starts and runs fine until the engine get to operating temperature then it sputter and dies and wont start or run until it cools down. All help is appreciated what do you guys think it could be

 

Is Check Engine Light on?

Any recent work on the engine?

good luck

 

no check engine light. the last thing i did was change the oil and it was fine after that it started doing it out of no where. I also checked everythong fuel related so thats not the problem.

 

When no-start occurs, notice whether your Alternator and Check Engine Light come On or stay Off. If the lights stay off, you may have an intermittent keyswitch.

If they stay On, turn keyswitch to Off and back to On w/ everything off in the car and listen carefully for 1) relay under driver's dash to click and fuel pump in trunk to run for 2-3 secs. If you don't hear these, the fuel pump is not working, which may be Main Fuel Relay fault or bad fuel pump.

If you hear relay and fuel pump OK, then problem may be ignition related, perhaps faulty coil. You need to confirm that you're not getting spark to the plugs when no-start occurs. If you have a timing light attach light pickup to one spark lead, and turn engine over. If you don't get flashes from the timing light, then spark is missing. Another way to check is to remove a sprark plug lead, stick a screwdriver into the lead connector and bring the screwdriver near engine ground. If no spark jumps to ground when engine turns over, then spark is missing.

Post back your results for further help.

good luck

 

the relay and fuel pump is operating im getting spark i also thought it was a faultly coil so i changed it and still the same problem

 

You indicate the problem is intermittent, and only stops and fails to start at operating temperature. Did you check fuel supply and spark when at operating temperature and no-start condition? A cold system check will not find the problem.

If you have a timing light try checking spark w/ timing light. This is a better indicator since the spark must jump across spark plug gap w/ compressed air (more resistance) present.

If you have fuel, spark (timed correctly), and compression the engine should start and run. Lack of compression doesn't seem possible w/ a car that starts cold, so that only leaves spark and fuel. One way or the other, one of these is missing when engine stops and fails to start. First step is always to decide which is missing.

Perhaps some intermittent fuel pump or blockage is occurring. One option to rule out fuel supply is to rig a fuel pressure gauge and tape to outside of windshield where you can see while driving. If fuel pressure falls when no start occurs, then somethings going wrong.

It's possible you have a heat-sensitive ignitor that is opening up when fully warmed condition occurs. However, this would cause loss of spark.

I know you have checked fuel and spark, but I suspect you're overlooking something.

Tough problems require extraordinary persistance and patience. I've had a few of these and know the frustration. Keep plugging away!

good luck

 

Check the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug cables and spark plugs.
I had the same issue two weeks ago on the day I got the oil changed and stopped at the gas station to fill up. Had to get my car towed to the shop.
Changed the spark plugs, spark plug cables and ignition coil with no results.
Eventually it turned out to be the distributor.
Like TexasHonda said, I know the frustration. But you have to change test one component at a time.
I really hope its not the distributor in your case, because thats the most expensive part.
If you can get away with just replacing the cap or rotor that would be perfect. The cap and rotor will cost you around $15 each in autozone.
I would say change the spark plug cables, plugs, cap and rotor(if you have not changed it recently). It may be time for the tune up anyway. Since you said you can hear the fuel pump running, you can rule out the main relay and fuel pump. However, check the fuel filter as well.
Remove the distributor cap and turn the engine, see if the rotor is rotating freely and fast. That should give you a clue where the issue is.
Good luck.

 

i changed the plugs,plug wires,cap,rotor,and ignition control module. i totaly forgot to put alignment marks on the distributor and i cant find the tdc mark on the crankshaft pulley

 

so i found the timing mark and got it timed and still the same problem. Could it be the distributor its self?

 

Just to confirm, did you check the fuel filter? It costs around $50 instead of distributor which is around $350(new).
Does the engine crank at all after it stalls? or is it just the click click?
Since you have checked(changed) all other possibilities, I would say its the fuel filter or the distributor. There some videos on you tube to see if you are getting Fuel off the filter by loosening the fuel filter nut. You can try that and see if you are getting fuel at all. And if you are getting Fuel there, then you can rule out the fuel filter and the pump.
Test if the distributor is getting proper voltage(12V) on the yellow wire in the distributor harness, and also inside the distributor(remove the cap and check).
I am posting the link to my thread, where many ppl helped me out.
You have done almost all the steps described there, however, before changing the distributor just go through those steps in that thread once again, just to make sure you didnt miss anything.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=36109

Good luck.