02' Accord F23a4 Stalls when Hot
#11
There is a site (techauto.awardspace) that has a lot of good info. and pictures; but, the site has been down for over two weeks. Here is another site for the repair of the main relay:
Relay Repair
The fuel injector relay is the same as the main relay. Your problem kind of sounds like something else. The trouble code would have really helped narrow down the problem though. Hopefully, if it does it again during your trip that an ECU reset can get you on your way again. Make sure all fluid level and tire air pressure are okay before your trip.
Relay Repair
The fuel injector relay is the same as the main relay. Your problem kind of sounds like something else. The trouble code would have really helped narrow down the problem though. Hopefully, if it does it again during your trip that an ECU reset can get you on your way again. Make sure all fluid level and tire air pressure are okay before your trip.
#12
I was planning on taking my car down to Durango tomorrow (6.5 hr drive) but I’m very worried about breaking down in the middle of bumfuk Colorado. I wish I could have read that code.
The main relay has been replaced, the ignition switch has been replaced, the ignitor has been replaced... that leave the coil, plugs and ecu...
The main relay has been replaced, the ignition switch has been replaced, the ignitor has been replaced... that leave the coil, plugs and ecu...
#13
There is a site (techauto.awardspace) that has a lot of good info. and pictures; but, the site has been down for over two weeks. Here is another site for the repair of the main relay:
Relay Repair
The fuel injector relay is the same as the main relay. Your problem kind of sounds like something else. The trouble code would have really helped narrow down the problem though. Hopefully, if it does it again during your trip that an ECU reset can get you on your way again. Make sure all fluid level and tire air pressure are okay before your trip.
Relay Repair
The fuel injector relay is the same as the main relay. Your problem kind of sounds like something else. The trouble code would have really helped narrow down the problem though. Hopefully, if it does it again during your trip that an ECU reset can get you on your way again. Make sure all fluid level and tire air pressure are okay before your trip.
I've scratched my durango trip. But I will be going up I-70 tomorrow (where I've had 2 hot stall outs) so we'll see what happens.
I hear ya on the code I would have loved to have pulled it... I was actually happy to see the CEL fire up when the problem started. I did check all fluids and everything when this happened. All was fine, i pumped the upper radiator hose to see if I could hear the thermostat click and couldn't... but the thermostat is only 1 year old, so I doubt thats the problem.
ahhh this is getting old quick, I love to work on my car but love it more when my car is working right.
#14
rough idle deal
Silver I hear you on that rough idle I encountered the same issue with my 02 accord cpe did a full tune up removed and pressured cleaned the injectors still the same code had a cel for cylinder 2 miss fire did a compression test only 90psi sad I know poured oil to see if it was the rings and no gain I'm not mixing fluids or losing and so best guest was either one of the valve is stuck slightly open or burnt exhaust valves
#15
Stalled 4 times today in 105 degree weather. Second time I pulled the distributor cap to let components cool. After reassembly and cooling I started to get underway and it missed on 2 of the 4 cyls on initial acceleration, I lifted waited and tried again and it was fine.
I stopped at autozone and replaced the rotor and cap. 30 Mins later I had another hot stall out. So im at square one, I have not had rough idle / limp mode reproduce. I feel some hesitation when accelerating to 75mph but its nothing that raises concern for me. Im thinking more about the Coil as that and the wires are the only items not replaced. I am also checking the work that my buddy did on the main relay. It is possible that to save money he just did a DIY fix on it... So I am looking for the main relay now to examine the board.
-Reed
I stopped at autozone and replaced the rotor and cap. 30 Mins later I had another hot stall out. So im at square one, I have not had rough idle / limp mode reproduce. I feel some hesitation when accelerating to 75mph but its nothing that raises concern for me. Im thinking more about the Coil as that and the wires are the only items not replaced. I am also checking the work that my buddy did on the main relay. It is possible that to save money he just did a DIY fix on it... So I am looking for the main relay now to examine the board.
-Reed
#16
This shows the location of the main relay for a 6th generation Accord V6. It may be the same location for the 4 cylinder.
DIY, Replacing Main Relay (AV6) - V6 Performance.net Forums
DIY, Replacing Main Relay (AV6) - V6 Performance.net Forums
#17
Thanks Redbul,
I pulled it out and I first noted that my "friendly mechanic" didnt remove the cover under the dash that houses this relay, I could see the screwdriver marks from where they pryed it out (I didn't even use a screwdriver to pop it out). Not a big deal as its in a funky spot but just something I noted.
Once I was able to examine it the relay looked fine to me, atleast at first glance. After looking at it more closely I can see a thumb print on the middle of the board (not mine) and there is one solder joint that I am particularly sckeptical about. I have pointed it out in these pictures.
You can clearly see a line of flux that spread away from this one. It also looks shiny and new the others look a but more dull (with exception of a couple that possibly were resoldered as well)
Here is a profile Picture. The other thing I noticed about this joint in question is that its profile is unlike the others on the board. The solder joints on the board that look older (less shiny) have the solder come to a peak (like looking at a mountain from the side). This one is bulbus and pillows out. Again I took a profile picture and pointed it out with the screwdriver. This is on the relay labled 4v on the board itself.
Thoughts?
Also To note; I did have adequate fuel pressure to the Regulator after the stall.
I pulled it out and I first noted that my "friendly mechanic" didnt remove the cover under the dash that houses this relay, I could see the screwdriver marks from where they pryed it out (I didn't even use a screwdriver to pop it out). Not a big deal as its in a funky spot but just something I noted.
Once I was able to examine it the relay looked fine to me, atleast at first glance. After looking at it more closely I can see a thumb print on the middle of the board (not mine) and there is one solder joint that I am particularly sckeptical about. I have pointed it out in these pictures.
You can clearly see a line of flux that spread away from this one. It also looks shiny and new the others look a but more dull (with exception of a couple that possibly were resoldered as well)
Here is a profile Picture. The other thing I noticed about this joint in question is that its profile is unlike the others on the board. The solder joints on the board that look older (less shiny) have the solder come to a peak (like looking at a mountain from the side). This one is bulbus and pillows out. Again I took a profile picture and pointed it out with the screwdriver. This is on the relay labled 4v on the board itself.
Thoughts?
Also To note; I did have adequate fuel pressure to the Regulator after the stall.
#18
Yep, looks like they try to retouch the solder joint. Whether that relay may or may not be causing any of your current issues, if it was me, I would retouch all the solder joints, not just that one. I like soldering though.
#19
Thanks Redbul,
I have learned more from your advice i wish the same could be said for the countless others on other forums. I think I might just get a new relay and stick it in. I'll test it in the hot and try to reproduce if it does then I'll just take the new relay out and return it, If not then volia!
I too love to solder but not when its 110 in my garage and im tired of messing with this crap haha.
Thanks again, I'll keep ya posted.
I have learned more from your advice i wish the same could be said for the countless others on other forums. I think I might just get a new relay and stick it in. I'll test it in the hot and try to reproduce if it does then I'll just take the new relay out and return it, If not then volia!
I too love to solder but not when its 110 in my garage and im tired of messing with this crap haha.
Thanks again, I'll keep ya posted.
Last edited by Silver6gen; 06-23-2012 at 11:00 PM.
#20
cuts out
First I WOULD GET RID OF THAT FUEL PUMP and put in a honda pump any other aftermkt. parts on this car? Thay gotta go also. Find a good driveabilty shop and pay for 1 hr. for a tech to hook up a scope and look into it may be money well spent