Have an 01 Accord.
Recently did a Timing belt job.
I mention this because even before I completed the job I had to put the valve cover, ps/air, belts, and engine mount back on (because at the time I couldn't remove the stubbon Crank pulley bolt till a later date).
Shortly after, the above code showed up.
Looked at any area that I was working around but can't find any lose hoses/connections. Also applied 12v to the Purge solenoid at the
Canister. It activates. Should there be power at the molex connection when the ignition is on or is one lead sunk to gnd. as there is no power at the connector?

Thanks,

 

Try using the search functon. Look for "P1457"
I found this thread that look slike it should help: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ighlight=P1457

 

I'm pretty sure there should be battery voltage always (whenever the key is ON). The ECU switches the ground side of the circuit. That's Honda's traditional way of doing things.

If you don't have battery voltage there, you may want to check the same at any other solenoid around the engine. The one exception I can think of is the VTEC solenoid. That one is grounded through it's mounting bolts, and has only 1 wire.

The remaining solenoids in the EVAP canister system are around the canister. Which is located underneath the car, roughly below the left-rear seat.

 

Thanks.
Actually I mean't to say I was checking the Vent valve power connector at the Canister.
I will check for battery voltage as you described.
Once I find the hot terminal I'll check the other terminal (gnd) to see if the ECM switches to gnd.

I still can help but think it was something I did during the initial timing belt
work... Initially I did not disconnect the battery when I removed the grounding engine mount strap. Do you think that could've affected the PCM?
Initially I got 3 codes (two evap and one AT abnormal ??) after attemping the belt job the first go around.

 

So did you clear the codes & now only P1457 comes up?

One solenoid valve in that system is the purge valve, up in the engine compartment. If you're looking for a plausible scenario where you left something disconnected, it might be THAT one. I think it's actually on the firewall, back behind the intake manifold.

 

When I checked it before 1457 was the only code activated.
However, this morning I had the code reader connected while driving in and saw the original 3 codes activated (see below).

P0700 Transmission Control System
P1739 automatic trans-axle concerns

These were the 3 that came on shortly after the first attempt at the timing belt job.
At that time the only thing I did was loosen the valve cover, remove the PS & and Alt. belts, drain the coolant, remove the engine mount and place a Jack under the oil pan and slightly support the engine in preparation for the T belt replacement. When I realized I couldn't remove the Crank Pulley bolt (at that time) with an 1/2" Impact gun, I then put everything back together till I got a 3/4" gun...

No signs of the car running poorly ( at this time)...

Strange...

 

Well, I won't pretend to know much about automatic trannys, so I'll stick to P1457.

If it's related, the only thing I can think of is the EVAP purge valve since it's located in the engine compartment. Check that it operates.

If it's just a coincidence, one of the most common failures is the EVAP vent-shut valve. It's located on the outboard end of the EVAP canister. Unplug it & provide power directly from a battery. Long jumper wires, or remove the valve & carry it to the engine compartment.

When I got that code, I checked a couple valves and found that the vent-shut valve would not even click with battery voltage. New valve fixed it.

I'll try to find a long write-up that I did (it was a long time ago).

 

Thanks Jim,

I previously did connect an external 12V supply to the canister vent valve.
It does click.
I'll keep troubleshooting...

 

In my case the valve was corroded badly & didn't click. It's possible yours clicks but doesn't really work. Use a MityVac or something to verify the valve actually opens & closes when it clicks.

That code actually means the canister & associated hoses & stuff is not airtight like it should be. Possibilities can include vacuum hoses disconnected from their proper places. Or even a crack in the canister itself.

Potentially the most troublesome possibility is a bad fuel tank pressure sensor. That's used to measure whether the tank & EVAP canister are airtight. If that sensor's bad, you have to drop the fuel tank.

 

I just dug up an old post of mine & copied it into the DIY section for you.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...d.php?p=180393