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to grind or not to grind (my cam)

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  #1  
Old 04-01-2009, 12:51 PM
fly68
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Default to grind or not to grind (my cam)

I have a 92 accord coup. I need to replace the timing belt here shortly and I'm wondering if I should go ahead and have the cam reground for more mid range power and a beafier sounding idle. It's only about $100 if you supply your own cam. I know it's not going to give me fifty more horses- probably only five or ten but horse power is horse power right? Unfortunately my ride is an automatic, which, I've been told can't take a whole lot of extra power, but if I just goose it once in a while, with all the mods I want, I don't see why I can't have an automatic input appreciated.
Live long and drive hard,
fly68
 

Last edited by fly68; 04-01-2009 at 12:55 PM. Reason: spelling
  #2  
Old 04-01-2009, 04:44 PM
19Accord97
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You can probably just get an aftermarket cam for about the same price.
 
  #3  
Old 04-01-2009, 06:05 PM
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Okay... let's do this right, shall we?

1) You can't just take the cam out, grind it and throw it back in. Who calculated the degrees of duration and lift? What shop is doing a $100 grind job?

2) Any change in valve timing is going to require an adjustable cam gear and a tuning platform to compensate cam and ignition timing to actually MAKE power on a new cam. Your idle will likely be gone, or higher than you want it to be. Sitting at the light idling at 1500 rpm may get you some looks.

3) The tuner at a local shop here will not even touch an adjustable cam during a tune. Cam degreeing must be done on the engine stand.
 
  #4  
Old 04-01-2009, 06:10 PM
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Bisimoto cams are drop in with the stock ECU.
 
  #5  
Old 04-02-2009, 10:26 PM
fly68
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Default thanks for cam info

Originally Posted by finch13
Okay... let's do this right, shall we?

1) You can't just take the cam out, grind it and throw it back in. Who calculated the degrees of duration and lift? What shop is doing a $100 grind job?

2) Any change in valve timing is going to require an adjustable cam gear and a tuning platform to compensate cam and ignition timing to actually MAKE power on a new cam. Your idle will likely be gone, or higher than you want it to be. Sitting at the light idling at 1500 rpm may get you some looks.

3) The tuner at a local shop here will not even touch an adjustable cam during a tune. Cam degreeing must be done on the engine stand.
thanks for the info, I'm new to the Honda tuner clan, and as much as I hate to admit it, I don't know ####, but I need to get off of two wheels and into four before I end up a paraplegic or worse. It seems there is just as much BS in the tuner world as there is on the web itself. This is what I have- a 92 accord coup. I don't know what model because that part of the emblem was missing when I got it, but it has electric side view mirrors, a sunroof, tinted windows, solid aluminum 16" wheels, and a stock spoiler- so I'm guessing EX. I should know, I've been driving hondas and acuras for years. The crappy aspects of my car are that 1 it's an automatic, and 2 it has the f22a engine. From my on line shopping, if I would have bought a 93 or later I would have a lot more performance options, but I feel that I'm still quite limited. I have cold air intake and a 2.5 inch cat-back (for the turbo I was going to get but later found out it can't be put on an automatic. Oh well, I have a vicious sounding resonator and a great looking, nicely tucked, stainless steal muffler. I really don't know what to do- be a poser and just make my ride look and sound fast (probably the safest option) or dump some serious cash (from the sounds of it) into my ride- because it has to be done right or heads will roll. I could really use some straight up advice. Thanks in advance. fly.
 
  #6  
Old 04-03-2009, 12:29 AM
finch13's Avatar
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Hey, it sounds like you have a logical and realist head on your shoulders, always a plus in the tuning world! Most people come in here with dreams they're likely to not accomplish because they don't have deep enough pockets or a big enough brain.

Yes you do have an EX, if you have a sunroof, your automatically a member of the elite! (I have no sunroof, haha)

It sounds like you're the perfect candidate for a 5 speed swap, and then all your tuning dreams can become realities.

Yes, 94-97 Accords probably have the most aftermarket representation, but CB (89?-93) have a huge following and I suggest you check out cbtuner?? or cb7tuner.com

The F22A is a good engine and it can be taken just as far any F22B or F23A, so don't be discouraged.

As long as you don't talk yourself up on here and do a little research before you ask questions, we'll all be happy to answer your questions as best as we can.

- Brandon
 
  #7  
Old 04-06-2009, 06:52 PM
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Few more points to consider - grinding vs replacing the camshaft: Grinding: the shape of the lobe is altered and can cause more spring wear, and you need to make sure the rockers can be adjusted to take up the extra play (caused by grinding). Replacing: the lobe will be longer to give you more lift, however the cams come from mild to wild and the more you go wild you need to check clearances at full open, and other mods may be required. Also you loose the nice idle. So the best bet is a mild cam that will give you more power in mid-upper range than stock and keep it civilized at the same time. Rule of thumb is about 5-10hp extra depending on your engine condition. If you decide to replace it yourself, careful with removing and installing since they do break - need to follow service manual instructions, or other procedures. Lots of info on the internet.
 
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