Hello out there.

My name is Jon and i am new to working on Honda's. Now for my delima. I broke my timeing belt going down the high way........... You guessed it, bent valves. so I popped the head off and took it to a shop to be rebuilt. i put it back on torqued the head to spec adjusted valves to spec ect... When i went to start it for the first time it was really hard and has been from then on. The car runs great at idle and up to 3500 RPM. Once i reach 3500 the motor cops out and pulses and no power. When i baught the car someone had already chewed up everything they could, so i wouldent be surprised if something is missing. I havent ran codes yet, Were should i start looking????? Im used to working on a 5.9l cummins One cyl is as big as my motor. Oh oops this is on a 1996 honda accord 4 cyl vtec. I know nothing about the (VTEC).

Any help would be Awesome.
Jon

 

Suggest you download the 94-97 Accord Manual from Online Manuals links in DIY forum. This will provide details of your system and see what's missing.

I would start w/ basics; check for codes from ECM.

Hard starting may be related to FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve). Check that it is opening w/ cold engine and allowing additional starting air.

Clean throttle plate and bore. Clean IACV movement. Make sure you have a clean intake air filter and no air leaks in intake duct. Check the PCV valve and hose is hooked up and functioning correctly.

Check for masssive intake air leaks (brake booster line, PCV, intake manifold leak, etc).

good luck

 

Double check your cam timing.

 

Thank you guys for your input. i went out and looked and everything seems to be but back together right (seems). Though i just had knee surgery so i cant get out there and tear things apart agian for alittle while. I will take notes, and when i'm able i will get to work. Thank you agian

Jon

 

It could also be caused by your car being in 'limp mode' due to timing or internal issues, which could also cause VTEC to not engage properly. It could be a combination of things. If you are not throwing any codes though, that is strange. How is your oil level? Is your electrical (distributor) timing synced with your mechanical timing?

 

ok went out and checked codes. came up with crank position sensor. my question is this. I just replaced it less then a year ago, and when the sensor went out my car wouldn't even idle correctly. right now it will start and idle great and run ok untill it reaches 3500 rpm then it goes baserk. Is it the sensor or maybe something else in the circuit?

Jon

 

Share w/ us the actual code, Pnnnn.

Most sensor faults can be wiring, connector, sensor, or ECU, so it's necessary to confirm fault location, particularly since this fault appeared earlier and has returned.

I had to replace my 94EX ECU for a persistent CYP sensor (in distributor) obd1 code (9). I confirmed ECU fault by measuring sensor resistance at the ECU connector (good). New ECU fixed the problem.

Apparently w/ 15-20 years of age, heat, load cycles some of the solder jts and/or components begin to fail.

good luck

 

I believe the code was 235 (OBE II) and the book said that it was the crank position senser circuit?? I gave the code reader back to my friend.
so i cant be positive.

 

P0335 is crankshaft position sensor circuit low input fault. I would suggest reconfirming code.

You can also extract the OBD1 code w/o a scanner by shorting the service check connector under the glove box (blue 2-wire connector), turn keyswitch to On, and observe Check Engine Light flashes. Code is Long Flash equals 10 and short flash equals 1, so your likely obd1 code 4 should be f-f-f-f w/ short (< 1 sec) pauses between flashes. Code is repeated w/ a long pause 2-3 secs between repeats.

Low means the ECU is seeing voltage lower than expected. This likely means an open circuit somewhere.

As I said, it can be wiring, connector, sensor, or ECU. Only way to know for sure is to check sensor resistance at various points. If resistance is good at sensor connector, procede to ECU connector. You will need a shop manual to know which connector and which wires to check. If resistance is good at the ECU connector, then purchase a used ECU (< $50 ebay or car-part.com). This should resolve the problem.

good luck