***1996 Accord - intermittent no start saga ***
#13
Battery should be connected. The main relay should be plugged in. You will use something like a t-pin to push into the back of the connector. Search youtube for backprobe to see what I'm talking about.
Make absolutely sure you have your volt meter set to ohms (or continuity) and NOT amps (capitol letter A is the symbol). Also make sure your red volt meter lead is plugged into the meter where it says v and ohms (horseshoe) and NOT amps (something like 10A max for 30 seconds).
Make absolutely sure you have your volt meter set to ohms (or continuity) and NOT amps (capitol letter A is the symbol). Also make sure your red volt meter lead is plugged into the meter where it says v and ohms (horseshoe) and NOT amps (something like 10A max for 30 seconds).
#14
Perfect, thank you - helps a lot!!!
I tested and never got continuity in key II or start positions. After this test I went straight to the PCM and checked pin 16 but it looks good, no corrosion or cracks.
Do you think it could be a non-visible issue with the PCM?
Is there another test that could be done to confirm the PCM?
Could there be another component the PCM is waiting for prior to sending power to the green/black wire in the relay? Maybe a component is not grounded?
One other thing I should mention, I tested the new switch that I put in with the continuity setting and it is working perfectly. I did the check because previously jiggling the key seemed to help get the fuel pump to prime.
I tested and never got continuity in key II or start positions. After this test I went straight to the PCM and checked pin 16 but it looks good, no corrosion or cracks.
Do you think it could be a non-visible issue with the PCM?
Is there another test that could be done to confirm the PCM?
Could there be another component the PCM is waiting for prior to sending power to the green/black wire in the relay? Maybe a component is not grounded?
One other thing I should mention, I tested the new switch that I put in with the continuity setting and it is working perfectly. I did the check because previously jiggling the key seemed to help get the fuel pump to prime.
#15
Another test you can try is to set the meter to voltage and set up the meter like you did before. You should have 12V to the blue wire (next to the grn/blk wire in your second picture) when the key is turned to the start position.
I'm leaning towards something like a bad solder joint on the PCM along Pin A16's path. You may need a magnifying glass to see it, or an app on a smart phone to magnify. It could also be an issue with a component soldered to the circuit board.
The nice thing with a 96, is you should be able to find a cheap PCM from a u-pull-it type junkyard. The PCM has to be from a 96 or 97. Is your car an automatic? Is it a LX, DX, or EX?
I'm leaning towards something like a bad solder joint on the PCM along Pin A16's path. You may need a magnifying glass to see it, or an app on a smart phone to magnify. It could also be an issue with a component soldered to the circuit board.
The nice thing with a 96, is you should be able to find a cheap PCM from a u-pull-it type junkyard. The PCM has to be from a 96 or 97. Is your car an automatic? Is it a LX, DX, or EX?
#18
You should get a PCM from only a 96/97 accord automatic EX.
If you go to hondapartsnow.com, you can look up the OEM part numbers. Sometimes they will have a revised part and will change the last number, like L52. Just check that site to be sure.
If you go to hondapartsnow.com, you can look up the OEM part numbers. Sometimes they will have a revised part and will change the last number, like L52. Just check that site to be sure.
#19
I tested the blue wire and the it was jumping all over the place--not giving me a solid 12v reading at all!
I also decided to test the white/green wire which I believe should be constant 12v power from the battery(correct?)... and it did not give me a solid 12v reading either. I also tried the continuity test on the white/green wire and it did NOT have continuity to ground....
Could this be my issue.....no constant power to the relay? If so, where does the white/green wire come from prior to the relay?
Is this diagram correct for the 96 accord? How the Main Relay works
Could I tap another constant power wire and connect it to the white/green? would this be safe?
I also decided to test the white/green wire which I believe should be constant 12v power from the battery(correct?)... and it did not give me a solid 12v reading either. I also tried the continuity test on the white/green wire and it did NOT have continuity to ground....
Could this be my issue.....no constant power to the relay? If so, where does the white/green wire come from prior to the relay?
Is this diagram correct for the 96 accord? How the Main Relay works
Could I tap another constant power wire and connect it to the white/green? would this be safe?
#20
I am not sure if my multimeter is working correctly or if I an using it correctly to measure voltage. I just tested the meter on the battery red lead to red post and black lead to black post and assumed I would get 12v... I did not, it measurement was bouncing around just like when I tested the blue and white/green wires so I assume something is not correct with the multimeter? The car battery is brand new. Attached is a photo of how I have the multimeter setup with black to ground and red to the test wire.
When I did the test with a 12v test light... I got constant power(the light was on) when connected to white/green and power on the blue wire when the car was trying to start.
When I did the test with a 12v test light... I got constant power(the light was on) when connected to white/green and power on the blue wire when the car was trying to start.