f23 = 150hp and the h22 = 200hp

i think id appreciate the h22 than my f23.

plus theres a lot more mods and things u can do with a h motor...

and if you really want to over do it... get a bottle lol

 

Let's break it down....

F23 = 152 lb/ft TQ (crank/flywheel)
H22= 145 lb/ft TQ

F23 = 150 hp (crank/flywheel)
H22 = 190/200 hp

F23 = 86mm bore (iron sleeves)
H22= 87mm bore (FRM sleeves)

F23 = SOHC (est 6800-7200rpm redline)
H22 = DOHC (est 7800-8200rpm redline)


Make your own call.

 

Depends on the pressure that you are talkin about. Normal cylinder pressure, I agree. Turbo boost pressure, no good. Coated FRM is only good for high rpm NA motors. Ductile iron is the best for boost. The F-series sleves are somewhere in between, but they are held back by the 4 in 1 casting they use.

 

It's not like the sleeves are just going to blow out from 8-10psi of pressure. Other things will go long before the sleeves do.

 

Yeah, thats true, but Ive heard about the FRM sleeves getting brittle and cracking from lots of stress cycles caused by the additional pressure of a turbo ...... these cases most likely had over 10 psi though.

 

ok are those for the manual or the auto tranny??...because i need the auto specs if so then i guess thats about right....now i jus need the specs for WHP or does that vary from car to car because i know not everyone has the same tires...but as far as stock...what is the WHP for the f23

 

The engines make the same hp wether it is automatic or manual. Tires have nothing to do with how much whp you make. The usual way of finding whp is to subtract 15% approximate. You usually lose a little bit more to the wheels through a slushbox than a manual.

 

QUOTED FROM [[mgags7]] http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=36625414

Now:
The f23 crank is a great plus because of the 97mm stroke
The narrow f23 rods are a minus, becuase, well, they're narrow.
The f23 conveniently has an iron block. Which is nice because FRM is FTL bigtime when it comes to building (without sleeves).
Unless you're doing some major custom stuff, you won't get the same bang for the buck out of an f23 head for the same $$. Truely, the f23 head is set up a bit better, the valve angles and such are more optimal than the h22, and there is less weight due to no vtec in the valvetrain (model dependent) that is why bisimoto runs F heads and makes over 300whp all day.

However, the h22 head can be ported to flow huge amounts, and there are already good aftermarket headers out there for the h22, as well as a few intake manifold options, the f23 head does not have that.

The point of the matter is, unless you're doing a lot of custom stuff, go with an h22 head and some f23 bottom end equipment, grab a set of pistons to fit it all together right, and wha-la, a torquey, and more rev-happy than you guys are making it out to be engine.

As far as you turbo guys go, I think the handicapped parking is over there, don't forget your crutches when you get out of the car

-Lx master....
ok so is that true?...reading alot of this thread and what it seems is that its an arguable feat....but in here it says to use the H22 head and f23 bottom end equip.....think thats a good idea?? or how will that work out?

 

Its been done already, its feasible. If you want to do it, do it.

 

ok meaning what??...like...are they saying use just the top portion of the h22 and leave the rest f23??...or like how exactly is this done?...and this is better than the h22 swap???....and as far as him saying "bisimoto runs F heads and makes over 300whp all day."...thats with what mods?? or do you know?