I've heard of putting K20 pistons in with this build. brings up the compression ratio and the horsepower. this engine can put out 250 horsepower. weather thats at the crank or at the wheels. look at tuner magazine. thats where i saw this (for those who want this engine without turbo...like ME!) (I WISH)

 

if you really read the honda tuner build you will see that he spend 6k to make that 250hp. He is working on a budget not spending that much and wishes to have his power goals higher. It's not just the k20 pistons that make all the power...go reread that build there was ALOT more involved than just slapping in the k20 pistons. Just by adding k20 pistons is just pushing the engine to make close to 200WHP..same as a h22 with a lower redline.

 

well to just finish the swap and get it JSUT running. I need axles trans..5speed swap parts clutch, new engine/trans mounts and the timing components dizzy, timing belt and fresh water pump. Then she will be just running to work the kinks out and then I will slap the turbo on when all the kinks are worked out of the engine.

 

I hit a snag on my build. My suspenssion just crapped out on me, setting me back 1000 bucks. On the bright side I get some Yellow Konis installed by thrusday! I'll upload the pictures so anyone interested can see my new stance.

 

if i do that swap from what i heard is that i would usually have to change the water pump is that true? also would it be worth just doing that h22 tranny swap also? im on a low budget so im tryin to make it all work. right now i am having trouble with my car. it keeps reving by itself so i figured it be the o2 sensor so i replaced the up stream and down stream but that didnt do the trick so i brought it in and the shop told me it was the egr valve and deleted the code and told me the problem should go away but still acting up so let me know if u do

 

yes you will need a f22/23 water pump which ever block your using you need that water pump and you will need a h22 water pump GEAR and have it pressed onto the f22/23 water pump. vtec has more teeth on the gears than non vtec does. It would be worth doin a h22/23 trans swap BUT it's not needed unless you’re a auto trans then you will need to do a 5speed swap). you can use a f series trans..just the h22/23 trans have shorter gears better to put the power down to the ground unlike the f series trans. Also you will need a h22 and f series water pipe. You will need to cut them in half and use the f22 water pump side and weld the h22 thermo side 2geather. You can also to use some type of rubber pipe to make the connection between the 2 then you don’t and thvae to weld...but it it’s the better bet for no leaks by welding.

 

sorry guys but this is going to be moved over to engine and internal this is more of a discussion than a DIY write up. But once the OP starts doing a full write up I will move it back.

 

sounds good to me, thanks man, I started to feel a little bad for leaving you guys hanging.

 

After a couple random posts in the middle, it might be better to save your info & write up a new thread for DIY. We can also split off (or copy) individual posts & re-combine to make a DIY thread without the unrelated stuff.

 

I know the thread is somewhat on pause but im currently gathering parts for the same g23 vtec w/boost build. Im currently looking for a compatible ecu. What ecu are you (sanchdaniel) going to use on your g23? I have been researching this build for the past 6 months and cant find some concrete info. I want to keep it obdII so that i can pass emissions, its my daily driver. I know that most people are converting from obd II to I with the p13. I also know that i can put the AEM plug and play in with minimal problems for $1000+. I just want know know if there is a successful obd II g23 build or what i would need for one? Any help would be great.