can anyone help me?

 

Jim: Thanks for the clarification.

94: Is it possible that the gain that you fealt was the differance between the old, maybe fouled plugs vs. new rather than NGK vs. Bosch?

 

yeah i would say that, im gonna get the NGK's here soon, but can u help me with the idling probs?

 

when you bled the system was the car up to normal operating temp?

Those bosch plugs aren't going to do you any favors when trying to diagnose an idle issue... if they aren't firing well it just going to add hedache, the plugs are like a $1.50 each...

 

yeah true but the car only does it at a certain temp, its when the guage gets up just above the first line then ill put it in gear, leave it for a sec. then put it back in park and it wont do it

 

so to test the iacv does it matter if the car is warm or not, because the car is warm and i pulled off my cai and plugged the bottom hole in the throttle body and it didnt die then pulled off the 2p connector off the iacv and the bottom hole still had suction

P.S. can anyone tell me where the fitv is located on the 94 accord?

 

I already told you where it was in post #5. The FITV is underneath the throttle body, #14 in that picture.

I don't remember which hole in the TB goes to which device. Upper hole to IACV & lower hole to FITV??? In that case, it's your FITV that isn't closing. The FITV should close up by the time the engine is hot.

 

yeah that makes sense. so is it my fitv thats bad? what do u suggest?

 

the fitv should be open when cold and shut when hot what about the iacv?

 

Yes, the FITV should be open when cold & it should close up progressively as the engine gets up to proper temperature.

The IACV should always be open to some degree. It rarely closes all the way.

You need to verify which port goes to which valve.

Your throttle plate should close all the way. The throttle cable should not hold the throttle open at all. Sometimes a misguided 'mechanic' will use the cable to increase the idle speed. The cable should go slack. The mechanical stop at the throttle cable drum shouldbarely hold the throttle open just enough so it doesn't wedge stuck.

There's a needle-valve for adjusting idle speed, it's above the bore of the throttle body. Here's how to adjust that.

Get the engine completely warmed up. Turn EVERYTHING off so there's no electrical loads. Unplug the IACV.

Adjust the idle to 500 rpm. That's your "BASE" idle speed. Find a repair manual for your year to verify 500, but it IS substantially lower than the normal operating idle.

Shut off the car, reset your ECU, & let it cool down.

Start the car WITHOUT TOUCHING the GAS PEDAL. Let it idle until it's warmed up completely, without touching the gas pedal the whole time. This allows the ECU to re-learn the behavior of the IACV & idle system.