The MAF is reading .4lbs/min at idle. The MAP is reading 28.4 not running then drops to 4.7 upon start. I have a pending code that keeps coming back. P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. Yes the wire colors on my MAP is what u described. I done a compression check today and got 135-150 in all 4 cylinders. Put new orings and inspected the fuel rail and injectors.

 

My TSX has a similar engine as your Accord. I connected my bluedriver and got 8-10 inHg at idle as well. I think that the vacuum reading is not your issue.

I'd recommend using the bluedriver to plot both your upstream and downstream O2 sensors. I'll connect to mine on my next errand to see what normal looks like as well.

 

I caint plot the two o2 sensors. For some reason this isn't supported on the 05 accord. Or am I doing something wrong? What was ure take on the catalyst code? Do u think my downstream o2 might be bad or is this coming from the aftermarket cat they installed? Does this have anything to do with my fuel trim?

 

I didn't drive my TSX yesterday, so I don't know bluedriver's output. I'll try this evening.

The O2 sensors affect fuel trim, so I wanted to see if you are getting a bad reading from one of them and that could be your root cause. The cheap aftermarket cat could also be setting a P0420.

Instead of throwing parts at the car, the bluedriver tool should help point you in the right direction.

 

I found out how to read these o2 sensors but this is new to me. Do these numbers look normal? This was at 2000rpm.

All these graphs are at idle with car at operating temp.

I did this later at night and it was quite. When i held the peddle steady at 2000rpm it felt like a miss going on. Not like a cylinder cutting completely out but not a good steady firing either. Maybe because the fuel is trimmed at negative 30.

 

Logged some bluedriver data on my TSX. I saved and attached the log as a csv file, so you can look at it in a spreadsheet. Didn't get a screenshot.

At idle, my secondary O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 2) stayed towards the high range (~0.8 V). It would dip to the low range when I accelerated quickly.

My primary (bank 1 sensor 1) had an equivalence ratio reading that stayed around 1. The mA reading went slightly positive and negative, so I think that is normal.

Hopefully, you have some of these sensor options under the blue folders for b1s1 and b1s2 on your list. It took me a bit to realize I needed to expand the blue lines for options on the O2 sensors.

 

Something looks off on bank 1 sensor 2 (the catalytic converter sensor). The sensor voltage range should be 0.1V to 0.9V. I see you are getting 1.2V as a max which is not correct.

The first thing to check is if the catalytic converter sensor was a generic sensor, where you have to splice in the old connector. That wire connects to the main harness under the passenger seat below the middle of the seat. You should have an opening in the carpet (maybe held together with a plastic clip) to get to the connector.



If you dig into the data and you are going far past 0.9V (mine got to a 0.953 max), then either you have a wiring issue, or the cat O2 sensor is junk. If you decide to replace the cat O2 sensor, get a denso sensor. I'm not sure if your car has California emissions. My TSX takes part number 234-4363 that is the non-California emissions, or 234-4797 (California emissions).

You may want to call the customer service at densoaftermarket.com to make sure you get the proper sensor for your car.

 

I think u seen my data wrong. Sensor 2 never got above .845 which sounds high reguardless until u said ures got that high too. I know senor 1 is a new denso but I'll have to look see what sensor 2 is.
I believe I will pull the valve cover this weekend and inspect the valve train and vtech componets. After that all I'll have left unchecked is the evap componets.
On another note since u mentioned ure car. I have a 6sp manual from an Acura K24 ready to install as soon as I get this engine bug fixed. Any advise or warnings on this?