to grind or not to grind (my cam)
#1
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to grind or not to grind (my cam)
I have a 92 accord coup. I need to replace the timing belt here shortly and I'm wondering if I should go ahead and have the cam reground for more mid range power and a beafier sounding idle. It's only about $100 if you supply your own cam. I know it's not going to give me fifty more horses- probably only five or ten but horse power is horse power right? Unfortunately my ride is an automatic, which, I've been told can't take a whole lot of extra power, but if I just goose it once in a while, with all the mods I want, I don't see why I can't have an automatic input appreciated.
Live long and drive hard,
fly68
Live long and drive hard,
fly68
Last edited by fly68; 04-01-2009 at 12:55 PM. Reason: spelling
#3
Okay... let's do this right, shall we?
1) You can't just take the cam out, grind it and throw it back in. Who calculated the degrees of duration and lift? What shop is doing a $100 grind job?
2) Any change in valve timing is going to require an adjustable cam gear and a tuning platform to compensate cam and ignition timing to actually MAKE power on a new cam. Your idle will likely be gone, or higher than you want it to be. Sitting at the light idling at 1500 rpm may get you some looks.
3) The tuner at a local shop here will not even touch an adjustable cam during a tune. Cam degreeing must be done on the engine stand.
1) You can't just take the cam out, grind it and throw it back in. Who calculated the degrees of duration and lift? What shop is doing a $100 grind job?
2) Any change in valve timing is going to require an adjustable cam gear and a tuning platform to compensate cam and ignition timing to actually MAKE power on a new cam. Your idle will likely be gone, or higher than you want it to be. Sitting at the light idling at 1500 rpm may get you some looks.
3) The tuner at a local shop here will not even touch an adjustable cam during a tune. Cam degreeing must be done on the engine stand.
#5
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
thanks for cam info
Okay... let's do this right, shall we?
1) You can't just take the cam out, grind it and throw it back in. Who calculated the degrees of duration and lift? What shop is doing a $100 grind job?
2) Any change in valve timing is going to require an adjustable cam gear and a tuning platform to compensate cam and ignition timing to actually MAKE power on a new cam. Your idle will likely be gone, or higher than you want it to be. Sitting at the light idling at 1500 rpm may get you some looks.
3) The tuner at a local shop here will not even touch an adjustable cam during a tune. Cam degreeing must be done on the engine stand.
1) You can't just take the cam out, grind it and throw it back in. Who calculated the degrees of duration and lift? What shop is doing a $100 grind job?
2) Any change in valve timing is going to require an adjustable cam gear and a tuning platform to compensate cam and ignition timing to actually MAKE power on a new cam. Your idle will likely be gone, or higher than you want it to be. Sitting at the light idling at 1500 rpm may get you some looks.
3) The tuner at a local shop here will not even touch an adjustable cam during a tune. Cam degreeing must be done on the engine stand.
#6
Hey, it sounds like you have a logical and realist head on your shoulders, always a plus in the tuning world! Most people come in here with dreams they're likely to not accomplish because they don't have deep enough pockets or a big enough brain.
Yes you do have an EX, if you have a sunroof, your automatically a member of the elite! (I have no sunroof, haha)
It sounds like you're the perfect candidate for a 5 speed swap, and then all your tuning dreams can become realities.
Yes, 94-97 Accords probably have the most aftermarket representation, but CB (89?-93) have a huge following and I suggest you check out cbtuner?? or cb7tuner.com
The F22A is a good engine and it can be taken just as far any F22B or F23A, so don't be discouraged.
As long as you don't talk yourself up on here and do a little research before you ask questions, we'll all be happy to answer your questions as best as we can.
- Brandon
Yes you do have an EX, if you have a sunroof, your automatically a member of the elite! (I have no sunroof, haha)
It sounds like you're the perfect candidate for a 5 speed swap, and then all your tuning dreams can become realities.
Yes, 94-97 Accords probably have the most aftermarket representation, but CB (89?-93) have a huge following and I suggest you check out cbtuner?? or cb7tuner.com
The F22A is a good engine and it can be taken just as far any F22B or F23A, so don't be discouraged.
As long as you don't talk yourself up on here and do a little research before you ask questions, we'll all be happy to answer your questions as best as we can.
- Brandon
#7
Few more points to consider - grinding vs replacing the camshaft: Grinding: the shape of the lobe is altered and can cause more spring wear, and you need to make sure the rockers can be adjusted to take up the extra play (caused by grinding). Replacing: the lobe will be longer to give you more lift, however the cams come from mild to wild and the more you go wild you need to check clearances at full open, and other mods may be required. Also you loose the nice idle. So the best bet is a mild cam that will give you more power in mid-upper range than stock and keep it civilized at the same time. Rule of thumb is about 5-10hp extra depending on your engine condition. If you decide to replace it yourself, careful with removing and installing since they do break - need to follow service manual instructions, or other procedures. Lots of info on the internet.
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