If any one has the pin out for the main relay I think it would be helpful, I am attempting to chase the main relay harness, but don’t know what the wires go to or are for...

 

The main relay pins are numbered:

1 2 X 3
4 5 6 7

X does not have a wire in that spot.
1 grn/yel (gets power from pin 2 of the main relay, PCM pin A15 grounds this wire to trigger relay to send power to the fuel pump)
2 blu/orn (should have voltage when in park or clutch pedal pushed, key in start position, gets power from 7.5A #13 starter signal in driver's under dash fuse box)
3 black (should have continuity to ground).
4 wire color yellow? (Switched power This is the power from the relay to the fuel pump. Gets power from pin 5 of relay)
5 red/wht (switched power from key, fuse is 15A #1 fuse in driver's under dash fuse box)
6 yel/blk (get power from pin 7, when key is in II position. Send power to PCM pins B1 and B9.
7 wht/grn (power from 15A ACG fuse in engine bay fuse box)

 

Awesome, thank you for the info, checking into it now.

 

Ok, so turned key to II position, and was getting nothing on ecu pins B1 and/or B9, so I applied 12v to both of them with everything plugged in, and still no change. I don’t know what this means, other than it’s not working. Any ideas or suggestions on how I can figure out what’s wrong?

 

Just checked the ignition, no problems found. I’m out of ideas and have no clue what to do next.

 

Which pins gave you the correct reading, which pins did not?

 

the problem I found was that key in II position there was no power at ecu pins B1 and/or B9, so I applied power to both pins, and still no change.

 

When Pin 6 gets power, it also sends it to pin A1 to turn on the fuel pump.

From the wiring, if you back-probe pin 6 with everything connected, you should get 12V for about 2 seconds. This is for the fuel pump prime for about 2 seconds when the key is in the II position, and the check engine light turns on for about 2 seconds. Try this and let us know what you find.

For best practice, don't supply an unloaded 12V source to the PCM, because you can cause damage. Whenever dealing with a component directly wired to the PCM, the only testing method I'm confident using is the volt setting on my volt meter, and maybe a 12V test light with decent resistance.

I'm going to read through this thread again and post some suggestions.

 

You said the security light isn't working anymore, correct? Check that fuse #13 (7.5A) in the passenger's interior fuse box is getting 12V to each side of the fuse using a test light by touching the a tab on top of the fuse one at a time. Do the same for fuse 6 (20A) and fuse 11 (7.5A). The key probably should be in the II position when doing this test.