[Car Amateur] Honda Accord EX 99..Check Engine light Came ON
#1
[Car Amateur] Honda Accord EX 99..Check Engine light Came ON
I bought a 1999 Honda Accord one month back and everything is working fine. But suddenly while returning from office, as i started the car, the check engine yellow light came on and refused to go away like other lights.
I have no idea why it came on and why it does not go. I am a new driver and had never driven car before this one. So i am not knowledgeable about all this things.
What may be the reason ?
Anything to do with outside temperature ? The temperatures here in Dallas have dropped from the usual 24 degree Celsius to less than 12 degrees at night.
Please help as to what should be my plan of action ahead.
I have no idea why it came on and why it does not go. I am a new driver and had never driven car before this one. So i am not knowledgeable about all this things.
What may be the reason ?
Anything to do with outside temperature ? The temperatures here in Dallas have dropped from the usual 24 degree Celsius to less than 12 degrees at night.
Please help as to what should be my plan of action ahead.
#2
Since you had a check engine light, go get the car read for trouble code(s) and post them on this site for more info.
Places like Autozone and Aamco should read the code(s) for no charge. Get the actual number codes, not just their description or opinion. Don't pay for a diagnostic when getting the code read at Aamco.
"http://www.aamco.com/Check_Engine_light_on-FREE_Check.asp"
Places like Autozone and Aamco should read the code(s) for no charge. Get the actual number codes, not just their description or opinion. Don't pay for a diagnostic when getting the code read at Aamco.
"http://www.aamco.com/Check_Engine_light_on-FREE_Check.asp"
#4
So i went to aamco today morning and they told they found two codes
P1456
P1738
He recommended the EVAP Test, trans pressure test for 2nd clutch application, electrical or mechanical
This is what was written in the receipt he gave me.
Please suggest what i should be doing now ?
P1456
P1738
He recommended the EVAP Test, trans pressure test for 2nd clutch application, electrical or mechanical
This is what was written in the receipt he gave me.
Please suggest what i should be doing now ?
#6
P1456 is usually due to the gas cap, that code may go away on its own.
Copy and paste without quotation marks.
"http://www.justanswer.com/honda/09ujd-code-p1456-honda-accord.html"
P1738 may be 2nd clutch pressure switch, which is easy to replace if it is. Check that the connector is tight and wiring looks okay. Then if the trouble codes were not already erased by Aamco, disconnect the battery for a little bit and reconnect. You will probably need your radio security code after that though. If the trouble code comes back, you might consider replacing the switch.
"http://www.justanswer.com/car/10abl-1998-honda-accord-code-p1738.html"
Is your car a 4 cylinder or 6? I will look up the part number.
Copy and paste without quotation marks.
"http://www.justanswer.com/honda/09ujd-code-p1456-honda-accord.html"
P1738 may be 2nd clutch pressure switch, which is easy to replace if it is. Check that the connector is tight and wiring looks okay. Then if the trouble codes were not already erased by Aamco, disconnect the battery for a little bit and reconnect. You will probably need your radio security code after that though. If the trouble code comes back, you might consider replacing the switch.
"http://www.justanswer.com/car/10abl-1998-honda-accord-code-p1738.html"
Is your car a 4 cylinder or 6? I will look up the part number.
#7
^^Hey thanks for the reply, but you see for me DIY is something i cannot. So i will need to head back to some repair shop to do it.
For the EVAP test (assuming it does not go by the gas cap) he quotes $149 labor + parts
For the P1738 he told that first he will check for electrical stuff which costs like $400+ and if it is mechanical it will need transmission rebuilt and will cost $1500+
I want to ensure that these people don't take me for a ride for lack of my knowledge.
Also i will check the gas cap and plug it in correctly but even after doing so how do i ensure that the p1456 is gone myself without going back ?
Btw my car is 4 cylinder.
For the EVAP test (assuming it does not go by the gas cap) he quotes $149 labor + parts
For the P1738 he told that first he will check for electrical stuff which costs like $400+ and if it is mechanical it will need transmission rebuilt and will cost $1500+
I want to ensure that these people don't take me for a ride for lack of my knowledge.
Also i will check the gas cap and plug it in correctly but even after doing so how do i ensure that the p1456 is gone myself without going back ?
Btw my car is 4 cylinder.
Last edited by rak007; 10-21-2011 at 11:25 AM.
#8
Found a thread where someone replaced it with pictures for the 4 cylinder and the part number.
"http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2630258"
"https://picasaweb.google.com/insceptor/HondaAccordFix?authuser=0&feat=directlink"
Honda part number 28600-P6H-003
"http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2630258"
"https://picasaweb.google.com/insceptor/HondaAccordFix?authuser=0&feat=directlink"
Honda part number 28600-P6H-003
#9
^^Hey thanks for the reply, but you see for me DIY is something i cannot. So i will need to head back to some repair shop to do it.
For the EVAP test (assuming it does not go by the gas cap) he quotes $149 labor + parts
For the P1738 he told that first he will check for electrical stuff which costs like $400+ and if it is mechanical it will need transmission rebuilt and will cost $1500+
I want to ensure that these people don't take me for a ride for lack of my knowledge.
Also i will check the gas cap and plug it in correctly but even after doing so how do i ensure that the p1456 is gone myself without going back ?
For the EVAP test (assuming it does not go by the gas cap) he quotes $149 labor + parts
For the P1738 he told that first he will check for electrical stuff which costs like $400+ and if it is mechanical it will need transmission rebuilt and will cost $1500+
I want to ensure that these people don't take me for a ride for lack of my knowledge.
Also i will check the gas cap and plug it in correctly but even after doing so how do i ensure that the p1456 is gone myself without going back ?
Forget Aamco.
For the P1456, tighten the gas cap. You can disconnect the battery or it should go away by itself, some cars it may take several days; but, usually faster. If it comes back you might just try a new gas cap that includes a new seal.
If P1738 comes back just call around or go visit some shops to get some prices to replace that part. The actual Honda part list for $70.97; but, you can buy for less through an internet Honda dealer; there's always aftermarket too, although I would probably stick with the Honda one. Since the links show the pictures of the location, you can even point it out to them, so they know they can't just make up some mumbo jumbo and say you need a "check for electrical stuff which costs like $400+ and if it is mechanical it will need transmission rebuilt and will cost $1500+"
Usually, the problems and codes will be similar for each same make of car and years.
#10
I just came back from Oreilly and before that i did check the gas cap, and as it is written over it, i turned it so i can hear 3 clicks. But as you have suggested that it may take some time for that to go.
Btw that car battery disconnection, can i do it without any tools or should i just leave it like that and hope the code goes (get it checked back after a week at oreilly)
Btw at Oreilly too those 2 codes came up.
Also from what you are saying, i guess Aamco may be just trying to rip me off ?
Btw that car battery disconnection, can i do it without any tools or should i just leave it like that and hope the code goes (get it checked back after a week at oreilly)
Btw at Oreilly too those 2 codes came up.
Also from what you are saying, i guess Aamco may be just trying to rip me off ?