Is 0.7 amps for 90" normal behavior?
#1
Is 0.7 amps for 90" normal behavior?
2005 Accord Hybrid - 4 door sedan - 3.0 I-vtec - has alarm system
Related to possible parasitic drain / battery problem: Is it normal for this model to draw 0.7 amps for 90 minutes after shutting off the car?
I use an inductive ammeter to measure the DC current, using 8-loop wire loop to make the reading accurate. I've tested three times, and it is consistent. After 90 minutes, drops to very low current.
Thanks, Daniel
Related to possible parasitic drain / battery problem: Is it normal for this model to draw 0.7 amps for 90 minutes after shutting off the car?
I use an inductive ammeter to measure the DC current, using 8-loop wire loop to make the reading accurate. I've tested three times, and it is consistent. After 90 minutes, drops to very low current.
Thanks, Daniel
#3
Yes, the meter reads about 5.6 A (exact reading is 5.25 A) when the clamp surrounds the eight loops. Divide by eight and round off. I verified the reading at a single wire is close to 0.7 A, so I'm confident of getting an accurate reading. At close to 90 minutes, the reading drops (0.66 A -> about 0.03 A). Anybody know if the 90 minute current draw is normal behavior?
#4
I have always seen the figure of 50 mA as the max draw in engine off. 0.7A is much higher and suspect IMO.
However a hybrid may be different. Not much experience on the forum w/ hybrids.
I checked 03-06 shop manual for current drain spec but did not find anything. I found "parasitic current draw" but no spec.
good luck
However a hybrid may be different. Not much experience on the forum w/ hybrids.
I checked 03-06 shop manual for current drain spec but did not find anything. I found "parasitic current draw" but no spec.
good luck
#5
Thank you for checking the shop manual, and your expert opinion, which is probably correct that the current is suspect.
Anyone have a similar hybrid they could check? You don't need the wire loop, it just increases accuracy. I can replicate the results clamping the positive wire from the battery. The test does require a DC clamp ammeter. And you do have to wait a minute for the indoor light to go off, after turning off the engine and closing the door.
Anyone have a similar hybrid they could check? You don't need the wire loop, it just increases accuracy. I can replicate the results clamping the positive wire from the battery. The test does require a DC clamp ammeter. And you do have to wait a minute for the indoor light to go off, after turning off the engine and closing the door.
#6
The following may be a good investment:
2005 Honda Accord Hybrid Shop Service Repair Manual CD Engine Drivetrain Wiring | eBay
good luck
2005 Honda Accord Hybrid Shop Service Repair Manual CD Engine Drivetrain Wiring | eBay
good luck
#7
Your measurement of 30 milli-amps after 90 minutes has passed, sounds OK for the "engine-off" current draw (less than 50 ma according to Tex). It just seems like 90 minutes is an awful long time to wait. But that might be related to the car being a hybrid??
#9
No, my car does not have a "hands free link". But it's likely the cause is something like that. I will continue to look around. At least I have more or less verified the draw is not normal, which was the point of the post. Thanks to all. When I eventually figure it out, I'll post. I will probably buy that shop manual as suggested, I appreciate the link.
I was at one point thinking the draw wouldn't kill the battery, because only 90 minutes @ 0.7 amps, not a huge amount. To verify not a weak battery, autozone tested the relatively new battery today, said it's fine.
I think the drain kills the battery as follows. I usually run local errands, and stop at several places. Every time the car stops, the 90 minute "clock" starts. Current drain adds up over time, battery goes dead.
I thought the alternator could make up the difference. But 14.27 running volts, so alternator seems OK. autozone double-checked the alternator, said it is fine. Apparently, the way I drive, current draw wins out over alternator. So I'm using a battery cutoff switch until gets figured out.
I was at one point thinking the draw wouldn't kill the battery, because only 90 minutes @ 0.7 amps, not a huge amount. To verify not a weak battery, autozone tested the relatively new battery today, said it's fine.
I think the drain kills the battery as follows. I usually run local errands, and stop at several places. Every time the car stops, the 90 minute "clock" starts. Current drain adds up over time, battery goes dead.
I thought the alternator could make up the difference. But 14.27 running volts, so alternator seems OK. autozone double-checked the alternator, said it is fine. Apparently, the way I drive, current draw wins out over alternator. So I'm using a battery cutoff switch until gets figured out.
#10
No, my car does not have a "hands free link". But it's likely the cause is something like that. I will continue to look around. At least I have more or less verified the draw is not normal, which was the point of the post. Thanks to all. When I eventually figure it out, I'll post. I will probably buy that shop manual as suggested, I appreciate the link.
I was at one point thinking the draw wouldn't kill the battery, because only 90 minutes @ 0.7 amps, not a huge amount. To verify not a weak battery, autozone tested the relatively new battery today, said it's fine.
I think the drain kills the battery as follows. I usually run local errands, and stop at several places. Every time the car stops, the 90 minute "clock" starts. Current drain adds up over time, battery goes dead.
I thought the alternator could make up the difference. But 14.27 running volts, so alternator seems OK. autozone double-checked the alternator, said it is fine. Apparently, the way I drive, current draw wins out over alternator. So I'm using a battery cutoff switch until gets figured out.
I was at one point thinking the draw wouldn't kill the battery, because only 90 minutes @ 0.7 amps, not a huge amount. To verify not a weak battery, autozone tested the relatively new battery today, said it's fine.
I think the drain kills the battery as follows. I usually run local errands, and stop at several places. Every time the car stops, the 90 minute "clock" starts. Current drain adds up over time, battery goes dead.
I thought the alternator could make up the difference. But 14.27 running volts, so alternator seems OK. autozone double-checked the alternator, said it is fine. Apparently, the way I drive, current draw wins out over alternator. So I'm using a battery cutoff switch until gets figured out.
For the Hybrid, instead of using an alternator to maintain the 12 V battery, the electrical system uses a DC-DC converter.