Accords 1990-1997

People have different ways to do this job,

I have seen people use a puller to pull the hubs, it is a little faster but i do not like it because i have seen it ruin the bearing , and that will cost extra money..

I have seen people take the whole knuckle out,
I don't do it that way ,you have to remove unneeded components, , it takes too long,

Not everyone is going to agree or like with my way of doing it, I am sure someone feels their way is better, if so by all means do it your way.....I have done it my way for a number of years. after trying the other ways as well and i find this way to be the easiest anf fastet,

Anyho..

Parts needed : rotors, ( Honda or Brembo) , frt pads ( if less than 40 % , ( use honda pads, ) non Honda pads have a tendency to squeak, cutter pin,

If you are going to use air tools ,1/2 in or 3/4 in impact gun will do the trick on the axle nut.

Tools needed :I would reccomend using 1/2 sockets, extensions , Rachets bar, , and extension bars, extention pipe, Biggest and heaviest friend you can find,, 14mm , 6 point impact socket, 36mm impact socket, ( the reason to use impact socket is that they are a lot stronger than regular chrome socket ,, i have seen a few chrome socket break trying to loosen up the axle nut, ) 17mm socket, 19mm socket or wheel lug tool, side cutter, punch, big hammer, 10mm , 12 point socket, 12mm socket, ball joint remover, if you have one, big screwdriver, floor jack, jack stands, sand paper, 14mm, 17mm wrenches
c-clamp

Before anything, put the E-barke on, car in park or in gear, if car has the big wheel covers, while car is still on the ground, remove 2 lug nuts, remove the plastic rings, reinstall lug nuts, rethighten them, remove the other 2 lug nuts, remove the wheel cover, reinstall the other 2 lug nuts no need to remove the plastic rings on these 2 ,, So all 4 lugs nuts are back on the wheel and tight, loosen the axle nut, do not remove at this time, this is where you biggest friend comes in handy,have someone apply the brake pedal as well. use the 36mm socket, pry bar, extension pipe,, loosen the nut, once loose, Do the same on the other side if you are replacing both rotors,
Once loose, raise the car up and set in on jack stands, Remove the wheel, ...

remove the axle nut completely, remove the lower caliper bolt, 14 or 17 mm, depends on car model ,swing caliper out of the way, remove the 2 17mm bolts for the caliper bracket, there are 4, 14mm bolts on the hub, thats what actually holds the rotor on , loosen those up,but do not remove yet. use a good 14 mm 6 point socket, these bolts strip easily, remove the cutter pin at the lower ball joint castle nut, remove the nut , if you have a ball joint remover use it to separate ball joint from the knuckle, if you don't have one, use the big hammer to hit the control arm just below the ball joint, this will separate it, careful not to miss and hit the threads on the ball joint, actuall it is a good idea to leave the nut in there attached by a few threads,
Once it is separated, lift the knuckle up, with the hammer hit the axle to separate it from the knuckle, swing the knuckle out of the way,with a screwdriver, pry the axle out of the tranny and remove the axle, axle will slide out of the fork frame, on lower strut, if you got non factory struts , you might have to remove the fork, there are 4 bolts on the back side of the hub , where the axle slides in, on some cars they are 12mm , 6 point, on some they are 10mm 12 points, remove those 4 bolts,

Now i use a tool from MATCO, part # LT825.. which goes on the center of the back side of the hub where you just removed those 4 bolts, a few hits with a hammer and the assembly comes out,

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ltilt825.html

I am sure most of you do not have it, so we will do it the harder way,

reposition the knuckle back in the lower control arm, istall loosely the ball joint nut, get the big hammer and hit the rotors do not worry about damaging it if you are going to replace it anyways,,
Once out, remove the 4 14mm bolts holding the rotor to the hub , replace the rotor,

Before reinstalling it, get some sand paper and clean the area where the hub will go into the knuckle, clean the surface of the hub as well....

Reinstall everything in reverse order,, make sure to stake the axle nut with a punch, after nut is tight,

Also you need to squeeze in the caliper piston ,new rotors are ticker and caliper will not slide over the new rotor,, use the c-clamp to squueze piston in, ,,

AS always chk all your work, make sure nuts and bolts are tight,,

Here is a write up with picture ,a different way to do it

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1281812

 

Looks pretty good, however, I never liked separating the ball joint as it seems impossible to do without damaging the boots. In the past I've just removed the axle nut and pushed the axle out enough to access the 4 bolts. Then smacked the rotors out with a dead blow to pull the bearing carrier out.