Discuss.

 

Try http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/index.php and post your question there. I am a recent Accord EX owner and have the same goals.

Good hunting.

 

depends on how much money you wanna drop on mods. Get back with us on that and we can help you.

 

Hi,
I would like to get the discussion started with that. As I mentioned, I had just purchased a 2010 Accord EX with the I4 K24Z3 engine. My 2006 I4 seems like a V6 compared to this new car, so I want to know what I can do. I was seeing posts related to CAIs and wondered if they are legal for my engine in NY. My engine is a PZEV so I guess that means it's CA smog legal - not sure. If I get one anyway, does that mean I will not pass emissions inspection? Do I have to change to the air intake box prior? The exhaust is not something I am likely to change if I can get away with it. Besides I read that for 2010 it is more advanced than prior years and I'm not going to mess with it. I don't have enough testimonials read as far as chipped ECU's go so I'm reluctant to do that too.

I guess my choices are few to none for improvements "for now". I want to see what becomes available in the coming months or the next couple of years.

Question: What's the word on break-in? The dealer says there is no break-in oil used for this vehicle and want hear what others have said. Because of the performance gap, I find myself pushing the 2010 a bit more than I should. No redline but once in a while approaching 5k on the tach.

Thanks for any advice

 

The factory fill engine oil has molybdenum (that’s “moly” for short), a special lubricant applied by the factory to critical engine components during assembly. Generally, Honda recommends the factory fill engine oil remain in the engine until the first scheduled maintenance interval.
The break in period they speak of, is the time when the piston rings seal, nowadays this is what the break in is all about in new engines...
Proper break in procedures differ from everyone you ask... Some will say take it easy, some will say give it hell...
The rule of thumb though is to vary the engine rpms with a load on the engine... This can be heavy to mid heavy acceleration through the rpm range and deceleration...
This should be done untill at least 3 to 500 miles, although most of the engine break in are done in the first 20 minutes of driving... Then from 500 to 1500 miles while still varying rpms, do 5-10 WOT pulls spread out through the milage, then after that give her hell...

 

The problem with easy break in is the honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

 

What does that mean "...soon enough"? Please explain in the context of the thread.
Thanks

 

""If the rings aren't forced against the walls "soon enough"(usually the first 20 miles), they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re-hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again...""
9 out of 10 Times you will have nothing to worry about... Most of the time the motor is already broken in by the time you get in it to drive it home... This is just one opinion on proper break in...Sorry if this freaked you out, was just trying to explain "break in" for you as you asked... If the motor has not broken in properly, you will know it after the first 1500 miles... Excessive blow by or a decrease in gas milage
will let you know... Your vehicle should be under warranty, so if something does go wrong, you are worry free... Thanks for readingl .......

 

Thanks for the insight. So based on what you commented on, all moving surfaces are properly "mated" I think though hindsight tells me that I should still not push the RPMs until the first oil change. What is your opinion?

 

Discuss.