That’s what my h22 intake mani looked like when I 1st started it. The only pic I have to show you. But you take a hack saw and cut out the holes then take a dermal or the air type dermal (don’t remember what it’s called) with a bore bit and clean up. I personally deleted my butterflies and got shorter bolts and slammed her 2geather. if you search honda-tech.com you will find some stuff on how to port a h22/h23 intake manifold.

 

ok i've looked around and got a better idea. i know i have a 2.2L engine, not a h22 or is it the same thing?... what do u mean by deleting the butterflies? im sorry if im a bit slow in this and appreciate the feedback your giving.

 

OK, just for the sake of terminology...

Your engine size is 2.2 liters (2.2L).

The engine TYPE can be F22 (2.2 liter SOHC Accord engine) or H22 (2.2 liter DOHC Prelude engine).

The intake manifold he's talking about has 2 different-length runners for each cylinder. And butterfly valves (like little throttles) to close off the short runners. Here's a picture of that type of manifold. The butterfly assembly is #13.


He's suggesting you remove that #13 assembly, and remove the material between the short & long runners. That way the intake manifold is open and unobstructed as much as possible. That's better for high RPM but maybe suffers in low-RPM drivability.

 

that's for the pic Jim!
I deleted number 13 and yes you will lose a little bit of low end but you gain in the high end. I have to break apart my h22 intake manifold and I will show you what I did when I get around to doin it. Should be soon in the next few weeks after I order my gasket kit for the whole head. I was originally using homemade gaskets ( from gasket maker) on some things but I found a killer deal on a whole gasket kit for the whole head so I’m gonna crack her back open and do it the right way.

 

Before cutting it up, consider your goals. Having the short runners closed at lower RPM will give you more torque/power AT THOSE LOWER RPM. If it were me, & a daily driver, I'd consider the trade-off. If I lived at the redline, & made my living shaving 1/10 second from lap times, I'd cut em out.
(your car, your choice)

 

wait i thought it gave more power at the higher RPMs? Ya ur right, i think im still gonna do it though i understand why i wouldnt want to.

Thats sweet that u found a deal man, ya def send some pics my way if u can. That will probably be the next project i undertake. First i gotta fix the head gasket

 

well if you where to do a head swap I wouldn’t dump money into fixing your head gasket on the f22 head. I would search around for the h23 head and get the h23 head gasket and start your build...unless you need the car running be4 you can find the head and stuff

 

The intake manifold resonates with the RPM of the engine. Based on the length of the intake runners, there's ONE RPM where that resonation works well. So one way would be for the intake manifold runners to be continuously variable length. Kinda like trombone slides that get longer & shorter along with engine RPM. Add some heat, age, & corrosion, and that stuff would quit working before too long.

So most cars make do with one single length intake runners. If they're long, they reinforce the induction at low RPM. If they're short they help at high RPM. Some cars have 2 runners that open & close - which is what we're talking about.

 

Oh right...well if I got a h23 head why would I have to get it's head gasket? Wouldn't it have one already in it working?

Thanks Jim!

 

yes h23 has a diff. headgasket that a f22. search for g22 swaps. tells you what you need to do to have a h series head on a f series block.