I did edit this post, got in trouble Putting the belts back on. Look my last response down below ...

Hi, I did a search and I was reading the forum and I found no answer to my question, I apologize if it is already out there, I just couldn’t find.
I am doing a timing belt job,
I have replace the Main crank seal and the Balance shaft seal (the little gear, the shaft has a little hole)
Here is where I got stuck.
I removed the gear Case for the shat, the one you need to insert a bolt on the back of the block to keep it from spinning.
I was wondering if I have to remove the gear itself to replace any seals behind it or just do the rubber gasket on the back?
I could not find the gasket, I was wondering if I can reuse the same one , just add some RTV form a gasket .
Please see my picture if you have any doubts what I am asking.
Thank you.
1993 Accord sedan 10th Aniversary edition, Auto

http://webpages.charter.net/mikoyangurevich/shaft.bmp

 

There's only anO-ring betwen the gear case and the engine. That O-ring is less than $6 from Honda, so replace it rather than fabricating anything.

If the shaft seal is leaking oil, unless you can find a machine shop who'll charge you less than a new one to re-build it, you'll have to buy a new one. They're not cheap.

 

Thanks for the reply.
I usual I like to share Pics and also what happened after I get the tip or advise from you experts.
Here are some pics of my engine after I Opened it up. the car I bouthg has 137K miles and the water pump says Honda on it, I think it is the original one , never replaced.


As you can see above, my main crank shaft oil seal was about to start leaking.



No need to make any coments on this water Pump.



Thanks for responding to my cry for help when I needed.

 

nice looking water pump! I'm glad you got that thing out of there before real issues came up....

 

Now I hit a snag [:@]
I am not able to put tension on the new belts. The tensioners a not set well.
Here is my problem, let's see if I can explain it well :

* A When I tigh up this bolt , this lever lifs and does not match the off set of the tensioner to lock it in place.

* B I am not sure if this bolt is supposed to be tight all the way down to lock the tiing belt tensioner or, is it supposed to allow it to swing back and forth ?

* C My Gear span around the bolt fell off. How should I lign it back up ? by following the marks and notches in it , or should I do the bolt thing again ?

Please help !

 

Easy does it. Everything's going to turn out just fine.

Tightening "A" should not lock the balance belt tensioner into position. That shaftwith the nut at the end are only an axle for balance belt tensioner "lever arm" to pivot on.

"B" should not be tight enough to restrictfree motion ofthe timing belt tensioner arm.

Makeabsolutely sure that the springs are correctly attached to both the tensioners and the engine - exactly as they were when you removed the lower cover.

After you do the above, for the moment leave the adjusting nut looselythreaded onand try to move the balance-belt tensioner up and down. You'll instantly notice that there is not really that much "play" available in the movement, andthat there is a "sweet spot" where both tensioners, because of the somewhat opposing forces of their respective belts, tend to want to reside after you release your grip.

Of course Honda designed this arrangement precisely. And it is their procedure for doing the final belt tensioning that must now be followed in order to get things absolutely right. (In this case, "now" means after everything is put back together.)

Check out this thread for how to do the final tension adjustment:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_4..._1/key_/tm.htm

BTW, do not forget to install that flat metal washer on the adjusting-nut's shaft (it sits up against the metal central piece of the balance belt tensioner) BEFORE installing the lower cover.


I forgot to answer your question "C". I'm not exactly sure what you'reasking, but for time's sake I'll giveansweringit a shot anyway. Luckily, the rear balance shaft has only one hole in it, so, in order to get whatever you're using to lock it into position into that hole,the shaftmust be in the correct radial position in orderto do that.

As far as I can tell, the position of the gear-drive mechanism off the caris really irrelevant. After the gear mechanism has been removed, the shaft locking pin/rod can be removed and that shaft can be spun like a top. Once the shaft is then rotated so that the pin can be re-inserted, the shaft must then be in exactly the same position as it was when the locking pin was removed.

It's the same with the gear mechanism itself. As long as the shaft is in it's proper radial position when the gear mechanism is re-installed, I cannot see how it makes any difference which gear tooth in the assembly lines up with which tooth on thepulley at the end of the balance shaft. As long as the balance shaft is in the correct radial position after the gear assembly is re-installed, and remains locked into that position as the balance belt is being installed, that's all that really matters.

 

Thanks , I will try this afternoon.
One more thing, How do I align the Balance shaft gear ? The bolt locking it fell off.
Shoul I use the marks on it to align it ? or just insert the bolt back and spin it until it goes thru ?

 

I just edited the end of my post above to include the answer to your latest query. The quick answer is that if you re-insert the pin, you're good to go. Use the largest-size pin that will push fully into the hole in the shaft. The less "sloppy" the fit, the better. If you have a good drill-bit set, use the "drill end" (not the cutting end) of the largest diameter drill that you can to do the job.

Good luck, and please let us know how it goes.

 

Basically, you are saying if I reinsert the Pin to line it up , it is good to put the belt back on.

 

Yes.

Now get to work and let us know what happens.