Also I thought maybe I was getting vapor lock, so when it stalled I removed the fuel cap but that didn't change much. I removed the fuel pressure regulator (which controlls the fuel return?) there was fuel coming out at the rail at that point, it continued until the pressure was relieved. I left the regulator slightly off the rail and clicked the key to the on position to charge the system and saw no additional fuel come out of the rail. idk what this means any ideas?

 

bump / anyone??

 

redbull got anymore ideas?!?! I had a new main relay and replaced the old one when it stalled, it didn't change anything

 

You checked and replaced all the usual suspects (e.g., igniter, coil, main relay, etc.). I am kind of at a loss for ideas right now.

 

I know it's fuel related but I don't know how to check the pressure. If I take off the fuel Pressure regulator it will spit gass out of the rail for like 5 minutes.... Is it vapor locking? When I do take the fuel regulator off it makes the problem more pronounced. It takes longer to get back on its feet. I don't think it's the PCM because I routed the ac to it for this drive and it still died. I am leaning towards the fuel pump but idk how to check it.

 

Autozone loans out fuel pressure testers. Lots of different fittings. On my Gen 5 it teed off the banjo bolt on the fuel filter outlet but I don't recollect how your Gen 6 is set up; I know their's no banjo bolt at the rail.

You've narrowed it down to a fuel problem. Getting a fuel pressure tester hooked up and using a DVM to check the various power points would be how I'd going about isolating the problem. I'd get a meter on the terminals of that aftermarket pump first.

 

Me, I'm poor. A few things I would/have done. Tap into the wire (only need the 12v side as ground should be easy) going to the pump. Wire in a small lamp and drive. If the lamp goes out then you know you lost power to the pump, if not....well.

You only need a small lamp, I've use a lighted rocker switch and only worried about the "lighted" side of it.

If the "light" goes off, well we can then move "it" to some other places - inputs/outputs of the main relay.

Again, just my two cents.....trust me, I'm playing with an issue on one of my 89's that is driving me CRAZY! Had it down to fuel, just like you. Wired in a light, the boy drove with it for six months - no issues ? I unhook the light, two months later it is acting up again.......arrr

 

Great advice! I will do just that! I havent looked in my haynes regarding the fuel pump. Does it have a wiring diagram or is there one online that I can use to see which wire to tap.

Thanks

 

Don't know about the haynes.....sad to say I bought the manual for the 6th gen from automanualsource (the sad part of this is that I have never owned a 6th gen - I paid my own money to help people ?, dang I need a life).....so far it has helped me and many other members solve issues.....so my point is, it is a good place to get a manual for your car. And for $22 download or $27 for a CD shipped....money well worth it.

There is a five pin connector to the pump. A row of three with a row of two under it. So look at the wire side of the connector like this- best I can do right now.

#1 - #2 - #3
--------------
#4 - #5

The #5 should be BLK/YEL and have 12v to ground. When the pump runs.......you can verify this in the 2~3 second "pump prime" when you turn the key from off to "on" or position II.

 

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I will probably pop for the manual.


So think about this. When it stalled out last at the side of the road I removed the Fuel Pressure Regulator off the rail. Obviously the rail spit gas out. Now here is what is strange to me. I had a cup to catch the gas sitting under the FPR hole on the rail and turned the car to the on (II) position and heard the fuel pump spin up. I expected to see fuel come out of the hole on the rail. But I saw little to no change at the FPR hole.

So does this mean that there is either a clog in the line or that the pump is having issues? Or does it mean jack. I understand it’s an unscientific test but logically it would seem that fuel should have been squirting out of that hole if the pump spins up?

Im just trying to wrap my head around what heat has to do with this. This is the only thing I can think of. The FPR is opened by vacuum (1-8% throttle) to return fuel to the tank, the fuel travels through the rail which gets hot and subsequently heats the fuel which returns to the tank hot. Over an hour or two the fuel in the tank is now quite warm and causes the problem then… Just unsure how or why.

I have noticed that yes it will stall out while driving but I can induce a stall when I know its reaching that point by dropping it into neutral and letting it Idle at freeway speeds (which would open the regulator all the way) it also happens when coming off a freeway and coming to a stop at a light, again 0% throttle = vacuum and FPR open to return gas.

If I remember correctly the return dump in the tank is very close if not directly over the pump housing….

I appreciate all the help that you guys are providing here it means a great deal to me.

Also how do I check my fuel pressure!!! Anyone?