I have a 97 Accord SE with the non-vtec motor. I just bought it for very cheap knowing it had issues but thought worst case senario I would have to replace the tranny. Just so you have the back story. It was slighly flooded a couple months ago (just the floor boards had a couple inches of water) and the previous owner had thrown lots of money at it. Replaced the ECU, new water pump, wires, timing belt, plugs etc. He claims that it ran great for a couple of weeks but then the speedometer went crazy and the car died. He had the tranny fluid changed out with Honda fluid too. His mechanic replaced two sensors. He said the speed sensor and something else that he can't remember.

I just bought the car a couple of days ago and start diagnosing. First thing I decide to do is replace the ECU to rule that out. I have not had any codes this entire time, not even the flashing "D" light for tranny codes. I pulled the lockup solenoid and shift control solenoid. I test them and all four work and make a loud clicking sound and I cleaned them out. While one of them was out I started the car to make sure fluid would pump out so the pump works too. I drained and filled with Honda fluid as well. Car will sometimes go into reverse but only at a speed as if I were idling, so even if I hit the gas the car does not go any fater in reverse. Once I put it into drive nothing happens. Usually it will only allow this slight reverse only after just starting the car. There is a slight whinning sound from the transmission too.

What other test can I perform? Could it that the shift cable is faulty but that wouldn't explain the complete lack of power when the vehicle does actually make it into gear. Thanks for the help.

Car has 230,000 miles.

 

Absence of any trans codes suggests an internal hydraulic fault is causing the problems. Water may have entered trans and when run w/ water caused hydraulic faults that can't be reversed.

Above is just a guess. I've never had a flooded trans. Water as high as described could enter the trans through vent or trans fluid fill/level check port.

Suspect a new or used trans will be necessary.

good luck

 

Thanks, can you think of any tests to confirm transmission failure? Guess I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow.

 

Driving tests are good as anything. Only thing I could suggest is complete fluid replacement. See following link for description of procedure for Honda Acord.


This would insure any water contaminated fluid is displaced. I would not be optimistic this will fix.

good luck

 

Definitely going to the junkyard, from what I gather, any 90-02 auto accord tranny will work. I will of course aim for a newer model with less miles. Any tips for pulling a junkyard tranny without being able to use a jack? All of the cars are propped up on rim stands.

 

I don't believe the transmissions are interchangeable across that many years. Check car-part.com for a donor vehicle to your model/trim. They will cross reference which year vehicles are compatible donors. Don't make your trans replacement difficult by attempting a difficult installation.

good luck

 

A few things, TX is correct - the 98-02 are more computer driven than the older ones. For example they do not have the throttle control cable controling shift points. Plus - they are also known for being a bit weak - read of many, mnay failures on this gen.

Try for a trans from the 5th gen (94-97). First since it is the same, no worries with install. Plus - VERY solid.

 

Well I picked up another Junkyard tranny from a 97 with only 120,000 miles. The fluid looked good too. I get home and it matches my old tranny perfectly. I try to install and everything goes together except the torque converter is pressing is touching the bolts for the rear mail seal. There is no gap thus making it impossible to turn the crank. I have removed the tranny twice now trying to ensure that the TC is seated properly and it is. What is going on?

I just read the shop manual and I did everything the same except I did not loosen the front engine mount, obviously that was not necessary because I was easily able to remove two transmissions without touching the front mount. I would say the TC sticks out only about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the bell housing. I can't even tighten the tranny mounting bolts all the way because it smashes the TC.

Please help.

 

Here are pictures regarding my last post

You can see the TC pushing the flexplate to the point where it is touching the rear main seal bolt head and pretty much resting on the oil pan too!



Here is a picture from the front side (near the front bumper) you can notice that the tranny to block mounting bolt cannot even tighten all the way



I tried to get a better pic of how much the TC protrudes from the bellhousing but it was getting dask and you can get a goo idea from the other pics too.



Thanks for the help. Can not loosening the front engine mount cause these issues? I can swear that I have many times seated the TC and reseated it to make sure I am not screwing up. I even have been messing around with my old tranny and TC to see if I can seat that TC deeper and it is the same.

 

Is it possible that TC/drive plate rotation alignment is incorrect? There might be only one position that aligns and allows the two parts to mate correctly. There appear to be some notches in the drive plate that may align w/ notches in the TC. However shop manual doesn't mention anything about rotation alignment, which would be a huge omission, if required.

Another possibility is starter somehow preventing correct engagement of TC to engine. Is it installed? Manual says to install starter on TC housing and install two dowel pins for alignment. Is it possible that starter is holding TC out of position?

Was drive plate removed for any reason?

good luck