Attached is a write-up on how I replaced the lower control arm bushings on a Honda Accord 4CYL 2007 SE.

Hope you find it useful!

 

I am going to change the pax lower control arm on my 2007 accord tomorrow. Hopefully this guide will help me out.

 

Did you ever get your project done that you were going to do in the above post?

WheelBrokerAng

 

Yea, the pictures definitely helped out a lot. Especially since this is the first time I have done anything like this. The old control arm definitely needed to be replaced.

 

John C,
This was an absolutely awesome guide for the bushing replacement. I had less difficulty with LCA removal as PB blast soak and breaker bar w/cheater worked. But this Accord only has 115K on it. The real blessing for me was the pix confirming that the compliance bushing has a specific orientation. I'm taking these to my machine shop to get them pressed in correctly.
Thanks for your step by step description.
Hoopers Garage
PS I think its time I posted some of my repairs that may be helpful to other DIYs.

 

Thank you for joining the HAF and posting with us.

Feel free to keep on posting and adding to what you know and how to fix it.

WheelBrokerAng

 

Thanks for posting. I love these posts.

Many of the tools can be borrowed for free at AutoZone, O'Rielly or similar stores.

It was fun to compare to my '65 Corvair when I replaced everything. Suspension parts were stamped steel. Lots of grease fittings. I had more rust. Did not reuse any bolts. My Corvair was about 40 years old at the time with 110,000 miles. Cars at that era were lucky to make ten years and 100k.

Safety note. Be sure the car is well supported. I used jack stands and two floor jacks as back up. I also put a cement block underneath, but it carried no weight. Also beware a compressed spring can kill.

 

The job is done and got rid of all squeaks, noises, plus handing is almost like new. To summarize, I replaced the compliance bushings (front) and fork bushings (middle) on L and R front lower control arms. Also both lower ball joints (source of some binding and noise). I also did both front wheel bearings, though these were probably OK. I did so since the knuckes were already out of the car. (PS make sure the magnetic, brown side of the bearings face inboard)
Also, torque to spec equally on both sides under vehicle weight. Tip: While still on jackstands, reassemble it all, including wheels with lugnuts. Slide ramps under the front wheels. Use your floor jack to raise the car and position the ramps proper. you have roonm for the torque wrench, then click on ...
Lower the car and torque lugnuts to spec
Also, a FE or all wheel alignment is certainly inorder.