screws the part number is 93600-06014-0H and there only about .50 each.
5)Reinstall the caliper and the brakes are almost done
Any time there is a change to a friction part on a car, it needs to learn to "bite" more often called bedding your breaks. To do this with the brakes there will be several low speed stops.
1)From 5-10 MPH make several low speed stops. These are not panic stops, just a low speed stop.
2)After this is done its time to take it to an area that you can drive without traffic.
3)Once traveling at about 60 MPH brake several times (not completely) to allow the discs to heat up
4)From this point you make several near stops.... from a speed of 60 MPH you will hit the brakes hard to a slower speed of 10 MPH. All this time it is important to not stop the car. Once stopped you have ruined the process and possibly even your new discs
5)After about the 8th time this has been completed it is time to let the brakes cool. The brakes are now extremely hot and need to cool. So drive at about 60 MPH without hitting your brakes (if needed you can slow down but do your best to find a spot that you can drive uninterrupted.
Now if you have chosen stock or near stock set-up you should be done. In some cases another round of bedding is needed. And if pedal feel isn't firm enough after bedding, you may want to bleed your brakes.
That should be it for you. I can post some pictures if you need, I'm going to be installing my rear brakes within the next day or two.
Last edited by J30_tuner; 03-18-2009 at 03:26 PM.
#4
i own a 96 accord and when changing my rotors i had to get the bearing hub pressed out and then have the new rotors pressed back in with it. also the screw holding the brake shield plate can be quite a hassle. my haynes manual didn't even talk about them yet i found 3 on each side(front) holding the brake shield. if you cannot get these out they need to be drilled out
#5
i own a 96 accord and when changing my rotors i had to get the bearing hub pressed out and then have the new rotors pressed back in with it. also the screw holding the brake shield plate can be quite a hassle. my haynes manual didn't even talk about them yet i found 3 on each side(front) holding the brake shield. if you cannot get these out they need to be drilled out
#7
Welcome to HAF....really should not post here. I'll leave it for now.
To the left just like a normal bolt/screw. A "hand impact driver" - google that - makes quick work of those screws. When going back in with them, I add some anti-seize to the screws. Helps the next person.
To the left just like a normal bolt/screw. A "hand impact driver" - google that - makes quick work of those screws. When going back in with them, I add some anti-seize to the screws. Helps the next person.
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Dr. Funkenstein
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10-20-2011 05:17 PM