Any shop can read the codes. It takes 5 minutes to hook up the reader to the ODB2 port.

 

Gonna go to autozone and they do it for free, hopefully that will tell me what's going on. I'm wondering if my rebuilt tranny is giving out on me after 15k miles but i have a feeling its more of something needing to be reset. I disconnected the battery for about an hour but that didn't reset the ECU (as i've read places where it will). I took out one of the 7.5A fuses by the driver size fuse box for 10 seconds and that doesn't do anything either.

 

Possibly you disconnected the wiring for the gearshift selector, NOT the interlock solenoid. I don't remember what all wiring is down there in that general area.

I don't have the detailed Helm book any more so can't say exactly where stuff is. Disconnect the harnesses to the taillamp clusters & try again. If it doesn't blow, you know the short is in one of the sections that you disconnected.

Got a multimeter? You canmeasure resistance to groundfor each section so you don't have to blow another 12 fuses to find it.

 

You're right, it was not the interlock solonoid, I guess I got confused with another based on a picture I was looking at or something I was reading. I believe I did disconnect the wiring for the gearshift selector.

I ended up going to Autozone, getting some codes, and I'll post those shortly. Gotta do some other things first, but I dropped the car off at the shop and hopefully my mechanic can get to it today or tomorrow. I was going to take out all the tail light bulbs and see if the fuse popped as well but forgot about doing that. Hopefully this doesn't set me back too much and I can get my car back quicikly.

 

I got the following codes by checking with Autozones OBD II.

P1298 - Manuf. Control Fuel Metering
P1166 - Manuf. Control Fuel Metering
P1167 - Manuf. Control Fuel Metering
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0700 - Transmission Control System Malfunction
P1768 - Manuf. Control Transmission

I then replaced the 20A fuse under the hood that kept blowing and before testing it out I ran the OBD II again and the only codes that showed up were the P1166, P0700, and P1768.

I have detailed descriptions for all except the P1167 and P0141. They are as follows:

P1298:
- Defintion:
Electrical Load Detector Circut High Input

-Probable Causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Failed ECM


P1166:
- Defintion:
Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System Electrical

-Probable Causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed HO2S sensor


P0700:
- Defintion:
Automatic Transmission Fault

-Probable Causes:
1. Indicates trans fault - Check other codes


P1768:
- Defintion:
Lock up clutch does not engage - Stuck in 4th gear

-Probable Causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition in pressure control solenoid A circuit
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed pressure control solenoid A

 

P1298 is for Electrical Load Detector (not fuel metering). That's built into the under-hood fuse box & it measures electrical current being used in the car.

P0141 is the heater for the 2nd O2 sensor back in the cat. That could be caused by the blown fuse so it might go away when you have the short circuit fixed.

P1166 & 1167 are just for the ULEV engine, so you must have that engine. Your front O2 sensor is SPECIAL - different from us normal Accords... including it's preheater gets power from a different fuse vs. the rest of us. But it STILL might be caused in some roundabout way by the blown fuses. Wait & see.

0700 & 1768 are indeed auto-tranny codes. Don't look at me for expertise on auto-trannys.

 

Crap, I'm hoping this doesn't cost more than say 800 bucks. Thanks for the additional info. I figured that some of the other codes that got cleared were because of the cold air intake I installed a couple months back. Is that possible?

 

I don't know about the codes being caused by the CAI, but if they don't come back that's OK.

O2 sensor stuff should be way cheaper than that. I've got no clue about the tranny stuff. New/rebuilt tranny would be pricey but I don't knowabout those particular codes.

 

I just got a rebuilt tranny 10k miles ago, cost me 1k installed. It's under warranty for a year and I've had it only for 2 or 3 months. So if it is the tranny itself, I shouldn't have to worry about cost. But I'm hoping the total isn't more than that 800.

 

you do know that you can stick a key or pen in the hole besides the shifter and turn your car to drive right? the car is not useless...