Was it a used relay. At this point I think you need to check wiring if it's not the switch

 

New relay, and I started checking ecu connector b, both grounds have flow, and power constant is there. I am at a loss as to what to do next. I cleaned all the engine bay grounds, and whent threw the fuses agin with a test light on both sides of em.

 

When you turn the key there is no click from the relay, and as previously stated, the cel never comes on. I verified that the bulb is working.

 

Do you know how to test power from the distributor back. I would put the old PCM back in and test for power. You're not getting spark but getting power to the relay. Are you getting spark to the cap if not test backwards.

 

I will try that next, just got done trying to figure out the main relay pin out. I have constant 12v at pin 1(white with a green stripe AND blue stripe), black is ground (tested good) on pin 2, pin 3 is yellow with black stripe, and no response with key on or cranking, pin 5 is 12v with key in ON position(red with white stripe), pin 6 is 12v during cranking only(blue with orange stripe), pin 7 is black with yellow stripe and no response, pin 8 is green with yellow stripe, also no response.

 

Yes, distributor is receiving switched power, switch being the key in ON position. The plug to the distributor has one pin receiving switched power, no other power, even when cranking. After switch is in on position, the said pin to distributor is constant, no change during cranking.

 

Also just discovered that the red “security” light is not flashing when I lock the doors and close them. Would an ignition switch problem keep the ecu from coming on? And if so, how do I get around the immobilizer to trouble shoot it? Also do not have a green key symbol in dash at anytime.

 

Switch your #6 fuse with #8 under the hood for ****s and giggles

 

Does your car have an aftermarket security system, or just what came from the factory?

 

Just what came from the factory. I will try the fuse flip soon as the sun comes up.