10,000 miles overdue? It should be fine but you are playing a game where if you lose, you lose big time. I would get it changed asap unless you can diagnose the sound and realize the motor is done.

 

Yeah I hear ya... And you guessed it as to why I haven't changed the thing... Its like if I change the belt then the engine blows, I'll flip! (then I wonder how much life the clutch has left in it...) it may very well be the original clutch! Grabs and drives fine for now, but you never know when it could be approaching its last days...

 

anybody happen to have any additional comments on this? I PM'd the guy who started the thread but didn't get an answer.

I'm just afraid to spend the $600 dollars if my car still makes the noise after doing it... Just worries me that the engine could be "on the outs"...

 

get another opinion before do anything. i dont trust the first thing an auto tech says.

 

I definitely hear that...

 

FYI - just did my own valve adjustment on it (which was a pain in the a**) - and it didnt change the noise I'm talkin about...

I've put 20k on it now with the noise... But it still sound pretty darn bad... I just don't know....

Might just say "f-it" and drive it til either my clutch goes or the t-belt breaks! (the way i figure, its better to just take my chances on not changing the belt if the engine is bad...) cause then i'd spend money on the belt... then the clutch could go, and i'd spend money on that.... AND the engine could give way at some point too after spendign all that money on this things...

the way i figure it, I'll prally just wait until the clutch and/or t-belt goes and then just swap a new (or used) motor in it and get it all done in one "pop" which would save a boatload of money in the end...?

 

Bump... Figured its worth a try that someone else may have been through this recently before I get the t-belt done in like a month or so... Don't wanna waste the $...

 

Just got the t-belt, tensioners, seals, valve adjustment and the whole deal... No change in the noise... SO F-ING PISSED

 

I know this is a pain it the @$$ but have you dropped the oil pan to inspect the crank or to see if you have any metal shavings sitting in the bottom of your pan?? Then you might have a spun rod if so. thats just a suggestion into something to look @.

 

that is a quality suggestion... but you hit the nail on the head... that is a pain in the ^%$... but i spend so much time talkin about it, i shoudl do it...

i guess maybe i'll check out the haynes -- anyone know how long i should expect that to take? i think i remember that you need to remove a piece of support first on the 6th gen accords then drop the pan, then remove the bolts on the bottom of the bearings? something like that...

thats not a bad idea tho